Member Since: 13 Jun 2015
Location: Reading
Posts: 17
Could that be the cause, parking on a molehill ?!?!? sorry couldn't resist.
I think a wonky looking self-levelling car would really annoy me, so perhaps try forcing the sensor as suggested.
Inside the cross valve is a little rubber seal which can be changed if you can take it to a local seal supplier for a match. Pennies.
In the case of my wiring fault last year, there were no faults showing until the wiring was almost completely chaffed through. That issue was at the front but it started with levelling and lowering issues both happening together.
I think you are making a mountain out of a mole hill!- 1/2 an inch is 12 mm well within tolerance of +/- 10mm per sensor, I also doubt anyone could tell by looking that one side is 12mm lower than the other.
I had a similar situation when I recalibrate mine, never after a run and checking heights did I get the same measurements, but they where always within tolerance.
I would suggest you put it in tight tolerance for a while and then check the measurements. You could also set the so called lower corner higher with the Iid tool and leave it.
Hi M3DPO,
Thanks for the suggestion but I've tried setting it in the tight tolerance mode to get it within 3mm of spec but still it re adjusts so the nearside is lower.
It is noticeable, I notice it & so did my MOT tester yesterday so perhaps it's more than 12mm from time to time. I guess & i'm no expert, that if for some reason the stored height data is changing & the suspension only adjusts when it's 10mm out of spec, that you could potentially have a 22mm difference before it tries to correct itself.
It's certainly better than the original image i posted in this thread of the car on the forecourt listing to the left.
I have dabbled with increasing the offset on the NSR but that is masking an underlying problem in my view. It's one of those things, it never used to do it, but it does now, why? !
Cheers MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
I think a wonky looking self-levelling car would really annoy me, so perhaps try forcing the sensor as suggested.
It's driving me insane!
Perhaps I will have a look at the wiring in the NSF arch to start if the rain ever lets up!
Cheers MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
30th Sep 2017 9:14 am
Erea
Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Munster
Posts: 1509
I haven't read all the replies so forgive me if you tried this... what happens if you adjust it so that corner is 10-15mm higher? Does it hold at that or self adjust 10-15mm down which would be level and problem solved or does it self adjust down past level to being too low at that corner?
I've reflected some more on this during a long drive to Manchester & I recall that I do occasionally get the following error code which i'd dismissed because it's often mentioned that the U errors are intermittent comms problems & of no real significance.
I wonder in this case though if it's an indication of a wiring problem which perhaps points to the nearside front arch. When I did the brakes (which was when all these problems started) I noticed a cable that appeared to be rubbing between the arch moulding & the chassis. It was in a white shroud & whilst the shroud was worn, the cables appeared intact. I put some amalgam tape around them for good measure.
Perhaps this could be the root cause of my problems?
Any thoughts?
MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
So to remove it from the equation, I've taken a look at the wiring behind the front nearside wheel arch.
What I thought might have been an issue with a frayed cable doesn't look like it is. Although it was chaffed it's not the cable I though it might have been.
See below
Click image to enlarge
Looking at rest of the wiring further up, this all looks fine to me, no broken wires, worn cabling extra.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
So at least that removes wiring from the front NS arch as a possible cause.
Next move? The wiring in the rear NS I guess?
MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
So I appear to be able to level the car by manually setting the height at each corner, it then stays level for a bit, but overtime it becomes un-level again. However, it's not like it all the time. I'm 99% sure the systems not leaking.
I've noticed that when sitting in the car with the engine running after a time it will adjust, I know this is not out of the norm but i think the way it does it might be. This is not a subtle adjustment, but quite a noticeable lurch. I'm wondering if the problem is actually a combination of two things. A, A sticky rear crossover valve. B, A tired compressor that struggles to raise the gallery pressure.
So i'm thinking the compressor is taking time to raise the gallery pressure & pushing against a sticky valve. When the pressure gets high enough the sticky valve releases & the rear levels itself which is the lurch i'm feeling as the pressure is suddenly released.
Anyone think this sound plausible or experienced a similar situation? Would the compressor trying to raise pressure against a sticky valve cause any error codes as other than the U0132 I get occasionally I don't see anything else.
Cheers Guys MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
Noticed an interesting development this morning which lead me to suspect the rear valve block may actually be sticking open causing my uneven rear suspension wows.
This morning the car looked like it was in off road mode from the rear looking at the OSF. A quick measure & the OSR was at 510mm & the NSR was at 475mm in standard mode on a level surface.
The car doesn't get put in off road so how it's got to 510mm god only knows. The only thing i'd changed recently was adding a couple of points to the near side rear offset to try & visually correct the imbalance last week sometime. I'm now wondering if for some reason the car is taking air from the NS & transfering it to the OS? Is this even possible?
Anyhow, I've taken it to the weighbridge again this moring & recalibrated it again. I've raised & lowered it multiple times through Access, Standard & Off Road & got the same equal results for the rear across the axles each time
Access 435mm
Standard 485mm
Off road 545mm
I've been here before, but lets see how it goes! I'll be paying more attention to the Off side height increasing now rather than the nearside height decreasing.
My patience is wearing thin ing Land Rovers
MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
Since last weekend only SHMBO has pottered around in the car & hasn't touched anything relating to suspension. I took the car up to my usula haunt & measure the rear which last weekend I reset with the IID tool & has the rear moving up & down through all options equally.
Here are the rear readings for the OS / NS corner heights from this morning.
