Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
Boost pressure actuator bank 1
Dear all,
So, long running battle with turbo issues.
Not catastrophic, but definitely in the ‘annoying’ territory, and haven’t had the car long enough for it to be ‘part of the family’ so any conversation with my wife regarding £2k (est) on a new turbo is likely to trigger an hour long conversation, probably at an exaggerated level of volume, ultimately ending in “its not worth it. Get rid of it”, with a fair number of recriminations in thrown in there somewhere for good measure.
The IID codes I’ve been getting are
P0046-00 (68) Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid - circuit range/performance
P0299-00 (68) Turbo/supercharger underboost
P132B-00 (2F) Turbo/supercharger boost control A performance
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
The bit of interest here is
Quote:
Using a datalogger function, check the turbocharger actuator position. Turn the ignition on, engine off and command the turbocharger actuator to 95% pulse width modulated (PWM) then to 5% pulse width modulated (PWM) and recheck the turbocharger actuator position. The value at 95% pulse width modulated (PWM) should be 80 - 95%, and at 5% pulse width modulated (PWM), 0 - 20%.
The other interesting bit is in the description of the turbo actuator function
Quote:
The electric actuator moves the control vanes through an 60 degree stroke and has the capability to learn its own maximum stroke positions. The electric actuator is controlled via PWM signals from the ECM.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
So my desire is to try get the IID tool to log what’s happening, and as part of this I’ve been trying to use the live values for
Boost pressure actuator bank 1
calculated load
Logic being they should be analogous to the variables above, but both values simply return “NA”
I emailed the gap team to query this, and got a very quick reply from Pat, but it simply suggested that some models of landrover do not return values for these variables.
My questions, I guess, are....
1: Can the turbo actuator be ‘programmed’ and it’s position ‘checked’ via LRs SDD diagnostic software?
2: If yes, is this something that could be done with the IID tool?
3: If not, does anyone know how to perform these steps?
4: If the actuator is ‘self learning’ in respect of its range, can it be reset after it has been freed?
5: Why is my Land Rover so damn frustrating!
6: How can I pacify an angry Greek wife?
Apologies for the long and complicated post, but would be interested to work on this
Kind regards
Andy
20th May 2018 5:49 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713
You have either:
A seized turbo actuator
Or:
A boost leak
Neither are likely to be hugely expensive, given some time and patience My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
Hi Mikey,
And thanks for the reply.
You are absolutely correct in that I had a sticking turbo actuator arm.
I know have to periodically unstick it; short version being first time I wd40’d it, I think I oversprayed with aluminium spray after that and now it stickers every 3-6 weeks.
You are also probably correct that I have a leaking intercooler pipe somewhere, and medium term I need to work out how to replace them; afai-can-figure the intercooler to throttlebody is easy, the air-intake to turbo is awkward, and the turbo to intercooler is a p.i.t.a.
But, from a longer term perspective, and also from helping others drill down onto the problem, if there is a way to monitor the actuator position request against actual position, it will help me pick up earlier when I need to redo the unseizing procedure.
Andy
20th May 2018 10:00 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13573
Hi Andy
i’ve been having fun with my turbo, found the actuator arm was sticking and jubilee clip broke on the horizontal pipe , left hand side of the turbo, also replaced the intercooler hoses, ( apart from the small one as that had been done and looked fine
out of curiosity , have u got the added software which motors ur actuator arm back and forth when u turn the ign on and off , mine didn’t and had it added to my iid through gap on there fast lane service for £25 via pat
i used the example below that someone had kindly posted on this forum and i made the tool out of a coat hanger
after freeing it up i sprayed GT 85 penetrating oil on the arm
my fault was going into limp mode, fault code
also a thread i posted a little while ago with useful info ref the VGT vanes getting clogged up with carbon
Ive gone back over the actuator arm with wd40 and a coat hanger - so other post where I manage to separate the actuator arm ball and socket joint! - and thought I’d check the intercooler to intake tube.
Found this on visual inspection
So cleaned it down then took tube off to check it. Noticed the jubilee clip was very easy to undo, less than finger tight, and that there was a pool of a few mls of oil inside the tubing. Otherwise it was clear with little noticeable gunk on the inside.
I’ve refitted and tightened the jubilee clip significantly, but could that have been the source of enough of a leak to cause problems?
Moreover, I’m sure I’ve read to expect a little oil in that pipe, but is that anything to be concerned about?
And Mickey, if you get the time to respond, when you say a seized turbo actuator shouldn’t be too expensive to repair, what kind of repair do you mean? Coat hanger and wd40 or fitting the LR replacement control rod.
If the latter, how in hell do you do that because no way I can get a hand in there that I can see!
Kind regards, and thanks in advance
Andy
5th Jun 2018 11:55 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13573
Hi andy
just quickly , i came across this web site a little while back , putting the various codes in gives a really good explanation of each one
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13573
also thought this as good in how the VGT vanes moved
5th Jun 2018 5:40 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10335
the jublie clip shouldn't be loose. (but probably only resulting in a minor reduction in performance/response)
A bit of oil on the pipes is normal. If there is a significant leak on these, it puts black smoke out the exhaust.
As I mentioned in another thread, move the actuator to the mid position and drive sensibly. (no full throttle). See if its livable like that for a while.
5th Jun 2018 7:22 pm
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
Thanks Pete,
but, I managed to get the socket back onto the head, so all is operating normally.
Although it was off, it was still in the proper location to the head, so a bit of judicious levering with a flat bladed screwdriver and I managed to get it back on and properly seated.
The best that can be said is that hopefully I got some lube into the socket as a result?
As I was bricking myself by this point, I didn't stop to take a photo .....
5th Jun 2018 7:55 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13573
Hi andy
just a quick thought , first pic is on the passenger side, i did remove the inner wheelarch liner and fitted a T bolt clamp for this hose
only sign of oil on any of the intercooler hoses was that horizontal hose, LH side of the turbo , just fitted a new jubilee clip where the old clip was broke
5th Jun 2018 8:28 pm
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
Great photos GS. But struggling to orient myself.
Second photo, I can see the turbo, and the T, but where is the short hose?
Can’t work out the first photo at all.
But I’m impressed at the exposure you have.
I’ve only been removing the one heat shield, but looks like taking the liner out, and guessing the other two heatshields, makes a lot of difference
5th Jun 2018 9:01 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13573
thks, was fun taking them
will find some other pics with a wider angle to make life easier
2nd pic, as u look where the new clip is, right above it where u can see 2 x clips , if that makes sense
5th Jun 2018 9:06 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13573
see if this makes more sense
first pic, look for the vertical short pipe with 2 x clips on it
middle one isn’t mine but just shows the end of the turbo with the exhaust pipe removed
last pic, look on the left hand side of my new strut , u will see the pipe and new clip
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum