Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
Car cut out.....likely turbo issue (? fixed)
So, three weeks in, and aside from what is probably battery related ‘HDC faults’ on starting and my steering wheel wiring harness issue, car cut out on me.
Had just finished a gentle climb at about 60 with a corner at the top, pushed the button to reengage cruise control, at car felt like it hit a flood road.
Slowed instantly
MIL light flashed (think orange, was only a second)
HDC fault flashed
Special programs off
Car would not go above 30 mph.
Put foot down on accelerator, seemed to kick down, but still not above 30
Into command shift mode, and can’t go above 3rd gear and 30 mph
No hazard, suspension stayed at standard height, ODB2 reporting battery voltage 13.6-13.7 when this happened.
Pull over and quiz OBD2 diagnostics. No fault codes.
Turn off. Turn on, starts no problem.
Requiz OBD2, still no faults; no pending, no confirmed, no permanent.
Had the CJB out about 3 weeks ago to change the leaking sunroof drain elbow, and no sign of water damage or corrosion.
No further issues on return home, and still no codes in system.
Where to start?
Last edited by XDAndy on 11th Feb 2018 8:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total
8th Feb 2018 12:33 pm
life - live it
Member Since: 14 Apr 2017
Location: Behind you
Posts: 1022
? Alternator on its way out
8th Feb 2018 1:23 pm
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
I guess it’s possible, but I’m was being reassured (perhaps naivelyj that system voltage almost immediately recovers to about 14 volts after starting.
13.7 was with seat warmer, heater fan, radio and iPhone charging in auxiliary power socket, with Carista OBD2 reader in diagnostic socket.
Battery is only 13/14 months old, but is (only) 100Ah.
I know manual says 90 or 110, so assuming the 110 is for higher spec models, so battery may be underrated for the car?
8th Feb 2018 1:30 pm
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
Thanks Bodsy
Massive thanks to Bodsy who did a IID diagnostic scan for me this morning.
Looking like the issue is my turbo, and hoping it’s just the actuator arm.
Will get searching the forum, and hopefully see if releasing it will fix it.
PS: looking like the IID tool is going to be essential
9th Feb 2018 3:07 pm
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
Update
So, another massive thanks to Bodsy and his diagnostic report.
Decided to try tackle the turbo actuator arm, thanks to Landy71 and Stay Frosty for a great guide and photos!, as Bodsy felt that was the most likely cause, and a helluva lot cheaper than a new turbo .....
So, some feedback on my process .....
Access
Guides suggest removing the front passanger wheel, correctly, and one YouTube vid even suggested removing the top wishbone.
So, set about removing the wheel.
Jack : check
Wheel chocks : check
Wheel nut wrench : check
Locking wheel nut : where the hell is the locking wheel nut???
Seems that I did not get it with the car when I bought it 4 weeks ago. No clue where[/b] it is, but hopefully previous owner will find it.
Game over? Not quite.
Put the car into off-road, turned the wheel to lock to the right, then jacked it up until the wheel just lifted from the ground.
Gave plenty enough access to nuts to get heat shield off.only advice here is you need a long 10mm socket for this
Findings
First obvious thing was
Everything seems to be covered in a counting of oil/thick black gunk.
Used my 2-in-1 modified coat hanger tool (one end turbo actuator manipulation tool, other end steering wheel airbag removal tool) to move the actuator arm through its range of motion a few times.
Key observation here is that the actuator arm was also coated in black thick gunk, judging by what was coming off of the coat hanger.
Result
Wow.
I’d just assumed that the car took a bit of lumbering up now and again when I put my foot on the throttle.
It is a two and a half ton car after all.
But, after moving the actuator through its range, just wow. Foot down, and aside from kick-down, it shifts.
No “will I, won’t I” pause whatsoever.
Assesment
1: I need to go back and properly clean and lubricate the actuator arm
2 : need to get the ecu update to add the turbo actuator arm workout
3 : suspicious this is temporary, as the gunk I saw over everything doesn’t look right
4: you don’t need to take the wheel off!
So, you saw the photo above, what do you think?
I’ll give it a clean and see if it comes back, but concerned the black oily gunk is coming from somewhere it isn’t suppossed to.
Andy
11th Feb 2018 9:40 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Good news Andy.
The coating of oil is likely to be a split in the hose somewhere or possibly just the jubilee clips not done up enough.
But great news on the improvement.
Let me know if you want the update doing or if you’ll get the IID tool and update it that way. Bodsys Brake Bible
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