Member Since: 13 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 585
Forever hopeful is the right attitude! Pat is a genius so I look forward to the next update once you have spoken to him. Keep us updated!
6th Jan 2021 12:56 am
RATA1
Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353
There is a FPLA 9G768 AC on eBay at the moment. £299
LAND RANGE ROVER JAGUAR ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL SENSOR FPLA9G768AC https://ebay.us/pM04W8
If anyone wants one. I have nothing do do with it or the seller
Sold now.In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.
2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2
6th Jan 2021 12:38 pm
RATA1
Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353
mjom89 wrote:
Forever hopeful is the right attitude! Pat is a genius so I look forward to the next update once you have spoken to him. Keep us updated!
Emailed Pat and he is a bit busy at the moment as anyone would be coming back to a bulging inbox!
The FW is the only FW there is for the radar unit which I already knew.
I did get another radar unit (FPLA) that arrived today and want to try that to elliminate/prove the HW I have but waiting to know if I can use the FW file I have already for it or I need a new one from GAP.
So far no next steps from GAP other than check CCF which I have done - as well as different combos about a dozen times.
I asked about BCM FW upgrade and interworking with other "older" modules and Pat said he will look into options when he is less busy, so maybe 2 weeks.
I have some question about the BCM upgrade/rollback that he didn't answer so I will ask them on the "general" forum as I know a few people have lots of experience in that.
In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.
2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2
7th Jan 2021 8:38 pm
RATA1
Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353
Hello.
I have today proved that my cables are OK and my radar unit is good as I swapped the radar with an FPLA and flashed it and I still get the same issue on my temp loom.
It could be that both radar units are defective and both my permanent and temp cabling looms are bad which is unlikely.
So been playing with the CCF settings as Pat suggested (and testing my Battery Support Unit too as it was over an hour) and it either makes things worse as things start to complain like the engine or the ABS modules. Currently it is back at what the 2016 should be.
Apart from one thing I have noticed that nobody has mentioned is that I get an "LSB" menu item pop up that wants me to select a tyre size. When I do it makes no difference as it actually never takes it. Do you "2016 boys" get this? It is like it toggles when I select anything to do with adaptive.
Click image to enlarge
So I am at a dead end. Pat is too busy currently and I have done all that he suggested anyway so it is either a secret "yet to be discovered" CCF setting for older cars or the BCM isn't compatible. I have learned that the BCM cannot easily be swapped for a test unit to try as it is security coded so it will be a in-situ FW upgrade if that is what is required
I'll post my photos of what I did to get the wiring in so if you feel brave on a pre 2015 car you can try it on yours. Maybe you will have success and we can compare ECU FW and config
Once you have the FW on your IID tool you can flash another and not need to spend another £25. Whether my spare radar will work in yours without flashing with your VIN in, I don't know but it will be for sale at some point - either on its own or as a pair!
Another thing, when you turn on the ignition and the car does system checks do you get the old green cruise light on the dash, just the new 2 x adaptive ones or all three? I just get the new two and the old green cruise like a speedo is no longer there.In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.
2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2
9th Jan 2021 8:46 pm
RATA1
Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353
So here are some photos and some brief words on how I got the cables in continuing from my earlier post where I put the IGN wire through and connected the pin to the CJB/BCM connector.
** THIS IS IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE CABLE FITTED FOR THE RADAR - MOST LIKELY A PRE 2016. SO FAR I HAVE HAD NO SUCCESS IN SETTING MINE UP IN THE CCF SO NO GUARANTEES THIS WILL WORK FOR YOU. IF IT DOES LET US KNOW HOW!! **
Disconnect the battery and find the cables you ran already from the IGN and BATT fuses. I tucked mine in the side of the battery
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I ran my cables in the plastic cable tray that is at the rear of the engine bay. Not sure how that cam off so I used some screwdrivers to prise it open after removing the cover.
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You can see the two cables ready to be pulled through. I used a bit of net curtain wire. Took a few goes but got there in the end. Bit of cable lube to help.
