jamesSE4x4R
Member Since: 09 Mar 2016
Location: kent seaside
Posts: 176
  
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| Has anyone got the correct alignment specs for a D4 |
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I’m about to have an almighty row with my local tyre Center as they’ve ballsed up my alignment and are arguing they’ve set it up correctly.. has anyone got the correct geometry settings at all?
TIA
Jim www.southeast4x4response.org.uk Responder of 9 years service SE140
Ex defender 50th owner, GB165
2010 MY XS -sold
2014 MY HSE Lux curent
2017 MY Disco Sport (wife's)
" if it fly's, floats, is fast or fornicates you can't afford it my boy" RIP Gramps 2009
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 11th Sep 2020 4:44 pm |
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Asbestross
Member Since: 18 Apr 2019
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 152
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> No settings I could see in the manual, but this is the procedure:
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1. Check the tie rod ends, suspension joints, wheel bearings and wheels and tires for damage, wear and free play. Adjust or repair any worn, damaged or incorrectly adjusted components.
2. Check and adjust tire pressures.
3. Position the vehicle on a calibrated, level, vehicle lift.
4. Release the vehicle parking brake.
5. Vehicles with dynamic suspension: Using the approved diagnostic tool, check the air suspension control module for fault codes and clear as required.
6. Vehicles with dynamic suspension: Using the diagnostic tool, set vehicle to 'Geometry Set Mode', using the instructions below. Putting the vehicle into this mode will make sure that the ride heights are controlled more accurately.
1. Select the 'Configuration' tab
2. Select 'Set up and Configure'.
3. Select 'Air Suspension'.
4. Select 'Suspension Geometry Set Up'.
5. Select 'Tight Tolerance Mode'.
6. Follow the on-screen instructions until the setup process has finished.
NOTE: If rear camber adjustment is required, loosen the rear camber adjustment bolts enough to allow adjustment before starting any other wheel alignment
adjustments. Do not fully loosen the rear camber adjustment bolts. Using only four-wheel alignment equipment approved by Land Rover, check and adjust the wheel alignment.
8. CAUTION: Make sure the toe link anti-rotation tang is fully seated in the integrated body frame before tightening the toe link retaining nut. Failure to follow this instruction will result in damage to the toe link or integrated body frame. NOTE: This step is only required if the toe links have been removed or replaced.
Adjust the rear bump steer. Loosen the toe link inner ball joint retaining nut. Set the gap, between the underside of the toe link rubber boot and the
integrated body frame bracket, to 10 mm (0.473 in). Tighten the toe link inner ball joint retaining nut to 133 Nm (98 lb.ft) Repeat the above procedure for the
other side.
9. Adjust the rear camber. Loosen the rear camber adjusting bolts. Rotate the rear camber adjusting bolt until the correct value is obtained. Repeat the above procedure for the other side. Tighten the rear camber adjusting bolts.
10. Install the special tool and a suitable socket to the rear camber adjusting bolt retaining nut.
11. NOTES: The torque wrench must be installed in a direct line with the special tool, as shown. Calculate the torque wrench setting using the formula below.
Key to letters: A = Effective length of the torque wrench, measured in mm.
Formula: Torque wrench setting (Nm) = (133xA)/(A+100)
Using the special tool, a suitable extension bar and a torque wrench, fully tighten the camber adjusting bolt retaining nut. Use the torque wrench setting calculated above. Repeat the above procedure for the other side.
12. Adjust the rear toe. Loosen the toe link adjustment locking nut. Rotate the toe link inner ball joint until the correct rear toe value is obtained. Tighten the toe link adjustment locking nut to 130 Nm (96 lb.ft). Repeat the above procedure for the other side. Repeat the rear toe measurement.
13. CAUTION: Make sure the slip plates (turntables) are free to move before adjusting the geometry. Adjust the front camber. Loosen the lower arm front camber adjusting bolt. Rotate the front camber adjusting bolt until the correct value is obtained. Tighten the lower arm front camber adjusting bolt to 275 Nm (203 lb.ft). Repeat the above procedure for the other side.
14. Adjust the front castor. Loosen the lower arm rear castor adjusting bolt. Rotate the castor adjusting bolt until the correct value is obtained.
Tighten the lower arm rear castor adjusting bolt. Repeat the above procedure for the other side. Repeat the castor measurement. Repeat the above procedure until both castors achieve the correct value. Tighten the lower arm rear castor adjusting bolts to 275 Nm (203 lb.ft).
15. Align the steering to straight ahead. Measure the length of the exposed thread on each track rod. If the exposed thread lengths differ by
more than two millimetres:
Stage one: Loosen one track rod end locking nut.
Stage two: Rotate the track rod until the lengths of the exposed threads on both track rods are equal.
Stage three: Tighten the track rod end locking nut.
Stage four: Rotate the steering wheel until both front toe measurements are equal.
16. Adjust the front toe. Loosen the track rod end locking nuts. Rotate the track rods to adjust each individual front toe to the correct value. Tighten the track rod end locking nuts to 53 Nm (39 lb.ft).
17. Vehicles with dynamic suspension: Using the diagnostic tool, return the vehicle to 'Normal Mode'.
1. Select the 'Configuration' tab
2. Select 'Set up and Configure'.
3. Select 'Air Suspension'.
4. Select 'Suspension Geometry Set Up'.
5. Select 'Normal Mode'.
6. Follow the on-screen instructions until the normal
mode process has finished.
18. Calibrate the steering angle sensor using the diagnostic tool. 2003 Freelander Commercial 2.0 TD4 (Oslo Blue) SOLD
2013 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.0 TVD6 (Luxor Gold) SOLD
2013 Discovery 4 HSE 3.0 SDV6 (Aintree Green)
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| 11th Sep 2020 7:11 pm |
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Asbestross
Member Since: 18 Apr 2019
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 152
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I had a garage totally mess up a BMW of mine a few years ago. They swore blind the operative did it correctly until the owner drove it. Turned out they hadn't paid to have the alignment machine calibrated in a long time. 2003 Freelander Commercial 2.0 TD4 (Oslo Blue) SOLD
2013 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.0 TVD6 (Luxor Gold) SOLD
2013 Discovery 4 HSE 3.0 SDV6 (Aintree Green)
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| 11th Sep 2020 7:13 pm |
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Asbestross
Member Since: 18 Apr 2019
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 152
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I obviously didn't look very hard - it's only a few pages back from the procedure...
Cheers  2003 Freelander Commercial 2.0 TD4 (Oslo Blue) SOLD
2013 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.0 TVD6 (Luxor Gold) SOLD
2013 Discovery 4 HSE 3.0 SDV6 (Aintree Green)
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| 12th Sep 2020 4:51 pm |
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Satamax
Member Since: 14 Jul 2020
Location: Frankreich.
Posts: 33
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Asbestross wrote:I had a garage totally mess up a BMW of mine a few years ago. They swore blind the operative did it correctly until the owner drove it. Turned out they hadn't paid to have the alignment machine calibrated in a long time.
Guys, just checking this chart. If i read correctly, the D4 toes slightly out ? No ? Anybody cares to explain to me. I set it slightly towards those vallues. With a straightedge. Putting the rear of the tyre 6/10th of a milimeter in. The dsc waskicking on right hands turns after changing the tie rods. Now, with most of it corrected; of course, as best as i can) it does it on left hand turns. It's a bank holliday in france now. And it gets complicated to have it checked quickly.
Thanks a lot guys.
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| 14th Aug 2023 4:44 pm |
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