jack2006
Member Since: 12 Feb 2009
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire
Posts: 106
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Oil Drain pictures for oil pump |
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Flack wrote:jack2006
That 1mm step is critical if its not there then your seal will leak after a short while. If you tap the seal in to far it covers most of the oil drain hole in the casing, this causes a back flow of oil that the seal can't handle so it starts to leak.
You need a leave the seal about 1mm proud of the casing.
Flack
Flack
stripped out gears of old pump and photographed the oil drain hole. Uploaded PDF of pictures to my gallery.
I guess that the issue really is how much oil this drain has to cope with and at what pressure. Also does the crank diameter push the oil seals edges out when fitted so it starts to cover the oil drain??
Jack[/img]
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28th Dec 2012 9:24 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6232
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Jack
I had one that I changed and I put the oil seal flush with the casing and after 50 miles or so it started to leak, I have a document somewhere that shows the the oil seal with the measurements I will see if I can dig it out..
Flack
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29th Dec 2012 10:50 am |
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Cellerdweller
Member Since: 05 Oct 2012
Location: Macclesfield
Posts: 1315
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Hi forgive me butting in as I'm a little confused, I thought from what I have read that a 56 plate car would not have failure issues with the oil pump casing , are you changing the pump as a preventative measure or does it need changing as it could fail ? My belts are due and I plan to do them in the next couple of weeks ( time permitting) and will do the pump if required . Sorry again to butt in
Marc
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29th Dec 2012 11:03 am |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
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Cellerdweller wrote:Hi forgive me butting in as I'm a little confused, I thought from what I have read that a 56 plate car would not have failure issues with the oil pump casing , are you changing the pump as a preventative measure or does it need changing as it could fail ? My belts are due and I plan to do them in the next couple of weeks ( time permitting) and will do the pump if required . Sorry again to butt in
Marc
It goes on chassis number. 56 is right on the change over between an 06 and 07 MY's.
The 10th digit of your chassis number corresponds to the MY, if you want to check your car My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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29th Dec 2012 12:42 pm |
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jack2006
Member Since: 12 Feb 2009
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire
Posts: 106
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Cellerdweller wrote:Hi forgive me butting in as I'm a little confused, I thought from what I have read that a 56 plate car would not have failure issues with the oil pump casing , are you changing the pump as a preventative measure or does it need changing as it could fail ? My belts are due and I plan to do them in the next couple of weeks ( time permitting) and will do the pump if required . Sorry again to butt in
Marc
Marc
From info on the forum and the dealers spec the pump remained the same for my O6 model so probably did not need changing. It just that I tend to worry and for the cost decided to replace it, although I am beginning to wish that I had not.
Looking at my old pump through a bench magnifier I cannot see any stress cracks or otherwise so I think it would have been fine to leave on. I know that the only real way to check the pump is to have it lab tested but I am not going to that trouble. This pump had also had the original belt replaced a couple of weeks ago before being stripped back down to replace the pump.
Although the casting of the 06 appears to be similar to the 07 that have had failures its a good chance that the casting supplier was changed or it was second sourced at some point.
Jack
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29th Dec 2012 3:25 pm |
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Cellerdweller
Member Since: 05 Oct 2012
Location: Macclesfield
Posts: 1315
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Thanks jack I've read through all the threads and have checked the vin as Disco_Mikey suggested ,it's 6a and as I understand this should be ok . To be honest I'm just trying to make the car as reliable as poss as we pull our it tent all over the place ( not with the d3 as yet) and the last place I want to be with my 4 children and swmbo is on the hard shoulder with a broken car . Having said that for the price of the pump and a couple of hours it might be worth it for peace of mind .
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30th Dec 2012 11:09 am |
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ruggedpeak
Member Since: 10 Jun 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 1625
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Disco_Mikey wrote:The 10th digit of your chassis number corresponds to the MY, if you want to check your car
So if its a 56 plate with the chassis number Sallaaa137aXXXXXX then I need to worry? Tony
Club RLD Wheel Protector & Sump Guard
Club 4x4 Info activated
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30th Dec 2012 2:16 pm |
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jack2006
Member Since: 12 Feb 2009
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire
Posts: 106
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Cellerdweller wrote:Thanks jack I've read through all the threads and have checked the vin as Disco_Mikey suggested ,it's 6a and as I understand this should be ok . To be honest I'm just trying to make the car as reliable as poss as we pull our it tent all over the place ( not with the d3 as yet) and the last place I want to be with my 4 children and swmbo is on the hard shoulder with a broken car . Having said that for the price of the pump and a couple of hours it might be worth it for peace of mind .
I had the same thoughts and reason for changing the pump was because I tow a 3.5 Ton trailer and often with trips to Europe collecting machines. Had a break down a while ago with my 300TDI fully loaded and would not want to do a repeat of that one!
I must admit after reading some of the posts on this forum re the 3 and 4 though I now wondering if my impending change to the D4 will not happen and look for an alternative. Shame really as the D3 over the last 4 years has been brilliant as dual purpose vehicle and used daily carrying equipment for my work.
Jack
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30th Dec 2012 3:05 pm |
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Cellerdweller
Member Since: 05 Oct 2012
Location: Macclesfield
Posts: 1315
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Ours is just used as a family vehicle and we have only owned it since oct, it took me three months to find one that I thought was worth buying ,there is some terrible examples out there . I new the belts were getting due but that doesn't bother me as I work in the motor trade however I had not heard of the failing oil pump until I joined the forum . I think I will change it then as we said I can have peace of mind .
In response to rugged peaks question from what I understand there is reason for concern with a 7a vin .
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30th Dec 2012 9:36 pm |
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jack2006
Member Since: 12 Feb 2009
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire
Posts: 106
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Flack wrote:Jack
I had one that I changed and I put the oil seal flush with the casing and after 50 miles or so it started to leak, I have a document somewhere that shows the the oil seal with the measurements I will see if I can dig it out..
Flack
Flack
Swapped out the crankshaft/oil pump seal yesterday, there was no oil evident around it and I had done around 300 odd miles so think it would have been fine to be left. looking at the pump casting the oil that the seal would 'see' is at sump pressure, so I would have thought not a great deal of oil.
The seal width was measured at 7mm and if it is seated 1mm below flush surface of the outer case of oil pump its internal face would end where the oil pump drain hole started. This dimension also means that the seal would have its full 7mm depth as an interference fit on the oil pump body.
If the seal was left 1mm proud of the oil pump face there would only be 5mm of the 7mm of oil seal in the oil pump case because the oil pump has a 1mm chamfer on its outer face where the seal fits.
Jack
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1st Jan 2013 6:12 pm |
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jack2006
Member Since: 12 Feb 2009
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire
Posts: 106
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jack2006 wrote:Flack wrote:Jack
I had one that I changed and I put the oil seal flush with the casing and after 50 miles or so it started to leak, I have a document somewhere that shows the the oil seal with the measurements I will see if I can dig it out..
Flack
Flack
Swapped out the crankshaft/oil pump seal yesterday, there was no oil evident around it and I had done around 300 odd miles so think it would have been fine to be left. looking at the pump casting the oil that the seal would 'see' is at sump pressure, so I would have thought not a great deal of oil.
The seal width was measured at 7mm and if it is seated 1mm below flush surface of the outer case of oil pump its internal face would end where the oil pump drain hole started. This dimension also means that the seal would have its full 7mm depth as an interference fit on the oil pump body.
If the seal was left 1mm proud of the oil pump face there would only be 5mm of the 7mm of oil seal in the oil pump case because the oil pump has a 1mm chamfer on its outer face where the seal fits.
Jack
Just got back from trip to France to collect some machines and no problems doing 1100 odd miles with 3.5 trailer fully loaded, so the LR was working hard. Hopefully I will now be ok and although it gave me a few worries over the last couple of weeks would struggle to do without it!! I think its a bit of a 'love hate' relationship!
Must admit that I always dreaded the day I would have to do maintenance on it, but this web site is really really excellent and hats off to Flack and the other sponsers who take the trouble to make it what it is, thanks guys, appreciated,
Jack
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6th Jan 2013 8:48 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6232
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Glad your sorted Jack..
Flack
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7th Jan 2013 12:14 am |
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tareqyounis
Member Since: 31 Aug 2014
Location: corona , CA
Posts: 25
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I replaced the oil seal without the tool, unfortunately it still leaked, I went ahead and purchased the tool and installed a new seal using the tool, sadly its still leaking, is it possible that there might be something wrong with the crankshaft surface? does the oil seal wear out the crankshaft surface over time?
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12th Aug 2015 8:03 am |
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Landscapejohno
Member Since: 13 Jul 2015
Location: Melton Mowbray
Posts: 123
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Re: How to Change the Oil Pump casing |
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Flack wrote:Guys just done this how to today located in my gallery..I have done this because of all the cam belt tensioners that have failed because of the oil pump casing breaking in this position.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...sioner.pdf
Flack
Can't seem to see the link?
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9th Jan 2016 8:11 pm |
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