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Then tape up the other end and gently pull through.
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and the other side.
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Then feed them along with the others.
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Tidy it up.
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And you should have a nice big hank of cable for the next bit.
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So the next bit was a bit awkward as you need to take the SS battery out, the alarm and bracket to get at the TCCM module as this is where you are going to get the HS CAN and GND. Blue connector C3029.
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A magnetic pickup tool will be helpful here as well as small hands!
You need to get to the BLUE connector as you need to make up a Y loom (or cut it which in my opinion is a bad idea as there is no room to splice).
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Wider shot of it out of the TCCM waiting for the Y loom.
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You can get the connectors and correct cables (colour/thickness) from Martin. Copy the pins from the blue connector and don't forget to crimp the Y on the same connector
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connect and tidy.
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Now you will have all 5 cables ready to get through the rubber grommet to the wheel arch.
Take the wheel arch liner off for the next bit. The problem I had was I couldn't get it in the loom already going through and didn't want to remove the SS battery breather and use that tube. So to keep the water tight seal I used another bit of tube and self-amalgamating tape. Problem was getting the bendy tube through a small hole in the rubber.
Fix was....
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Cut the end off a calking nozzle, coat it in lube
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and shove it in, feeding the tube in, then remove the nozzle to create a pretty good seal.
Then feed the 5 cables in that from above like so (use a pull wire from below):
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And connect the Y loom, re-fit the alarm bracket (a sod) and SS battery and tidy it up.
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Once you have tied up all you need in the TCCM area, tape up the tube with self -amalgamating tape and dress it along the existing loom.
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Looks like my earth strap might need attention soon...
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Now feed the cables into some tubing and present to the front of the car. (out of sync photo )
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I used two bits of tubing as I didn't have any bigger and it was a tight fit in the stuff I had for the length I needed. Ready for the connector - leave this fun part for the end.
If you have a proper bracket like I got, I had to cut my deflector to fit it - there is a "cut here" marking on it which suggests it was going to be an option on my 2014MY.
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Fit the bracket and level the radar. The holes in the cross member are not threaded, but it's aluminium, so I just got some pan head M6x20 screws from Screwfix and used them to cut a thread. You only need about 10mm but it was Christmas Eve and it was all I could get so I cut 10mm off.
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Make the electrical connection. It was Christmas Eve, very cold and this was particularly tricky getting the crimps in the housing with numb fingers!
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Nearly done. Ready to fit the bumper back on but it wouldn't fit!
Needed to cut a bigger hole in my bumper to accommodate the bracket
Again there were some "cut here" lines on my bumper too. But I only had a hacksaw not a Dremel as Father Christmas hadn't been yet. And actually forgot me anyway.
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And that's it.
Refitted the arch liner and the bumper etc. a few days later.
A lot of work really and given mine doesn't actually work yet I am a bit peeved to say the least.
Still I am sure it is just a software problem and I am sure Pat@GAP can fix it.
I wish I had attempted to calibrate the radar on my test loom prior to all this as I would not have done it until it was working, cable tied on the grille!!!
Also, I wish my radar unit I bought had a bracket like the rest of yours as it would have been easier there too.
Still live and learn and hopefully this will help you.In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.
2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2
Last edited by RATA1 on 10th Jan 2021 1:36 pm. Edited 1 time in total
9th Jan 2021 10:36 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8101
Very impressive job and a happy new year, I just hope and pray you can get it to work in the end after all the effort you have put into it, dibs on the spare unit when you succeed.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
9th Jan 2021 11:33 pm
mjom89
Member Since: 13 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 585
You deserve this to work after the effort you have put in.
I never spotted this LSB menu. Is it very obvious? It sounds like when you change one setting it pops up straight away?
I will also check the light start up sequence for you.
Off topic, the y adapter you made for the CAN. I think I can use this idea to tap into CAN for my CANM8
10th Jan 2021 12:12 am
RATA1
Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353
Hmm. CANM8 was new to me so I had a Google. Nice devices. I guess you want it for spots to pick up the main beam?
