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hotshot
Member Since: 02 Oct 2017
Location: lincoln
Posts: 81
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boost pressure and maf values please |
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I'm struggling to find a clear answer to this one;
I have iid tool so can read these values - can anyone give rough results for map and map sensors under different conditions please; e.g. idle, cruising and accelerating hard uphill - on a car that's running like new would be ideal please
I'm trying to get to the bottom of a low power issue below about 1700rpm, I changed both egr valves yesterday but noticed barely any difference afterwards.
Car's an 07 hse on 112k, I'm pretty sure there's no air leaks and it only smokes once the power comes in under acceleration, not clouds of it - just what you'd normally expect.
My suspicion is the little pawl that moves the vanes in the turbo is broken - the arm the actuator moves is so free it seems broken (tell me if that's normal please). It's not going to be very accurate but I'm expecting the boost pressure on mine to go up all of a sudden at 1700rpm(ish) whereas one that's operating correctly goes up in more of a slope. My theory being that the vanes are stuck in the right place for roughly that engine speed
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13th Oct 2018 10:20 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10362
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my IID just reads junk for these values.
A new turbo would have a very loose actuator.
But if you have no record of it being changed (or it looks old) you could be right.
Before you remove the turbo there is one thing you can try (if mad enough). is to disconnect the linkage from the actuator to turbo. (not easy on car - or reconnecting) so its find of a last resort)
ANyway, then.
Manually move the turbo shaft to one extreme.
Rev the engine a little to 2000rpm ish and listen.
Then move it to the other extreme.
Rev it again.
At one extreme you can hear a woosh (like a dump valve that isn't working) when you let off the throttle.
Also try the mid position.
From this (and I think maybe how freely the engine revs possibly) you should tell if its working.
Remember the electric actuator will be moving about (at start up + shut down) so make sure its out the way.
Don't rev is too high, you don't want to break something.
You could also try driving it in the mid position and see if its any different, but again, be sensible. You don't want to break the engine or intercooler
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13th Oct 2018 11:25 am |
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hotshot
Member Since: 02 Oct 2017
Location: lincoln
Posts: 81
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Thanks Pete, I'll have a think about how best to do it - the arm on the turbo really does just flop about. The more I think about it, the more convinced I am that it's broken internally - I had one apart on a vauxhall a couple of years ago and having seen how they work I can't see it ever moving that freely
Which begs the question; can the turbo (inc manifold) be replaced without removing or moving the body?
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15th Oct 2018 10:47 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10362
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What Vauxhall model/year was that?
It can be replaced body on, but it's not a nice job.
I think you remove exhaust, front prop shaft, suspension arm
and a home made tool (spanner)
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15th Oct 2018 12:08 pm |
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hotshot
Member Since: 02 Oct 2017
Location: lincoln
Posts: 81
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Signum 1.9cdti 2006 - I ended up doing it twice as the cheap cartridge I fitted in the first place only managed about 6000 miles.
Having just read another thread and watched a few youtube videos though, I'm starting to think the arm is actually meant to be as free as mine! (which is very impressive for 112k and 11 years).
Are these cars usually a bit sluggish low down? to the point of ending up climbing hills in 3rd if you were doing 30 in 5th at the bottom of the hill? Obviously, it's a heavy car but I'm a little disappointed (my D1 and D2 were both as good if not better on hills).
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15th Oct 2018 12:19 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10362
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As I said above, they are meant to be free from new.
Personally I like to climb hills at a high ish RPM
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15th Oct 2018 1:00 pm |
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