Member Since: 05 Apr 2006
Location: leamington spa
Posts: 121
Air susp solenoid block connections
I'm confused. LR online docs show the inlet at the end of the block, but common sense would say it is the centre (yellow) line, and the two end lines ( black) go to the repective struts. Am I correct?
18th Jan 2021 1:52 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
A yellow or colour denotes a strut / side I think.
If u look at the compressor area u will see black.
24th Jan 2021 5:56 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Drew this out when I done mine , hope it also helps on top of the other posts
Click image to enlarge
24th Jan 2021 9:53 am
john ryan
Member Since: 05 Apr 2006
Location: leamington spa
Posts: 121
Very helpful. Thank you all. My D3 drops at the front only with F26 removed. It drops evenly, which puzzles me because the corner valves should close off each strut independently, and it seems odd to get two leaks at the same time. It could be an internal leak in the solenoid block (cross over valve) but soap solution shows nothing external- so I am puzzled about where the air is going. I have new seals in the solenoid block, and removed the electrical connector to obviate spurious signals opening the valves. I'll keep hunting when the weather warms up. Ideas welcome.
24th Jan 2021 10:40 pm
pjm-84
Member Since: 04 Oct 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2432
I changed both front and rear valve blocks recently and the car no longer drops. Even though the blocks were rebuilt the car dropped on 3 corners even with new structs on the front. Did a leak test and nothing so decided to replace the blocks.
I'm still coming to terms with the new appearance!
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