On arrival
Os 495
Ns 484
diff 11
Access
Os 442
Ns 431
diff 11
Standard
Os 495
Ns 482
diff 13
Off road
Os 540
Ns 525
diff 15
So an average difference between Ns & Os of 13mm. It appears to me looking at these figures that whilst there is an imbalance on all figures & given the 10mm adjustment tolerance in the system it will never match exactly, the trend seems to actually be for the OS to be increasing it's average height rather than the Ns drop as I originally suspected.
I know 13mm isn't alot across the width of the vehicle, but i notice it visually & sometime it's worse so I need to get to the bottom of the issue
As a quick recap,
A. I've changed the height sensors all round
B. Re calibrated the suspension on multiple occasions
C. tried offseting the difference manually (eventually results in an imbalance again but higher overall rear suspension levels)
D. Check for wiring issues both front & rear (Internal arches NS) although I now understand the wiring was rerouted post 2007 models.
E. The compressor seems to be running in spec, showing thereabouts expected gallery pressure in the various modes.
F. Left fuse 26 out overnight to confirm the vehicle doesn't drop removing a system leak from the equation
G. The vehicle doesn't throw any warning or fault codes except for U0132 which it's always done post his issue.
As I see it now it can be one two things, either the rear valve block of the suspension control unit. I'm leaning towards the valve block. If it was the control unit surely I'd be seeing more errors / faults?
Is there anything else before I go booking it into the dealer for replacement valves?
Sunday morning musing over. Have a great rest of the weekend MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
29th Oct 2017 1:03 pm
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
I had a similar issue and after trying all remedies inc protracted discussions with Pat @ GAP, reluctantly stripped the rear valve block (bit of a pig to get out, worse to get back in !) and wish I had started there.
This is what I found
Click image to enlarge
Gave it a good clean up, rebuilt and reinstalled - bingo, no more issues, car sits level, car doesn't drop, no bings or bongs. Job done.
Steve
29th Oct 2017 1:07 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Skagg wrote:
Sunday morning & the rain has stopped for a bit!
Since last weekend only SHMBO has pottered around in the car & hasn't touched anything relating to suspension. I took the car up to my usula haunt & measure the rear which last weekend I reset with the IID tool & has the rear moving up & down through all options equally.
Here are the rear readings for the OS / NS corner heights from this morning.
On arrival
Os 495
Ns 484
diff 11
Access
Os 442
Ns 431
diff 11
Standard
Os 495
Ns 482
diff 13
Off road
Os 540
Ns 525
diff 15
So an average difference between Ns & Os of 13mm. It appears to me looking at these figures that whilst there is an imbalance on all figures & given the 10mm adjustment tolerance in the system it will never match exactly, the trend seems to actually be for the OS to be increasing it's average height rather than the Ns drop as I originally suspected.
I know 13mm isn't alot across the width of the vehicle, but i notice it visually & sometime it's worse so I need to get to the bottom of the issue
As a quick recap,
A. I've changed the height sensors all round
B. Re calibrated the suspension on multiple occasions
C. tried offseting the difference manually (eventually results in an imbalance again but higher overall rear suspension levels)
D. Check for wiring issues both front & rear (Internal arches NS) although I now understand the wiring was rerouted post 2007 models.
E. The compressor seems to be running in spec, showing thereabouts expected gallery pressure in the various modes.
F. Left fuse 26 out overnight to confirm the vehicle doesn't drop removing a system leak from the equation
G. The vehicle doesn't throw any warning or fault codes except for U0132 which it's always done post his issue.
As I see it now it can be one two things, either the rear valve block of the suspension control unit. I'm leaning towards the valve block. If it was the control unit surely I'd be seeing more errors / faults?
Is there anything else before I go booking it into the dealer for replacement valves?
Sunday morning musing over. Have a great rest of the weekend
hi mate
just had a thought , could the pressure sensor in the reservoir valve be causing this, seeing it tells the compressor when to turn on and off , or could the reservoir valve contain silica and not allowing the correct opening and closure
once again just a general thought regarding this
did u say in the past about replacing any of the valves ,checked the condition of them for any silica in them
hope ur able to pin it down and finally be able to resolve the issue
Thanks for the reply! Everything is pointing to the valve block & your reply further supports that.
Like you, I've been reluctant to pull it apart as it doesn't look the easiest of things to get to (Is anything on the D3?) I don't have the best working space here for jacking & clambering around under a 3 ton truck. The dealer wants around £250 to replace the valve block which seems reasonable, so i think i'm going to head down that route for ease. They can give the EAS the once over before changing it too I guess.
If it ain't that then it's going for auction (according to SHMBO)
MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
29th Oct 2017 1:22 pm
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
I found the easiest route is too jack up the rear and stick it on axle stands, remove the spare wheel and work from within the cavity. Take care with the pipe unions and make sure they can move freely before trying to remove them. getting them back in place without cross threading can be good for the swear box !!
I didn't spend any money all. Cleaning and rebuilding the block is not difficult, ensure you get every last bit of silica out; the middle valve can stick so take care here, it can easily pull apart if you tug it too much.
Let us know how you get on - I'd been threatening to do mine for over 18 months but just couldn't raise the enthusiasm, glad I did and should have done it sooner !
I'd not given that a thought really, but your level of understanding appears greater than mine
I've not seen anything to suspect the reservoir valve block as i presumed that if this was playing up it would affect both front & rear. If there was a blockage from the reservoir valve to the rear valve wouldn't this cause an overall performance issue with the rear. (slow to reach height or not at all) Because the issue is across the axle i'm suspecting the rear valve block (maybe incorrectly)
If the pressure sensor was faulty & causing the compressor to overrun wouldn't the excess pressure just vent through the exhaust valve?
i shall have a look with IID tool at the live values from the reservoir & see if that give any indications.
Thanks for the thoughts MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
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sorry couldn't resist.
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