You could get closer to the battery and fuse box and pick up the CAN that side using one of their CANM8 CANNECT CONTACTLESS READER devices and just use a few piggy back fuse connectors for its power and the spot power? Nice and removable and arguably easier than getting to the TCCM and fiddling with the loom?
Already had me thinking I could use one of those to detect low speed and electronically toggle the start stop button as I hate it that much! might drop them an email to see if they can do a custom one that drives an output high or low if speed < 2mph rather than pulse. I’ll add it to my list!In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.
2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2
10th Jan 2021 11:34 am
dgardel
Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: Greater Venice
Posts: 2025
RATA1, the blue connector, is the connector for? TCCM?Discovery 5 tdv6 HSE Corris Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition IID Pro MV License
10th Jan 2021 12:33 pm
RATA1
Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353
dgardel wrote:
RATA1, the blue connector, is the connector for? TCCM?
Yes, TCCM C3029 - 5 pin as below image. I have updated the post above to include it now.
You could use C1857 as the HS CAN is there too, but the blue had fewer connections
Click image to enlarge
Are you going to try on your XXV? Given you have an IID pro you could flash your BCM to FH22-14xxxx and let me know if that makes it work In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.
2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2
10th Jan 2021 1:26 pm
dgardel
Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: Greater Venice
Posts: 2025
Thank you RATA.
One more question, where I can buy the blue male and female connectors for build the Y splitting cable?Discovery 5 tdv6 HSE Corris Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition IID Pro MV License
10th Jan 2021 1:39 pm
RATA1
Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353
Martin can supply them and everything else you need. He is watching this thread I think but drop him a PM.
As you are doing a pre 2015 car I suggest you make a loom up like this one I made:
Click image to enlarge
and connect to the ODB port with a Y so you can use the IID tool as well. That way you can fiddle with the CCF without the effort of pulling the car apart to be where I am currently - as in not working. I only used it to verify the radar would take the flash and didn't try the calibration (as thought it would be ok if I calibrated it once after I fitted it all) and I wish I had.
Cheers.In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.
2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2
10th Jan 2021 2:27 pm
James1974
Member Since: 23 Nov 2017
Location: Stevenage
Posts: 990
Hi mate I tried this for months last year and never got any further than your are
At now pat tried everything but we never solved it always comes
U.K. with that fault code and could never get it into calibration modeDisco 3 gone but not forGotten
Welcome disco 4
Flappy paddles working from gap
Heated steering wheel done
Bluetooth iPod connection done
Xeon lights (facelift) done
Afs retrofit done
Logic 7 retrofit done
Armrest fridge
Facelift rear lights
Retrofit High beam assist done
Genuine 22” Range Rover sport alloys
Retrofit acc (gave up not possible)
retrofit tpms done
Retrofit Range Rover lcd digital dash. Done
Retrofit blind spot assist done
11th Jan 2021 9:42 pm
RATA1
Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353
Hello. Was that on your 2010 D4?
Do you have your notes or the parameters you tried? Did you flash the BCM and what FW were you running on it?
Cheers.In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.
2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2
11th Jan 2021 10:06 pm
James1974
Member Since: 23 Nov 2017
Location: Stevenage
Posts: 990
Caen really remember now never flashed the bcm no tried loads of different ccf settings worked on it for months gave up in the endDisco 3 gone but not forGotten
Welcome disco 4
Flappy paddles working from gap
Heated steering wheel done
Bluetooth iPod connection done
Xeon lights (facelift) done
Afs retrofit done
Logic 7 retrofit done
Armrest fridge
Facelift rear lights
Retrofit High beam assist done
Genuine 22” Range Rover sport alloys
Retrofit acc (gave up not possible)
retrofit tpms done
Retrofit Range Rover lcd digital dash. Done
Retrofit blind spot assist done
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might drop them an email to see if they can do a custom one that drives an output high or low if speed < 2mph rather than pulse. I’ll add it to my list!
