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incubus13
Member Since: 02 Feb 2014
Location: Bourgas
Posts: 17
  
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Thanks, nighthawk! 
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 4th Feb 2014 8:52 am |
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jarlel
Member Since: 08 Apr 2013
Location: Oslo
Posts: 12
 
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nighthawk wrote:My LR specialist told me you don't need these spacers anymore. If you buy new bushes now they are a different design which fixes this issue. Basically, the bushes are thicker.
Hi, can anyone confirm this? I just bought original rear ARB bushes, then I don't need the spacers, is that correct?
Thanks.
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| 2nd Apr 2014 8:06 am |
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incubus13
Member Since: 02 Feb 2014
Location: Bourgas
Posts: 17
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Yes, they are 5mm taller.
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| 2nd Apr 2014 3:06 pm |
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rovervirus
Member Since: 31 Oct 2012
Location: behind the sun
Posts: 92
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yes they are, but they will get worn also after a while.
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| 3rd Apr 2014 11:58 am |
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Jasonb
Member Since: 04 May 2013
Location: Bristol
Posts: 97
  
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Success - Clonks gone!
I've been faffing around with new ARB drop links, new track robs and various other bits in a attempt to cure my suspension Clonks. My ARB bushes looked perfectly fine but I fitted the LR spacers at the weekend and I can't believe the difference this 5 quid fix has made.
No more Clonks and the ride quality and cornering stability are much improved. The whole car feels tighter like it has many less miles under its belt.
Thanks to the various pictures I reckon I saved a couple of hours figuring out how to get to the various bolts. Rear ones were done on the floor by removing the wheels. Front were done with car on a set of ramps by removing both metal and plastic under trays for access.
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| 14th Apr 2014 7:58 am |
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DDDad
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
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| A four inch bolt holds the 'cross member' in place! |
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It's worth mentioning that the BIG RED ARROW in DM's photo points to the 4 inch bolt at the front end of the 'cross member'. It took me 2 hours to get this out, using GT85, a blow torch and a 2 foot breaker bar. I hadn't realised it was so long, so I wasn't always aiming the GT85 towards the threads, merely the shank. By the time I'd finished the head was rounded off and I was using the wonderful Irwin sockets to save the day.
Now the member is off, I'm going to drill out the belly-pan bolt snapped by the dealers sometime in the last 5 years! After I've changed the ARBBs, of course. Then I am definitely applying copper grease before putting the new hardware in 
As I've posted elsewhere, the front ARB clamps torque to 115NM, but the smaller bolts on the rear ARB clamps to only 62NM (if you can get a torque wrench in position at all). They are definitely NOT threads you want to strip! Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
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| 25th Apr 2015 9:07 pm |
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Madrilleno
Member Since: 13 Oct 2014
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 1742
 
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Did my rears last night, took a couple of hours including cleaning up and drinking tea. No problems with seized nuts, hardest part was getting the new bushes over the bar.
Nice, clunk free driving this morning.
Does anyone have a cost for getting these done at either a dealer or indie? There are two rules for success,
1. Never tell everything you know.
RLD Spare Wheel Protector
RLD Sump Guard
Narpy Style RRS Grille from Beanie
Discostick 3rd button FBH controller
IID BT
EGRs Blanked
Geoff Gearbox Flush
Prospeed sliders & compressor guard
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| 24th Jun 2015 9:06 am |
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