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Adding TerraFirma rock sliders
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pagoda
 


Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923

Canada 2016 LR4 3.0 SDV6 Landmark LE Auto Yulong WhiteLR4
Adding TerraFirma rock sliders

I have a MY16 Landmark SDV6, which came with side steps as standard (they all do in the US from some point on). I hate them; we're all tall and the things just hit the back of our calves. New plastic sill covers here were almost $300 from LR so decided to get some rock sliders and bought TerraFirma ones from Rimmer Bros (and paid $155 shipping, but US alternatives were vastly more).

Thanks to all those here who've offered advice on rock sliders. I finally started to fit them today.

Question for those who've fitted them: (how) did you fill the gap between the bottom door seal and the sliders? (See photo). The gap is pretty large at about an inch or so and although there's the weather seal on the door I'd like to close it as the amount of crap and salt on the roads here in the winter is unreal.

Anyway, here's what I did if useful for others:

Prep: I sprayed the inside/mating faces with truck bed liner and sprayed the rock slider bars with the same after masking. I will use them as steps to adjust stuff on the roof and truck bed liner offers grip. I looked at grip tape but the reviews were pretty average as it seemed to peel. It's hot here in the summer, cold in the winter and the car is out a lot.

Sills: I sprayed cavity wax (a lot) into the sills and into the innerds of the rock sliders then taped up all holes that weren't receiving a bolt. I used 3M Cavity Wax Plus and I really like it. Very fine mist; sticks like Censored and the applicators (if pricey) are VERY good. I also sprayed cavity wax on the exterior of the sills.

Rear air: I have rear air. The hoses/lines will interfere with the fit. I had to remove the two rear most brackets securing the lines and reverse them. I had fitted the sliders before I realised that the brackets would prevent me fitting the sliders. Rolling Eyes They had to come off again; reverse the brackets, and refit.

I then realised that I had forgotten to put tape over the holes in the rock sliders so they had to come off AGAIN.

Because I had the wheel off I also used the opportunity to fit front mud guards (Defender ones, etc - my sincere thanks to Kelvo for his pics). You can see the unfinished bolt in one of the pics; I will spray it black!!!)

One side done. Probably took about 4 hours going slowly with the usual errors and doing the mudguard, which took a lot of the time to figure. Tomorrow should go quicker. Would appreciate thoughts on how to close the big gap that's now there/ what people have used. Thanks.

Before:



After:



Mind the gap:





The brackets if you have rear AC:

 PAGODA  
Post #219695028th Dec 2020 11:53 pm
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Wills
 


Member Since: 17 May 2016
Location: Exeter
Posts: 62

United Kingdom 2012 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 XS Auto Orkney GreyDiscovery 4

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Large-Car-Rubbe...4d9027ebee

I (following the advice of some clever chap on here - can't remember who) purchased enough of this to line the tops of the sliders with (before fitting) which creates a good seal with the doors!
  
Post #219740630th Dec 2020 1:29 pm
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pagoda
 


Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923

Canada 2016 LR4 3.0 SDV6 Landmark LE Auto Yulong WhiteLR4

Thanks. I think I've found a solution here that doesn't involve having to remove them again (thank God).

More generally, if you have rear air and purchase the TF sliders, you WILL have to cut about 14" of steel off the side where the fixed (I assume heating) aluminium lines run to the rear of the vehicle. That was fun.
 PAGODA  
Post #219741730th Dec 2020 2:28 pm
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lynalldiscovery
 


Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Metropolis LE Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

Alloy lines are the a/c pipes, and the ones on the other side of the car are the heater lines.
Good tip is to daub some grease on the exposed alloy line connectors and just under where the pipe insulation ends.
  
Post #219745130th Dec 2020 4:31 pm
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pagoda
 


Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923

Canada 2016 LR4 3.0 SDV6 Landmark LE Auto Yulong WhiteLR4

Thanks. Either way they're a PITA, but done now. Hopefully that info helps someone if they're fitting these. You will need an angle grinder to remove the excess material.

Why the grease, may I ask? Is this from a preventative maint point of view?
 PAGODA  
Post #219745430th Dec 2020 4:33 pm
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