Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 268
Yep, I've just had one of these RTFM moments!
Click image to enlarge
Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
16th Dec 2023 10:45 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
Lazy statement by them.
And doesn’t take into account items that wear/age (clock spring)
17th Dec 2023 10:03 am
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 268
Well, to be fair it does confirm that the OP's fault code is most likely to be in the wiring between switches and ECU (as you correctly said!) which would include the clockspring.
I'm not sure where that particular ECU lives, though. Is it one of the ones behind the battery - that is prone to getting water ingress and can get accidentally knocked about when replacing the battery?Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
17th Dec 2023 10:20 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
Searching that fault code on here shows several threads of ppl changing their clock spring with pictures.
I’m surprised the voltages aren’t more out. But I suspect the faults in the steering wheel area
I’m wondering maybe worth blasting the rear drums inside with wd40 as maybe they’re sticking from recent water wading
?????????????????.
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
17th Dec 2023 10:30 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
Adding wd40 or grease to brakes make them not work. Rather dangerous
17th Dec 2023 10:56 am
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Hey up
Yeah I mean wd40 the springs in the drums in case the brake pads were sticking due to water ingress as there are rusted holes in the rear plates that are to protect from water and associating it with the recent deep water drive
I do remember the new battery change being very difficult and needing to force it out/in - maybe the cc ECU got banged or damaged if it’s behind the battery. I’ll have a careful inspection now and see if anything looks off
I just noticed now driving slow in 1st gear I can hear a rubbing / slight grinding sound somewhere. Wondering maybe if I could have knocked the clutch plate from recently driving in sand mode for extra power in 1st and 2nd gear was pretty rough on the car. I’m praying it’s not the clutch as I just forked out over a grand for new gear box and clutch and flywheel 😢
Wheels are still just slightly warm but right side more so today. Very odd. But not had any rumbling for a few days now.
Somethings definitely amiss I’m thinking the rumbling and slight grinding is going to be the cause of the cc
I’ll drive again now in 1st and see if the rubbing changes when I press the brake and again when I press the clutch maybe that will give a clue
My intuition is telling me it’s not the steering wheel or clock
But then again the steering wheel stereo buttons were acting odd the other week weren’t responding properly
I’ll have a quick drive now and then try remove the steering air bag and look at the clock spring and wiring too
Come back with some more info after digging aroundDisco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
17th Dec 2023 11:53 am
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 268
If the other steering wheel buttons have also recently shown problems then that would seem too much of a coincidence. It all points to the clock-spring.
With regard to the other issues, remember, this is a Land Rover and "Hickams dictum" applies.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hickam%27s_dictumPreviously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
17th Dec 2023 12:23 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
They should make a Land Rover rage room 🤣Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
17th Dec 2023 12:26 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4658
They did,... and I think you found it yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
17th Dec 2023 3:54 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
DONE IT!!!!
One of the few successful attempts 😅😅😅
So I removed the clock spring module and sprayed all the terminals with brake cleaner whilst checking the wires were in tact etc
Put it back together and sprayed the buttons externally to get inside
Quick test drive and it works fine!
(For now)
Hopefully whatever I did remains good!
Thank you everyone proper proud moment ha usually by now I’m fuming and frustrated having wasted hours with no success at the end
Must have been some terminal corrosion unsure how maybe moisture caught inside
Also I have removed the diagnostic tool plug socket and moved it to behind the hatch under the steering wheel and left the GAP plugged in for now. It’s flashing blue and I’ll see how well the voltage holds up overnight left in. But it’s no longer flashing red.
Temperamental things these cars aren’t they!
Next up the rear upper bushes and MOT Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
17th Dec 2023 4:01 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Alls well still
And the back wheel getting hot is ceased calliper, shot disc and pads 🙃Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
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