Member Since: 23 Apr 2010
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 141
Did the rears a few months ago and it cleaned up the annoying clunks. Getting ready to do the front and have two questions.
1) I assume easier to do with wheel removed? If so I may wait until my winter wheel changeover.
2) The refernced oil cooler. I s this specific to the diesels? I seem to have clear access on the 4.4 V8.
12th Sep 2011 5:26 pm
ktm_525
Member Since: 23 Apr 2010
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 141
Front on the V8 was quite simple. On the left hand side there was some trouble getting a socket onto the nut. The right hand side was completely clear with a ton of room. A 30 mintue job.
9th Oct 2011 11:31 pm
mgerity
Member Since: 17 Oct 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 8
Can this issue cause a chirp or squeek instead of a clunk?
Instead of a clunk as described in this thread, I am getting a loud chirping or squeeking noise whenever we go over bumps. The sound is usually a short chirp of under a 1/2 second or so, but occassionally we get a longer one that may last for a full second or so. Appears to be mostly coming from the right side, but it seems to happen when either the front or rear encounters a bump. The noise is getting louder, and is loud enough to hear a full 1/2 block away at this point. I can't seem to reproduce the sound when just manually pushing on the corners of the vehicle.
Somebody suggested that I try the spacers described in this post, but I don't want to do that project if it isn't related to my issue. Anybody else ever get a chirping noise related to this issue instead of the clunk?
17th Oct 2011 8:35 am
ktm_525
Member Since: 23 Apr 2010
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 141
Re: Can this issue cause a chirp or squeek instead of a clun
On the non-diesels the access to the front/rear bushings is straightforward. For the $4 kit I would highly rec. starting with that. The sound could be described as a chirp. You could always try spraying all the bushings with some white lithium grease (spray can) and see if that helps.
7th Nov 2011 6:10 pm
Leesbay
Member Since: 20 Dec 2011
Location: rainford
Posts: 1581
Great write up by Disco mikey
Just finished doing the shims for rear ArbS. Pain in ass to get to with a ratchet, going one click at a time but after a can of WD40 and an hour and a half managed fine. You woulnt believe how much noise is caused by such a simple failure of a rubber bush
Shims were only a tenner off ebay, genuine parts too. Stratstones quoted £180 to do them last week! Yeah nice work if you can get it fellas
Car runs like its on glass, ooooh to have a quiet disco again!
Cheers disco mikey....................................................................................................
If my wife ever sells my stuff for what she thinks I paid for them, you lot are gonna get some bargains!
Last edited by Leesbay on 26th Feb 2012 6:49 pm. Edited 1 time in total
26th Feb 2012 4:22 pm
Leesbay
Member Since: 20 Dec 2011
Location: rainford
Posts: 1581
And before i get any comments about rubber bushes, i know ann summers sells a similar product, but it wont help your suspension noise much!!! ....................................................................................................
If my wife ever sells my stuff for what she thinks I paid for them, you lot are gonna get some bargains!
26th Feb 2012 4:24 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
Leesbay wrote:
Shims were only a tenner off ebay, genuine parts too
Think you have been diddled my friend. To buy them new, from a dealer, they cost less than £2... My D3 Build Thread
If my wife ever sells my stuff for what she thinks I paid for them, you lot are gonna get some bargains!
26th Feb 2012 6:07 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
As a belated answer as to the correct torque for the bar clamp bolts = 115Nm, in case anyone is still wondering...Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 20 Dec 2011
Location: rainford
Posts: 1581
Cheers Robbie, no torque wrench so had to use the F T method!....................................................................................................
If my wife ever sells my stuff for what she thinks I paid for them, you lot are gonna get some bargains!
26th Feb 2012 6:44 pm
Stay Frosty
Member Since: 25 Jan 2010
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 82
Replaced mine today. Unbolting the fuel coolers is a nightmare. I found it easiest to lie with my feet towards the boot. I reached up with my right hand to guide the wrench onto the bolt. I accessed the bolt over the top of the chasis with socket wrench that had a long extender leading to an articulated joint, onto a short extender then finally the 10mm socket. Hope this helps.
Thanks once again for the guide.
4th Apr 2012 3:24 pm
tlt
Member Since: 02 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
I'm adding approximate pricing and part numbers as each project is ticked off.
PM me for the list meantime if you can't wait.
4th Apr 2012 8:40 pm
MGH87
Member Since: 29 Mar 2012
Location: Telemark
Posts: 36
Anyone know the thickness and measures of these spacers?
I have some rubber gasket mats in different thickness. I guess one of those would be suitable to cut my own spacers from
22nd Apr 2012 12:07 pm
tlt
Member Since: 02 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
These spacers were a stopgap measure way back when. The new ARB bushes have been redesigned, so just order the new bushes, and you should be in good shape. It would be good to have a comment at the beginning of this thread, and also point to the bush how to.
Prices are USD for approximation purposes
LR015339 front suspension, stabilizer bar, bushings LR3 W/AIR SUSPENSION 2 $20.72 (US)
LR015336 rear suspension, stabilizer bar, bushings LR4 2 $25.36
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