My V8 started getting a bit hot last year. The viscous fan would come on when driving at 50MPH on my way home. As I was about to go on holiday I replaced the thermostat and housing, new viscous fan, new expansion tank and new radiator. This cured the problem. Not sure which bit it was but it now runs fine and does not get very hot at all. On a long run the temp needle sits just below half way and there is no viscous fan noise.
I think the viscous fans can deteriorate. Although mine was working it was kicking in when it shouldn't. I also noticed a very tiny leak on the radiator. Hence replacing the whole lot.
HTH
Ivan
Ivan, thanks for your input. The fans do seem to get veryyyy loud once it start to overheat. Is that what you had? I'll be looking into it as others have also recommended here.
I am pretty certain my viscous fan had started to give up the ghost. These fans are both mechanical (viscous) and electrical. I am sure that the electrical side had started playing up hence it coming on when it really shouldn't have. When it did come on the temp needle used to drop to about 1/4 of the way up. Which meant the engine was running colder than it should have.
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
I haven't read all of the replies, but it sounds like water pump to me.
Some water pumps have plastic impellers which come off.
22nd Feb 2020 10:50 am
Discoveringcomfort
Member Since: 16 Sep 2015
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 637
Bleeding is important on the V8, if not done correctly the heater will be cold and temp will go off the gauge.
Ensure it is bled with the heater on max heat and with enough revs to pump the water around once the thermostat has opened.Series 1 V8
Series 2 Hibrid V8
Discovery 3 HSE V8
22nd Feb 2020 2:15 pm
Nakierza
Member Since: 21 Mar 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 36
Hello all,
I really appreciate all of the replies. I decided to try and bleed it. I actually let it idle until it overheated yesterday, and it did so for 30 minutes. After this, I noticed that the check engine light was on, and with my IDD Tool, it read this:
P0171-00 (AA) System too lean (bank 1)
P0174-00 (AA) System too lean (bank 2)
I searched the code online, and it seems to have to do with air in the system. Today, I bled it, and was able to bleed air out for 70 minutes straight, before the temp shot straight up. The radiator fan would blow on and off after 30 minutes, but never at full capacity. I decided to turn it off at the 70 minute mark, I let it sit for 5 minutes, and tried to turn the car on but it really struggled and wasn't able to turn on so I took the key out. I am now letting it sit for an hour before I try to bleed it again. If bleeding it doesn't work, I guess I will start looking into the water pump, although based off of other forum posts, it doesn't seem like it's easy to diagnose if its the pump?
Cheers!
23rd Feb 2020 9:12 pm
Nakierza
Member Since: 21 Mar 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 36
Ivan wrote:
Nakierza wrote:
Ivan wrote:
My V8 started getting a bit hot last year. The viscous fan would come on when driving at 50MPH on my way home. As I was about to go on holiday I replaced the thermostat and housing, new viscous fan, new expansion tank and new radiator. This cured the problem. Not sure which bit it was but it now runs fine and does not get very hot at all. On a long run the temp needle sits just below half way and there is no viscous fan noise.
I think the viscous fans can deteriorate. Although mine was working it was kicking in when it shouldn't. I also noticed a very tiny leak on the radiator. Hence replacing the whole lot.
HTH
Ivan
Ivan, thanks for your input. The fans do seem to get veryyyy loud once it start to overheat. Is that what you had? I'll be looking into it as others have also recommended here.
I am pretty certain my viscous fan had started to give up the ghost. These fans are both mechanical (viscous) and electrical. I am sure that the electrical side had started playing up hence it coming on when it really shouldn't have. When it did come on the temp needle used to drop to about 1/4 of the way up. Which meant the engine was running colder than it should have.
HTH
Ivan
Hi Ivan. I do not recall my temp needle dropping when the fan turns on, so I think its OK. Hopefully.
23rd Feb 2020 9:13 pm
Nakierza
Member Since: 21 Mar 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 36
sutty2006 wrote:
Best way to check for circulation is to remove a coolant pipe and start the engine, if coolant rushes out the pump is working. Obviously do this when cold. You may loose a bit of coolant too.
Sutty, I took the pipe on the left of the radiator out before I started the engine and no coolant rushed out. Is this a pipe to do that on? I hooked it back up and it really did seem with feeling it that it was circulating while I ran it for 70 minutes. I was also hearing a loud pop sound coming from that pipe and it seemed like air was trapped in it after feeling it.
23rd Feb 2020 9:16 pm
Nakierza
Member Since: 21 Mar 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 36
Update, I checked on the LR3 today and noticed that the coolant take was WAY below where it was (used to be over fill line). I am guessing that I had a LOT of air in it, and that was my actual level of coolant? I've filled it back up with distilled water. I drove it today and it still overheated, but after a minute at idle it went back to the middle temp.
26th Feb 2020 3:40 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8073
You will never get the air out running at tick over, you need to run at 2/3000rpm for at least 2 minutes, Bleed the system then do it again, distilled water in the rad is pointless.
Have you done the head gasket test yet by filling the system and watching for bubbles rising?
Get a infra-red remote thermometer, you can check temperatures throughout the system To see if you have a blockage or pump, thermostat not operating properly, my money is on a head gasket-keep a check on the oil, level And colour.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
26th Feb 2020 9:31 am
ajmacfarlane
Member Since: 12 Dec 2016
Location: Maidenhead
Posts: 132
Nakierza wrote:
Update, I checked on the LR3 today and noticed that the coolant take was WAY below where it was (used to be over fill line). I am guessing that I had a LOT of air in it, and that was my actual level of coolant? I've filled it back up with distilled water. I drove it today and it still overheated, but after a minute at idle it went back to the middle temp.
Sounds like you have a shed load of trapped air in the system. Make sure your heater is turned to max and full fan and just keep bleeding. It's basically a case of bleeding, revving at min 2500 revs for 2 mins, bleed, top up, rev, etc etc. It will take ages to get all the air out but sounds like you're on the right track to me.
One extra thing to remember is to also bleed the air out via the bleeder value located under the engine cover (May be in different location on V8 compared to V6). Check the forum and google images for bleeder value locations as there's a second not just on the coolant expansion bottle.
26th Feb 2020 11:22 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8073
I’d put this in the WiKi if I knew how
It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
26th Feb 2020 9:18 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Bleeder location
On my 2005MY the bleeder is just off the thermostat housing on a smaller diameter hose. I think about 1/2". The thermostat housing T's off to this house. There should be a small Tee with a nut on the top. Under this nut is a small gasket with a hole in it so when you loosen the nut the washer/gasket gets loose and allows air to come out. I would take the nut off and see that this washer/gasket is there, This could be where the air is getting in possibly. Just a guess here but when I flushed and changed my thermostat, thermo housing etc. I only got a little air out of mine, so little that I thought that it was something that really was not critical, but it is as I read later on after changing things out.
Good luck also if this Tee is plastic I would replace with the metal one that is available. I did that when I did the other items as well.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
27th Feb 2020 11:58 pm
Nakierza
Member Since: 21 Mar 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 36
Hi all,
I thought I would go ahead and update everyone so that maybe this'll help others in the future. My issue ended up being either the water pump or my radiator. I actually broke a piece on the radiator and decided to get both replaced. I bought a new radiator and water pump (ACDELCO) and had a local mechanic replace it. With parts and labor, ended up costing around $750 (400 labor 350 parts).
I've driven it for 60 miles now, from 30mph for a couple miles to even 70mph with no issues with overheating! Now onto tackling the transmission issues
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