Member Since: 24 Nov 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 74
Air suspension issues - low gallery pressure - FIXED
Hi all,
I'm on my 2nd Disco3, 4th Land Rover and this forum has been absolutely brilliant over the years. I have always solved issues using the search function but it's finally time to post as I'm now stumped.
Any help would mean a lot - my MOT has lapsed and the car is off the road until I resolve this.
Summary of situation:
I have an Icarsoft LR2 for fault codes/live data
I have fitted a new compressor
Fitted new compressor relay
Fitted new compressor pipe kit
Symtoms:
Orange suspension light comes on after 20-30 seconds of running engine ' Normal ride height only' on dash
Gallery pressure does not exceed 1050kpa under any circumstance
Car will go up and down but display 'vehicle raising slowly' message
I also have EPB fault which I am treating as separate issue (maybe incorrectly so)
C1A20 - Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir (and EPB/comms codes)
Symptoms and gallery pressure are exactly the same as before I replaced above parts
Observations:
Car does not lower when parked for long periods
No air leak noises or dropping corners
Car handles like a boat as soon as orange suspension light shows - gallery pressure drops to 90kpa
New compressor seems to be working well but runs for long periods then displays 'vehicle will raise when system cooled' message, reaches 130 deg.
If anyone can suggest my next move, any particular live data feeds to read or physical parts to inspect it would be hugely appreciated.
Thanks,
Stuart
Last edited by Stu_rs on 24th Nov 2018 1:18 pm. Edited 1 time in total
7th Nov 2018 10:59 am
Stu_rs
Member Since: 24 Nov 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 74
I've done some further reading and have just checked some more data streams:
Reservoir valve current: sits at 0 with no command and increases to 1.14v (fluctuating to 3v every minute or so)
Front cross valve: 0v at all times
Rear cross valve: 0v at all times
It struck me that the reservoir value is activated when a raise command is given and the compressor is doing all the work. I also noticed that when the car stops raising the reservoir valve current drops to zero and the gallery pressure drops very quickly, so I will remove the reservoir and properly inspect/test tomorrow for leaks.
Any input welcome but I will continue to update my findings and (hopefully) progress for future benefit
9th Nov 2018 12:14 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
It seems you're going in the right direction, once the reservoir has been filled you can "sometimes" hear any leak whilst crouching beside the L/H front passenger door, engine off obviously.
Check for leaks at the reservoir valve block and associated lines too.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
9th Nov 2018 1:48 am
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1780
What made you change the compressor? Was it new or did you refurbish it?
Have you checked the heights of all wheel centre's to the wheel arch?
The height sensor connections at each wheel can also give these symptoms if broken or dirty
9th Nov 2018 4:15 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Going by the surface rust on my 06 I would check or replace the air tank.
9th Nov 2018 5:23 am
Stu_rs
Member Since: 24 Nov 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 74
PROFSR G - Thanks, I'll remove the tank this morning and try and fill it to 35bar with my air compressor under water and see what happens. I'll also inspect the valve block whilst I'm under there.
Globetrotter448 - When I first started getting intermittent suspension issues I bought and fitted a rebuild kit on my original compressor. I discovered that the exhaust valve on the compressor was in a real mess, the thread was gone, so I re cut the thread and rebuilt that too but was never sure it would perform as new afterwards, so I bought a new compressor to eliminate that and for piece of mind for the next 2+ years.
I'll start at the reservoir tank and if that checks out I'll take some measurements from the wheel centres and read up on the height sensors
Lynalldiscovery - I have a fair amount of surface rust on the visible side of reservoir tank on my 06 too but I soapy water tested it before and can't see/hear anything from the underside. I understand it's normally the top that goes so I'll revisit that today.
Thanks guys much appreciated!
9th Nov 2018 10:21 am
Stu_rs
Member Since: 24 Nov 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 74
Can anyone recommend how to pressure test the lines themselves that run from the reservoir valve block to the front valve block? I've seen it mentioned and found to solve the issue with other members but am not sure of the testing procedure/tools required. I have a compressor and pressure gauge but would guess I need additional airline fixings etc.
An update after a couple of hours spent investigating;
The reservoir tank does not seem to be leaking, it is corroded on the outside and the brass plug was full (and I mean full) of bright green gunk, which I conclude to be oxidisation and evidence of moisture in the tank.
I have checked for leaks on the reservoir valve block and found none, I have also removed it from the car and opened it up, which all looks fine.
I have removed the Drivers front wheel & arch liner, checked the front valve block for leaks and found none, and removed it from the car. I did find white dusty residue in the 2 valves at each end which I have subsequently cleaned - I can't imagine with is causing me to be 800kpa below the specified pressure but it is evidence of the previous compressor degrading
I have ordered a valve block seal kit from eBay which is due to arrive on Tuesday, so I'll fit that for good measure and give the rear valve block the same inspection and treatment for good measure.
I have been reading up on the height sensor connections which I will inspect/test too.
17th Nov 2018 1:23 pm
Stu_rs
Member Since: 24 Nov 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 74
I found this on the rear valve block supply line, about 4 inches from the rear valve block...
Fingers crossed we've found the culprit - 6mm airline repair kit ordered!
22nd Nov 2018 11:11 am
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Is that a length of garden hose and two jubilee clips?
Mmmmm,............nice repair. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
22nd Nov 2018 11:44 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
Wow looks like it, I'm amazed it held the pressure at all, a condom would have done a better job!
Should be included in "Tips and Tricks", or perhaps a new thread Dumb and Dumber
Well done on finding it though.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
22nd Nov 2018 2:30 pm
Stu_rs
Member Since: 24 Nov 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 74
To be fair to the master mechanic who did the previous repair they did cover the whole thing in silicon sealant.
I’ll be eating my words if I replace the air line and it’s still the same!
I’ve fitted the valve block o ring kit on all 3 valve blocks whilst I’m waiting for the replacement air line to arrive in the post and for anyone reading this via search function in the distant future I’d recommend getting straight under the front drivers side and rear passenger side wheel arches before buying any parts, as you then have access to more or less the whole system.
I’ll update again when I’ve replaced the suspect line...
22nd Nov 2018 4:12 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1780
Aw!! come on, that's what we call a temporary bush repair, if it holds up, its fixed.
22nd Nov 2018 10:01 pm
Stu_rs
Member Since: 24 Nov 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 74
Looks like I found the problem.
only thing I'm unsure of now is the length of time it takes to reach that pressure. The compressor seems to run forever. It reached just over 1750kpa and vented - compressor stopped running at this point.
Right - EPB fault next on the list for MOT
24th Nov 2018 12:07 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
You were possibly filling with an empty tank which might account for the time. In any case the system is designed to flag a DTC fault if the fill process takes too long! Looks like you might have nipped it
EDIT:
If there's an EPB fault code it might possibly be sorted now also, especially if its a cascade "lost communication with" DTCyµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
24th Nov 2018 1:19 pm
Stu_rs
Member Since: 24 Nov 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 74
Interesting about EPB fault being linked, I’ve got some time tomorrow to spend on it so will investigate.
Surely I’m not that lucky...
They are ‘lost comms’ Codes and was planning on checking for 12v at the plug but that’s another day and another thread!
Thanks for the help too, best forum I’ve been part of in 15 years of unreliable car ownership!
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