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reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
  
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Just a quick one. I have 5 litres of comma DOT4 brake fluid that I use on my other vehicles.
Its this stuff from Halfords: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-o...e-fluid-5l
It meets the ISO4925 specs, but only says it meets classes 3&4 spec.
Bodsy's brake bible suggests the ISO standard is most important but I am not clear on whether its an issue that it isn't class 6 so can I use this in the D3?
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 24th Aug 2018 9:23 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
 
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Will be ok but if you use hill decent a lot use class6
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| 24th Aug 2018 9:25 am |
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reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
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Thanks. Out of interest, what changes as you go up the classes?
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| 24th Aug 2018 9:50 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
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I think class 6 is designed for cars with electronic brake distribution systems (ABS, hill decent, etc) for faster braking changes.
Seamed to be difficult to hunt down initially as its not something the manufactures put in the banners "class 6" but I did see some ATE stuff in a metal can on ebay that was class 6 or renault seam to use it
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| 24th Aug 2018 11:05 am |
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L319
Member Since: 14 Dec 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 2080
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Basically you need a low viscosity brake fluid , that stays 'thin' at low temperatures so the DSC etc. can work fast enough to be effective.
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| 24th Aug 2018 12:46 pm |
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Luapno
Member Since: 27 Sep 2013
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 871
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reb78 wrote:Thanks. Out of interest, what changes as you go up the classes?
Boiling point of the fluid  When you are dead, you do not know you are dead. All of the pain is felt by others. The same thing happens when you are stupid.
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| 24th Aug 2018 12:49 pm |
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reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
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I forgot to go into Halfords today and dont have one near me. Is this stuff ok?
https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Land+Ro...mp;cc5_179
I need to do the rear left caliper tomorrow as its binding so just need some for bleeding.
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| 27th Aug 2018 5:23 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
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to be honest if you make a air tight seal over the tank cap (clin film and rubber band) you won't loose much doing a read caliper change.
And you have that other DOT4 stuff for bleeding (and top up) if necessary.
My tank level didn't drop much.
I used that Pagid stuff in my Fiesta, but it doesn't say Class6 so no better than the stuff you have.
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| 27th Aug 2018 5:26 pm |
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reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
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Thanks. Do you chaps just bleed the one caliper you're changing or run round all four? I’ve always been in the habit of doing them all if I open the system but perhaps theres no need?
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| 27th Aug 2018 5:33 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
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no, just do the one, as long at the tank has had plenty of fluid in it at all times.
You don't want to empty the tank on these, otherwise you need a diagnostic tool
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| 27th Aug 2018 5:35 pm |
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reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
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Great. Thanks. That speeds things up!
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| 27th Aug 2018 5:37 pm |
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reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
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Just wanted to say thanks for the help on this. All bled and the fluid level hardly dropped at all.
Quite a simple job really, but i do wish the calipers came with the copper washers that you need to replace when changing them. I didnt realise they were needed and so had to rush out to buy some after removing the caliper (if i hadnt melted the old washer as i was trying to anneal it it might have been ok!)
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| 29th Aug 2018 2:35 pm |
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