Member Since: 19 Jan 2011
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 12319
I did read on one of the many threads that I trawled through about Cteks that if you are fitting the comfort cable it's best to use the earth down by the FBH, from what I remember it has to be this way on a D4 due to the battery management software or unit (I think).
I've just ordered the MXS7 from Amazon on Prime so it should be here tomorrow Cheers Ian
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24th Jan 2016 4:20 pm
Hairy Dan
Member Since: 19 Jan 2011
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 12319
BBDisco3 wrote:
You just need a longer lead to reach from your desk
Cheers Ian
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24th Jan 2016 4:22 pm
LandPhil
Member Since: 25 Apr 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 197
The negative terminal has a bit of kit attached to it that senses voltages from the alternator when charging. I'm not a "Lecci" but a Land Rover Assisst Techie who came out to me when I was having problems with my RRS told me never connect the negative lead of a charger directly to the battery.FFRR Westminster TDV8
D4 HSE MY12 Aintree Green. Great car
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Freelander2 SD4 HSE-Best car I have ever owned.
24th Jan 2016 5:00 pm
DaveDisco3
Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Gretton, Northamptonshire.
Posts: 597
So, the safest way is to remove it really.D3 Tonga HSE 2005
Sport body kit
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24th Jan 2016 5:47 pm
Hairy Dan
Member Since: 19 Jan 2011
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 12319
I think it's fine to do a D3 battery in situ (any experts to confirm) but as this is a thread in the D4 section there is a way to charge them in situ by not connecting both terminals to the battery. Cheers Ian
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Why the 7 instead of the 10 ?D4 2010 HSE Santorini Black
D3 2005 SE Java Black - p/x to D4
D2 2001 GS - p/x to D3
D1 1998 - p/x to D2
24th Jan 2016 5:57 pm
Hairy Dan
Member Since: 19 Jan 2011
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 12319
I can't see it being used that much and the 7 does everything the 10 does but only slower Cheers Ian
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24th Jan 2016 6:45 pm
Dudleydisco
Member Since: 20 Jun 2014
Location: York
Posts: 853
The reason for connecting the -ve to chassis ground rather than the -ve battery terminal is that the BMS needs to sense any current going into the battery to work correctly. A lot of us have been charging our D4 batteries in situ with no problems.
If you are using a CTEK, just make sure that you choose the correct programme for the battery you have - either Wet or AGM D4 MY14 XXV - RLD/IID BT
D4 MY13 HSE Lux - RLD/IID BT
P38 RR - Sad parting
110 - Even sadder parting
S3 88" - Still going strong after 23 years of ownership
An Intelligent Power Management System includes Smart Regenerative Charging so the battery is charged when it is most economical to do so.
Is this the Battery Management System?
If so is there any equivalent on the D3?
To date I have had no perceived problems using my CTEK charger directly connected via a comfort connector to the + ve & - Ve terminals on the battery on my D3.
Should I rewire it? Or do the cautions above only refer to a D4 ?
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
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1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
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24th Jan 2016 9:34 pm
Dudleydisco
Member Since: 20 Jun 2014
Location: York
Posts: 853
For the D4, yes. The BMS controls how the battery takes charge. I don't know about the D3, so can't really comment - sorry D4 MY14 XXV - RLD/IID BT
D4 MY13 HSE Lux - RLD/IID BT
P38 RR - Sad parting
110 - Even sadder parting
S3 88" - Still going strong after 23 years of ownership
24th Jan 2016 9:43 pm
Scottydog
Member Since: 03 Aug 2015
Location: Scotland
Posts: 377
I have a CTEK MXS 5.0 test and charge for some time (pre-Disco) a presume this would be ok to charge the Disco via the towing socket.
25th Jan 2016 12:11 am
JksD4
Member Since: 31 Mar 2015
Location: Highlands
Posts: 100
I believe any of the common ctek models are OK to charge through the towing socket. However, I have the MXS 5.0 and it works fine but does take a long time to charge.
I read on the VARTA batteries website that the charging rate is best about 10% per hour of the battery capacity. My MY2010 D4 is fitted with a 90Ah battery, so this would be 9amps optimal, suggesting the MXS 10 would be the best choice, the 7.0 next and the 5.0 least.
I am thinking of getting a mxs10, which would also give me power supply capability for when using my IiD BT.
Click image to enlarge
MY2010 D4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Stornaway grey
25th Jan 2016 4:17 pm
Dudleydisco
Member Since: 20 Jun 2014
Location: York
Posts: 853
The MXS10 seems to be the best choice. It's quite fast, but you can still use all the Comfort Connect leads and accessories - including Martin's patent adapter D4 MY14 XXV - RLD/IID BT
D4 MY13 HSE Lux - RLD/IID BT
P38 RR - Sad parting
110 - Even sadder parting
S3 88" - Still going strong after 23 years of ownership
25th Jan 2016 4:40 pm
DerbyshireDisco
Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 1397
Just ordered a 10 and intend to charge through the towing socket so this thread has come at the correct time.Displaced Yorkshireman.
=^:^=
SDV6 Auto obviously, Loire blue/Ebony, ugly kid glass, RLD wheel protector, private plate and maybe side steps.
25th Jan 2016 4:57 pm
Hairy Dan
Member Since: 19 Jan 2011
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 12319
Well the charger arrived bright and early this morning so it has been on charge since lunchtime, it's currently on ABSORPTION, READY TO USE ANALYSE
The comfort connector does fit the battery
Plugged in and charging
I used the earth stud down by the FBH as mentioned earlier in the thread
The manual states that
BATTERY SIZE (Ah) TIME TO 80% CHARGED
20Ah 2h
50Ah 6h
100Ah 12h
150Ah 17h
I've put the battery box back on now so can't remember what size the D4 battery is Cheers Ian
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