Member Since: 04 Sep 2017
Location: Sussex
Posts: 99
You get a long section of 16mm black battery cable with the T-Max kit, enough to install the kit provided you don't mind using black for both +ve and -ve leads.
You also get an LED battery indicator for inside the car, which has a button to manually link the batteries in case you need to crank from the 2nd etc.2007 Discovery 3 HSE
1986 Land Rover 90 Ex-MOD
With failing diodes, the alternator could still output a healthy voltage. Check for alternating current - directly at the alternator if possible. Over 0.5V is bad news. Current: Discovery 3 06MY (55 reg) HSE Auto Zambezi Silver Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
Freelander 2 2007 HSE Manual Tambora Flame
Previous: FL2 56 reg SE Manual Black (written off )
Disco 3 06 reg B7S Manual Rimini Red
Disco 2 TD5 Y reg ES Manual Blue - Chipped
Several Discovery 300 TDis
10th Oct 2017 2:37 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576
Downsman wrote:
You get a long section of 16mm black battery cable with the T-Max kit, enough to install the kit provided you don't mind using black for both +ve and -ve leads.
You also get an LED battery indicator for inside the car, which has a button to manually link the batteries in case you need to crank from the 2nd etc.
perfect and many thks for the info, didn't know if i needed to get some more cable
only found out my dad had a spare battery which i charged up overnight , then kicked myself as it was 260mm long and wouldn't fit , need one 240mm long ,
as i thought i could have installed the battery then until i get the T max system i could just connect some jump lead leads across the batteries if i needed the backup
have ordered a spare used battery bracket and bolts and some new battery clamps for now , will see what there like when they turn up
Last edited by gstuart on 10th Oct 2017 4:48 pm. Edited 2 times in total
10th Oct 2017 4:41 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576
Lost for Words wrote:
With failing diodes, the alternator could still output a healthy voltage. Check for alternating current - directly at the alternator if possible. Over 0.5V is bad news.
hi
you've got a great point there as if i'm honest i'm pretty sure i didn't test that , assume u mean to use a clamp meter after the system has gone to sleep to see if there is any voltage on the alternator lead
also when i done the residual drain test before i can't remember if i locked the doors or set the alarm with the keyfob , will have to try and find the thread again and read up if i need to set the alarm or not, just used a paper clip before to link out the bonnet switch
thks again for the voltage figures that will be very useful
You could certainly do that, but no, what I meant was set your multimeter to the AC setting and measure at the alternator with the car running. As the alternator produces an alternating current naturally, the diodes are responsible for rectifying it into DC - getting it to flow the right way. If they start to fail, they let some current flow the wrong way, meaning as well as draining the battery, they let some of that alternating current through which you can detect with the multimeter. Current: Discovery 3 06MY (55 reg) HSE Auto Zambezi Silver Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
Freelander 2 2007 HSE Manual Tambora Flame
Previous: FL2 56 reg SE Manual Black (written off )
Disco 3 06 reg B7S Manual Rimini Red
Disco 2 TD5 Y reg ES Manual Blue - Chipped
Several Discovery 300 TDis
11th Oct 2017 7:21 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576
many thks for the info , always good to learn something new
will try that out and most appreciated , thank u
11th Oct 2017 11:53 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Most cheapo multimeters will not do the AC voltage test to the accuracy required. Typically you need one that has RMS capability.
It is a very valid test though. Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576
hi Robbie
appreciate the info, do u think one of these testers may be good enough plse
i've also got an iid is there any live reading i can get on there for the alternator or is just using a multimeter suffice
many thks
12th Oct 2017 6:52 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10336
lets face it, if the alternator has failed, it will flatten/kill a battery overnight.
So if it hasn't done this....
12th Oct 2017 11:08 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576
hi
may i also ask what is the max voltage i should ever see please from the alternator
haven’t been able to find it on the forum and wondering if anyone may have a link please
many thks as always
26th Oct 2017 4:59 pm
Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
Anything more than 14.4v is too much. Lead acid batteries start to gas off at about 14.5vNew gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
26th Oct 2017 10:20 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576
hi
many thks for the reply
didn’t realise that if it goes over 14.4 volts it’s faulty
27th Oct 2017 1:46 am
Oswiperus D3 Decade
Member Since: 02 Apr 2010
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Posts: 1590
Alternator can charge as high as 15.5V on the disco but will generally settle back into the 14's after a while.Stu
2016 D4 Landmark current
2022 Defender D300 SE Gone
D4 2014 XS Commercial - Gone
D4 2016 hse lux montalcino red - Gone
D3 2005 se java black - current
D3 2005 base manual - gone
D2 1999 TD5 E white - current
27th Oct 2017 7:17 am
Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
Maybe mine underperforms...
I have 2 voltmeters fitted to mine, one for each battery in the split charge system. I've never seen a value above 14.2v, even after a heavy discharge cycleNew gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
27th Oct 2017 9:14 am
Skynet
Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: Melksham, Wiltshire
Posts: 868
Depends on the journeys you do too. My drive to work is 8 miles which is not a long charge time when you use lights and heater. My voltmeter in cigar lighter socket shows 15.1 max but on longer journeys drops to 14.1VDave
D3 2006 HSE, Cairns Blue - gone
D4 2016 SE, White
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum