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changed thermostat and pump, car overheating, need help.
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Landthree
 


Member Since: 22 May 2015
Location: California
Posts: 27

United States 
changed thermostat and pump, car overheating, need help.

my coolant level indicator has been coming on and I have been adding coolant to the reservoir for a few months. Suddenly last week the car overheated and coolant started blowing from my thermostat housing. I discover the thermostat housing cracked. I was able to restart the car when cold and proceeded to drive home, the temp rose again and I pulled over.

After replacing the thermostat housing completely, the car over heated again because I had pinched the O-ring in the center piece and coolant started to spew out and the car over heated again. Replaced the whole part new again, used thermostat sealant, installed complete thermostat together as one piece to avoid O-ring disaster.

While I was in there I decided to replace water pump.

Where the coolant was leaking from the thermo housing I saw a lot of glue like coolant build up. So I decided to flush the whole radiator and coolant hoses. I even flushed the engine coolant openings.

Car is over heating. Starts cold and then when the heat builds up and the fan kicks in the temp in the gauge starts rising. Upper hose that connects directly to thermostat is real hard from pressure. I thought it was a failed thermostat plug so I removed the thermostat from the housing and still the car overheated and the pressure build up is the same on the upper hose.

I though it may be "air lock" so when coolant was added and car idled I made sure to 1/4 twist the coolant cap and let the air work its way out. Did this for 15 minutes.

I am beat about the whole job. Can someone offer me some help or trouble shooting?

My next step is to flush radiator again thoroughly. My fear is that I may have a cracked engine or broken gasket from the overheating.

Can someone draw the flow of coolant? I have provided the image below. I am at a lost and any help would be appreciated.


  
Post #15584319th Nov 2015 8:02 am
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M3DPO
 


Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 4175

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Baltic BlueDiscovery 3

Symptoms of a blown cylinder head gasket, fill the water expansion bottle until it overflows and don't fit the cap, start the engine and look for bubbles coming out of the water, if there are bubbles in the water and coming out of the filler one of the head gaskets have blown. Thumbs Up
 It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't. 
 
Post #15584409th Nov 2015 8:17 am
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Russell
 


Member Since: 23 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 9540

United Kingdom 

Is there not a nimber of bleed points to help release the air, have you openned these?

As for head gasket, get it sniffed/pressure tested at a local garage to see if they think the haed gasket has gone.
 MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
MY15 D4 HSE Kaikoura Stone
MY12 D4 HSE Nara Bronze Sold and gone
MY11 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey Sold and gone
D3 S spec Silver Sold and gone
Tow bar, full length roof bars, side steps, tow bar storage unit, surround camers.
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Post #15584479th Nov 2015 8:39 am
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M3DPO
 


Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 4175

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Baltic BlueDiscovery 3

There is certainly a bleed screw on the top of the engine at the end of a hose and if it has not been bled this may well cause hot spots and prevent the water circulating Thumbs Up there is also one one the expansion bottle that I know off.
 It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't. 
 
Post #15584519th Nov 2015 8:46 am
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Landthree
 


Member Since: 22 May 2015
Location: California
Posts: 27

United States 

exact bleeding points would be helpful, thank you.

my LR3 engine bay navigation is novice at best Mr. Green

How do you properly bleed the coolant? and how many liters of coolant?

As far as diagram, I found this one but do not see the thermostat housing.

  
Post #15584539th Nov 2015 8:49 am
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M3DPO
 


Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 4175

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Baltic BlueDiscovery 3

The bleed screws are black plastic type buttons with a large cross on the end to undo them with, the main one is on the end of a hose clipped onto the highest point of the red pipe in your diagram, the other is on the top of the expansion bottle.
The fact you have a glue type liquid escaping can also be a symptom of a head gasket, this is a product of engine oil mixing with water, check the oil level to see if it has gone up, also check inside the oil filler cap to see if there is any of this "mayonnaise " sticky stuff there.

As you haven't filled in you vehicle description I assume you have a TDV6 Exclamation although the symptoms are the same for any engine the bleed screws will be in a slightly different position.
 It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't. 
 
Post #15584709th Nov 2015 9:22 am
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Landthree
 


Member Since: 22 May 2015
Location: California
Posts: 27

United States 

My engine oil light came on after the 2nd installation where I pinched the O-ring and the car over heated. I checked my dip stick and it dry. So I added a 4 liters of new oil.

the purple mayonnaise was only present where the coolant leak appeared on the thermo housing. afterwards when I reinstalled it the purple mayonnaise was no longer present. I know because I reinstalled it twice.

I remember seeing a cross plug black plastic at the end of the thermostat housing. and yes I see the one on top of the coolant reservoir.

2005 4.4 V8 LR3

  
Post #15584799th Nov 2015 9:35 am
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Landthree
 


Member Since: 22 May 2015
Location: California
Posts: 27

United States 

That is a very hard screw to unscrew at the end of the thermostat housing assembly.

turn the car on for 10 minutes, blasted the heater, temperature rose half way but the air coming out of the heater was cold.

left the reservoir cap off while I started the car the whole 10 minutes, no burbling or bubbles.
  
Post #15584979th Nov 2015 10:04 am
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Russell
 


Member Since: 23 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 9540

United Kingdom 

Landthree wrote:
My engine oil light came on after the 2nd installation where I pinched the O-ring and the car over heated. I checked my dip stick and it dry. So I added a 4 liters of new oil.

the purple mayonnaise was only present where the coolant leak appeared on the thermo housing. afterwards when I reinstalled it the purple mayonnaise was no longer present. I know because I reinstalled it twice.

I remember seeing a cross plug black plastic at the end of the thermostat housing. and yes I see the one on top of the coolant reservoir.

2005 4.4 V8 LR3



I do not think that is a bleed screw
 MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
MY15 D4 HSE Kaikoura Stone
MY12 D4 HSE Nara Bronze Sold and gone
MY11 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey Sold and gone
D3 S spec Silver Sold and gone
Tow bar, full length roof bars, side steps, tow bar storage unit, surround camers.
D4 camera club 
 
Post #15585079th Nov 2015 10:20 am
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Landthree
 


Member Since: 22 May 2015
Location: California
Posts: 27

United States 

to be clear I have a USA 4.4 Liter V8 engine

I don't even have this hose (pictured)





  
Post #15585119th Nov 2015 10:24 am
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Bungle
 


Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Wanborough
Posts: 88

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

I too have the 4.4l petrol engine (though I am UK rather then US) and I also struggled to bleed the thing after changing a thermostat a few weeks ago and had similar problems to you. Two tips from me that solved my problems:

1. Refill the system as much as you can through the thermostat housing - i.e. undo the three self tappers that access the thermostat (you don't have to disturb the coolant manifold itself) and pour the coolant down there - this effectively "primes" the water pump.

2. Once you have done this, top up the exapansion tank with the bleed screws OPEN (one on the top of the expansion tank and one in the T piece over top of the engine at the back of the throttle body. But then make sure you close them BEFORE you start the engine. The one on the top of the engine was actually drawing air back in when the system was circulating!

Once I did this it bled up no trouble at all.
  
Post #15585719th Nov 2015 12:08 pm
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M3DPO
 


Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 4175

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Baltic BlueDiscovery 3

If the engine has overheated to the degree of burning 4 litres of oil it could have done almost in-repairable damage.
You have almost certainly got an air lock in the system, don't use the car until you have got rid of it as it will cause localised overheating and cause further damage, the water cannot circulate while there is an airlock in the system, when you have bled the system do the check that I have put in previous post, if it is ok I suggest you do an oil change to remove the remainder of the burnt oil, see photo below for bleed plug, this is on a TDV6.
Some one will be along shortly who knows more about the V8 than me Thumbs Up

Edit: follow Bungles advice above Thumbs Up - it may be easier to undo a hose that is highest to get the air out, and please fill your profile in so we know what vehicle you have.
 It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't. 
 
Post #15585739th Nov 2015 12:19 pm
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Landthree
 


Member Since: 22 May 2015
Location: California
Posts: 27

United States 

Here is what I did:

left cap open while engine was running, turn on heater inside car, left it running until the tubes on both side of the thermostat housing was hot.

bubbles did not stop coming out from the lower tube in the reservoir. consistent air bubbles coming out once engine temperature were up.

There was no pressure or heat coming from the 2 tubes heading in to the interior of the car, I believe these two tubes on the passenger side are for the heater. The heater never got warm, just cold air.

All other coolant tubes was hot and I could feel the coolant running through them when I squeezed them.

Temp started to rise so I shut the car off after 15 minutes.

When I removed the hoses connected to the thermostat from both end there was enough coolant there that pouring on one end had coolant coming out from other side. Same was for the radiator.

For sure the car was not heating up and the 2 lines going to the heater was cold. Failed heater?
  
Post #15586859th Nov 2015 4:25 pm
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M3DPO
 


Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 4175

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Baltic BlueDiscovery 3

Air lock in your heater!
 It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't. 
 
Post #15587019th Nov 2015 4:55 pm
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NJSS
 


Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 5636

United Kingdom 2016 Discovery 4 TDV6 Landmark LE Auto Waitomo GreyDiscovery 4

I think it would be prudent to test for a cylinder head gasket leak; this kit is quite good:-

http://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-Combust...B000NPDL76

Good luck

NJSS
 2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, owned from new
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel 
 
Post #15587059th Nov 2015 5:00 pm
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