Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Cruise control
Hi all
My cruise control has stopped working the last week ish
Reset the code using my GAP the first time and it worked again. But now keeps coming back and won’t work, even if I clear the code it returns immediately.
I have done a hard reset on the car just in case and that hasn’t worked either.
Wonder if anyone has seen this code before or may have any clues where to start please and thanks
Click image to enlarge
Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
13th Dec 2023 10:02 pm
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 268
I think the GAP Tool should be able to let you look at the live values for the Cruise Control switch, to see if it is registering properly as on/off. The switch and wiring (including the clock-spring) would probably be the starting point for investigation, but if the transmission is slipping, the CC will also throw a wobbly.
On my manual FL2, the CC would drop out on hills due to a slightly slipping dual-mass flywheel and I believe that the same applies if there is a slip in the transmission of the automatic. What happens if you switch it on going downhill?
Having said that, my CC behaves strangely and my transmission is probably slipping a bit, but I've not had any codes from it. I press it on, the speed drops, then roars away alarmingly to above the set speed, then settles back to the speed that I set it to.Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
14th Dec 2023 7:37 am
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 268
Hmmm... duplicate post! All I got was an error message to say that I had been blocked from posting!
I see plenty of other duplicate posts this morning, so it must be a site glitch, rather than something personal! Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
14th Dec 2023 7:41 am
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Hey Worms
Thanks for the reply
So if I go up or down hill or level ground, the cruise control does not work at all
I have done some research and checked the brake switch (blue thing) on the pedal and it appears fine and the slider pin moves freely
I looked at fuses as I recently was messing with them doing a parasitic drain test and see fuse f30 (auto transmission ECU) has a fuse - I do vaguely remember putting an extra fuse in where I thought one was missing. My car is a manual not an auto - do you think this should be removed or am I mistaken and it should be in? Maybe this is wrong?
I looked on my GAP as per the websites instructions to see the instrument pack, which states it is enabled
I went to live values with the engine off (cos driving with the GAP plugged in throws all sorts of errors) and I can’t understand what it is I need to look for? The values are zero as seen in attached image
How would I test the cc with my GAP to see where it is directing to the fault please?
I’ve been warned to be careful with settings as it can cause mad problems so I’m reluctant to play
I did play with the steering angle sensor months ago and it started causing suspension problems. So I kept resetting it on a flat surface until it stopped the issue. It’s been fine for months since. But maybe could be related or maybe not haha
I have noticed an intermittent rumbling from the rear of the car seems to be when the car is warmed up and over 50mph. Oddly the rear wheels either side get very hot and depending on what mood the car is in, again maybe unrelated. I did an unjam on the EPB yesterday a few times wondering if it was sticking maybe.
2 weeks ago I also was in car teaching my son about emergency stops so wondering maybe this could be related. Or maybe not.
Just trying to list anything I’ve done that may give clues
Hopefully you can help from the info I’ve given
Cheers
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
15th Dec 2023 2:42 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
P0579
Go
Live values
Tdv6
Select these and view :
Speed control input voltage
Speed control input.
When steering wheel + or resume is pressed you should see the value change
3.14v and 3.77v respectivly
And “Speed Control” displayed when button pressed.
If not , probably need a clock spring
Last edited by Pete K on 17th Dec 2023 10:05 am. Edited 3 times in total
15th Dec 2023 3:07 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Alright Pete..
Thanks and here’s the results:
Press + I get 3.54v
Press - I get 2.15
Press resume I get 3.99v
Press 0 I get 1.6v
Does this indicate it’s working but something else is causing it to shut off?Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
15th Dec 2023 3:19 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
If the rear calipers are very hot they probably need replacing.
If the heat is nearer the Center drum, could be park brake
15th Dec 2023 3:20 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
I did the rear brake pads and new sliders 2 months ago and they have been working fine. Also aerviced and adjusted the EPB shoes and springs same time. All has been fine since.
The rear left 2 days ago smelled like burning but then yesterday was fine. Right wheel was got a week ago. But the other day left wheel was very hot. But today both were mildly warm after a 40 minute drive at 50mph.
When I pressed the epb flick switch yesterday to test it the hand brake felt a lot stronger than usual. It used to just gently slow down but it felt like it was very reactive.
I’m on school run now so I’ll give it a thrash and feel around underneath.
Would you say readjust the brakes and start from scratch is wise in relation to the cc?
No codes coming up and the brakes have all been fine for ages
Maybe all the deep water driving from last month could have ceased the drum shoes
Thanks as alwaysDisco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
15th Dec 2023 3:27 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
Those voltages look too high to me. But would be good for someone else with working switches to confirm.
15th Dec 2023 3:33 pm
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 268
EDIT: Too slow in typing and everything that I said has already been confirmed above! Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
15th Dec 2023 4:01 pm
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 268
cmb2020 wrote:
Alright Pete..
Thanks and here’s the results:
Press + I get 3.54v
Press - I get 2.15
Press resume I get 3.99v
Press 0 I get 1.6v
Does this indicate it’s working but something else is causing it to shut off?
Mine:
Press + I get 3.13v
Press - I get 1.25
Press resume I get 3.77v
Press 0 I get 0.620vPreviously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
15th Dec 2023 4:05 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
Worms. Yeah I get the same +/- 0.01v
15th Dec 2023 4:24 pm
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 268
cmb, since you describe a number of sensor faults and strange behaviour from your GAP Tool when driving, I wonder if it is worth adding battery health and earth wiring to your list for investigation?Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
15th Dec 2023 4:38 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Hey up
Done a few long journeys and the rear wheels have been absolutely fine, the rear left one was ever so slightly warm but nothing in comparison to the other day nor any rumbling.
The GAP going awol I believe the plug socket it’s self is dodgy as I have to wiggle the GAP sometimes for it to register and the LED to flash. Sometimes it’s red. Sometimes the plug is fine connected res while driving I can clear codes. But other times when plugged in driving it drops the suspension etc.
I’ll remove and relocate the gap plug socket and see if it’s got any loose connections tomorrow
Earth wiring - do you mean the one under the front bumper? I did earth the engine block to the body a while ago and made no difference when I was diagnosing the long standing power drain issue
Battery health - I have a brand new exide ea1000 one of three recent new batteries. So surely can’t be that.
Could it be possible the plug socket for the diagnostic tool being dodgy could be the cause of the cc?
Or maybe whatever caused the rumbling could be the issue?
I’m wondering maybe worth blasting the rear drums inside with wd40 as maybe they’re sticking from recent water wading
ThanksDisco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
16th Dec 2023 9:55 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
Nah. Your cruise fault is probably one of these.
1 clock spring between steering wheel and car
2 switch pack on wheel
3 wiring
4 corrosion on engine ecu plugs. But I wouldn’t go messing
with that else you may end up with bigger problems!
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