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AMK Compressor Rebuild Guide
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11891952
 


Member Since: 11 Jul 2020
Location: Pulborough
Posts: 83

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3
AMK Compressor Rebuild Guide

Hi,
Anybody know where I might be able to find a rebuild guide for the AMK compressor? Have seen the Hitachi one in the Wiki, but they look quite different, so was hoping to find one to suit.
Ta, Joe.
  
Post #220324718th Jan 2021 8:36 am
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Stein Roger
 


Member Since: 24 Jan 2021
Location: In the West
Posts: 6

Norway 

Hi Joe,
As I understand it there's no rebuild kit for the compressor itself, but then the AMK seems to last longer.
However, 4x4 Air Seals have published videos on servicing the dryer and valves.
&t=6s
Part 2 deals with the valves. I recently serviced mine, a 2006 which had had an AMK transplant at some point. The car sat on the bump stops and wouldn't raise. I got the C1113 and C1A20 fault codes and had a go at the compressor unit. While the desiccant granules seemed OK, the exhaust valve had stuck. After cleaning it up and lubricating it with a low temp silicon grease, and drying the desiccant in the oven for 7 hours at 140 C, I re-installed it and it worked right away.
The AMK unit can be slid out by removing the 3 rubber and spring mounts, the carrier can be left in place. The plastic cover must be removed of course. Thankfully the previous mechanic had discarded the threaded frame clips and simply zip-tied it. There's also a small Torx screw in the middle.
If you can, buy a kit from 4x4 first, the big flange O-ring was seriously compromised on mine and I had to resort to silicone to seal it. With the exhaust valve stuck, pressure had increased to the point where it had developed a leak there, as evidenced by a powdery residue around it.

Hth
SR
  
Post #22080725th Feb 2021 7:36 am
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PROFSR G
 


Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4577

Ukraine 2009 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial XS Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

There are more bits available now for refurbishing the piston side of the compressor. Be warned though, this is not a simple procedure unlike the Hitachi units, and requires a press as well as no small amount of dexterity! (very easy to destroy the piston con rod rendering the compressor scrap)

So that part of the compressor is best left alone, and is very robust anyway. As suggested above, stick to refurbing the drier assembly as this is where the faults occur, and it's child's play if you can use basic tools. Thumbs Up
 yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ

 
 
Post #22081285th Feb 2021 12:32 pm
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11891952
 


Member Since: 11 Jul 2020
Location: Pulborough
Posts: 83

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

Thanks both for the replies, and the links, all good stuff. The kit from air seals has arrived, I'm just trying to work up the courage to crack on now.

I'm very much hoping it's just the drier. I get the 'slow to increase' code, but only intermittently at the moment. I'm hoping by catching it now I'll save myself too much grief! We'll see. Laughing
  
Post #22089178th Feb 2021 9:17 am
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PROFSR G
 


Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4577

Ukraine 2009 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial XS Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

Yes if you get on it now it can save your compressor from burn out (too long running!)

Click image to enlarge


If its just the drier you are going after you can just remove this part and leave the compressor body in place. You will need a few basic hand tools, a small ratchet and socket set, a set of spanners, a small Torx bit set, and a long nose pliers or similar. Once you have removed the bottom cover held in place with an m6 10mm bolt, prise off the cover locking tabs from where it joins with the top part of the cover. Undo the elec plug on the exh valve (pic1), the two air pipes, (small one at the front and larger one on the side) pic 2&3. Then slowly undo the two Torx screws holding the drier to the compressor and carefully lift it away.(there's a spring!!) This will allow you to leave the main body of the compressor intact, but carefully inspect it anyway for signs of corrosion or damage, particularly the rear air pipe seal nearest the wheel arch as this is prone to perishing and leaks

Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge


Now carefully remove the mesh plate holding the desiccant and filters and discard both. Remove the blue canister (long nose pliers and pull) and thoroughly clean and dry the internals replacing and lubricating end seal if its in your kit. Now twist off the cap on the pressure relief valve (where the small air pipe was connected) pic3. Remove the valve and clean thoroughly, lubricate with smear of petroleum jelly or similar and replace the valve and cover. (do not attempt to disassemble the valve cap itself as this has a factory preset position)

Undo the two Torx screws holding the exh valve in place and remove it noting its position. again clean thoroughly and dry before refitting the valve.(or renew it). Replace the filters and desiccant but do not overfill with desiccant! It should be a snug fit when you replace the mesh screen and filter which snaps back into the blue canister. (be carefull the mesh plate it does not pop out or youll be on your hands and knees picking up small silica beads until Easter Laughing ) Make sure you replace and lubricate any seals with new ones depending on which kit you have purchased.

Align the drier and spring with the compressor body and tighten the screws equally. lube the seals on the two air pipes and carefully screw them back in place making sure not to cross thread or overtighten.
reconnect the elec plug and replace the lower case cover and you're done.
 yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ

 
 
Post #22089738th Feb 2021 2:29 pm
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