What's a half decent compressor to replace an AMK that looks like it's on it's way out?
And it needs to be the best value as I've already thrown most of my money at this vehicle...
TIA
Adri
13th May 2019 12:00 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
Remove it, strip down the externals, clean and rebuild it yourself. Leave the piston alone as its likely to be fine. (unless it has been overrunning for a long time)
So. new desiccant and filters and a general clean of all components should see you out for less than £50.
Easiest job you will do on her yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
13th May 2019 2:04 am
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
Thx.
Had a scout on ebay and can't see any service kits. Any suggestions as to where to get the dessicant and filters?
Adri
13th May 2019 7:53 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
Hitachi desiccant and filters will do fine, you just need to cut the filters to size for the AMK. They're easily available if you search for the Hitachi compressor kit! yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
Just about every mechanic and shop say it won't last and I'll be back to buy a new compressor....we'll see...
13th May 2019 3:06 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
Yup that's it. I've rebuilt a good many of these, with some needing the job redone after a few years, but most if not all are still running. Don't remove the motor or the piston as its tricky, and no point unless you have a replacement.
You can remove the cyl head cover, clean it and check the gasket (seal) Remove any white corrosion with a light stiff brush, but do not scrape off the protective clear coat on the alloy!! If the seal is perished or damaged you can use a thin smear of Tech 7 and reattach. Everything else is plastic and can be disassembled. Using compressed air clean and everything and lubricate exh valve etc with silicone spray.
The success will depend on the condition of the motor and piston assy. However in my experience these are robust, and I have only once needed to replace them, beyond that it really is simple stuff. You needn't bother trying to remove the compressor bracket as its bolts are probably seized. Instead, remove the bottom vibration dampers, the electrical and voss air connectors, and simply slide it out towards you. If you then want to remove the bracket it will now be much easier.
If it works, you're sorted for peanuts and have learnt something along the way, but saving £££'s.
If it doesn't you've still learnt something Good luck!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
13th May 2019 3:57 pm
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
PROFSR G Great Help. Thanks!!!!
13th May 2019 4:05 pm
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
Is there any need to change the relay? I keep hearing mention of the relay being changed when installing a new compressor.
13th May 2019 4:08 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
A dodgy relay can damage the motor so yes it's a good idea as well as being cheap!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
13th May 2019 4:15 pm
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
So I've got the dessicant and o rings on the way.
And ordered a new relay.
Is there anything else I'll need to do the compressor service? Do I need the 'captive nuts' according to the walk through by Disco_Mikey?
Replacement tubes?
Any suggestions most welcome.
13th May 2019 9:58 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
If you're going to remove the bracket its best to have them. However as I suggested earlier you can extract the unit by removing the vibro dampers under the compressor, and then pull the compressor forward and out. Its a little fiddly but easy. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
13th May 2019 10:53 pm
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
OK Thanks for that.
Will be having a go in the next couple of days.
13th May 2019 11:55 pm
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
Compressor removed and dessicant/filters replaced. Compressor was AMK with date stamp 09/2014.
C1a20 fault returned...
So now trying to replace air reservoir tank. One arriving tomorrow morning.
If that doesn't resolve it I'll have to order a new compressor....ugh!
24th May 2019 1:46 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
Latest observations on Gallery Pressure (GP). Tested with live data and repeated 3 times in a mile drive.
GP up to 1600-1700kpa and I drive and then shortly after amber bong. GP a second later drops to around 150kpa and builds to 380kpa which it stays at.
That repeated 3 times after clearing the fault code. Code is C1a20. Presssure increasing too slowly.
My question is...is the pressure drop the fault? Or is the pressure drop the car responding defensively to a fault? So it's protecting itself by limiting driving to normal height only.
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you've still learnt something 
Good luck!
