Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
My D3 spec Upgrade (Part 2)
Because of the overwhelmingly warm reception to the post / story I did of my mission to up spec my D3 from Base to Premium Audio has received from you all and the obviously high level of interest in such things, I thought I might add a little follow up.
It’s yet another of my long reads, more of a story towards the end really, (sorry if you had something better or more entertaining to do, ) and I have for the moment given it a thread of its own, lest it be missed by those who so obviously enjoyed reading the last episode of this saga.
I will however prompt a mod to stitch it all together later into a single thread. Well it will make a change from the normal policing and referring that them poor guys have to do I guess.
However because I did not actually have a Logic 7 Amp at the time, I had to temporarily fit a Hi line Amp which also meant I could not fit the door looms, or the memory mirror motors and as such the job in respect of the full infotainment upgrade was incomplete.
I still have yet to whip off my bumpers and add the Fogs, PDC sensors and wiring but for now I just want to finish the infotainment upgrade.
Although just swapping the Amp and the 2 front door looms seems like a small job to finish off, especially compared to swapping out the main loom and other bits, it actually took me near 2 full days, to fit and still I had a couple of problems to sort out.
First here is a picture of the Amp I had been waiting so long to get my hands on, next to the regular Hi Line one. No prizes for guessing which one is the Logic 7 one.
For those who do not know, or might like to learn, I should explain that :
The Low Line Audio system uses an amp built into the single disc head unit to generate 4 channels of 20 watts each (80 total) that it delivers into 6 speakers comprising a tweeter and mid / bass in each front door and a full range in each rear door. Each door gets one channel each from the amp.
The High Line Audio system uses a separate Amp under the drivers seat connected via the fibre optic Most bus to the 6 disc head unit to generate 6 channels of 50 watts each (300 total) that it delivers into 9 speakers comprising a tweeter, a mid / bass in each front door, a tweeter and mid / bass in each rear door and a Sub Woofer in the tailgate. Again each door gets a channel with the remaining 2 going to the sub Woofer.
The Premium Logic 7 Audio system uses the near identical looking, but black, separate Amp under the drivers seat connected via the fibre optic Most bus to the same 6 disc head unit as in High line, however this Amp generates 12 channels of 50 watts each (600 total) that it delivers into 14 speakers comprising a tweeter, a mid and a bass in each front door, a tweeter and mid / bass in each rear door, a Sub Woofer in the tailgate, a surround speaker in each rear D pillar and a centre dash top speaker. Each front door gets 2 channels, each rear door a channel, 2 go to the sub Woofer and 1 goes to the dash centre. Yep I know that’s only 11, but that’s how it is !!!
Both High Line and Premium amps can also support up to 4 head phone sockets in the rear.
One of the reasons I suspect that the Logic 7 Amp costs so much (around 500 GBP) is that the technology is actually licensed by Dolby and is a form of surround sound that is split out of any stereo source. I have Matt TDV6 to thank for helping me acquire a more reasonable cost example off Ebay. But don’t worry I am one of those guys that makes sure what goes around comes around and Matt will be far too busy playing with his new MSV-2 Extreme diagnostic system at the moment to be reading this
Here on the reverse side you can see that the amp has the licensed sticker on it.
After disconnecting the battery of course, I started the job by unbolting the drivers seat and tilting it back to gain access to the Amp area, however the seat kept falling forward while I was working but fortunately, and I know many of their fans will appreciate this picture, I had my usual assistants on hand to help, and the heavier one volunteered to hold it back / counter balance it while I worked.
I disconnected all the plugs and took out the High Line amp, leaving me with all the original connectors and the additional wires temporarily labeled up with their pins on ready to be inserted into the respective holes of the connectors.
I had to move a few original pins over before I could insert all the new ones, then I connected the plugs into the Logic 7 Amp, bolted it in place and tidily routed all the wires as they should be, before bolting the seat back down.
A nice tidy job to be proud of methinks, but little did I know that as I bolted the seat down, I had inadvertently done something that would give me quite some trouble later.
I then fitted my centre dash speaker, I could have done this before but there was no point until I had the Amp. I had to make a bit of a gasket out of sticky backed foam, and in this picture I had not actually screwed it down which was a bit fiddly due to the windscreen.
Next I tackled changing the front door looms. This was a lot trickier and harder that it seemed and the doors had to be almost totally stripped down as you can see. The Main connectors to the body were a real pig to release, requiring quite some figuring out of how the mechanisms were supposed to work, while attempting to embed the brake pedal in my bonce and swallow a torch. If anyone ever needs to release this connector from the car body, please feel free to PM me first for advice, I will certainly help them save on super glue.
The last job I needed to do was to fit the memory type motors in my mirrors in place of the just electric ones. I had expected a second connector on the motors but instead they had a totally different one, I have shown both in my picture, fortunately the new connector accepted a .1 inch pin header to which I soldered the original wires and the new ones that I routed out of the mirror, I expected them to go via other pins on the existing connector but they use a different one which although I had the pins for I did not have the connector bodies, so I pinned them up and connected them one by one to their counterparts, then using heat shrink to hold them together and isolate them.
If anyone has any broken mirrors to donate, I would be most appreciative of them to salvage their wiring and improve this job.
The mirror motors then simply screwed in place
I then connected the battery, connected my trusty Faultmate Extreme, to clear the “ where are my mirror memory bits†faults from the body control, checked all was clear and then gave the mirrors a test, checking their store and recall position capability. Turns out I had the supply to the pots the wrong way round, well to be fair the wiring in the mirrors is not shown in the wiring diagram, but as I had not shrunk the heat shrink, it was a two second fix.
Amazingly, although the memory bit of the wiring was not present in my base door looms, the wiring for both power fold and approach lamps is.
Next I pulled up the CCF data settings with my faultmate and within a few clicks I changed my D3’s amp setting to the Logic 7 one.
Then at last I got to fire it up. I tried it at only a low level because the mids and tweeters on the door pads were still not fitted, and I quickly realized by the absence of any bass from the front doors that the channels were swapped which I corrected by swapping pins on the door connectors, re tried it and satisfied that everything was now wired correctly I fitted the door pads and gave it some welly. I have to say, I was really quite impressed.
I like my bass, and this system now delivers that in bucket loads with some to spare. It also has good all round separation and fidelity. High Ice was nice, but logic 7 is Audio heaven.
The drivers window did not work, quickly fixed by replacing the fuse I had taken out during the channel pin swap, guess I should have disconnected the battery rather than just turn off the stereo.
I drove the car home, really enjoying the new sound and power now at my disposal, but my joy was short lived as the next time I jumped in the car, expecting a more enjoyable than usual drive to work, all infotainment except the radio was as dead as a Dodo and the trip was very quiet except for the odd expletive and the sound of my brain rattling to figure out what could be wrong.
I would have dearly loved to have had a look there and then, but a day at work means just that to me. Customers all over the world have invested in our equipment and have an expectation of me to be committed to helping them, and researching and developing our system further. That is not a commitment I take lightly under any circumstance.
So it was a couple of days before I got half an hour just prior to going home for the day to look at the problem. knowing that the Amp area under the drivers seat was where I had made the most changes, I moved the seat forward and up as far as possible and inspected the wiring. Actually that’s when I took the earlier photo. No problems there
I started checking the fuses. The Infotainment has its own power circuit switched by a relay on the CJB, controlled by the IHU (Head unit) and then distributed after a 10 amp fuse on a blue wire to many of the infotainment items. This does not go to the Amp which is switched on by the MOST bus, but none the less the fuse was indeed blown. I put one of the spare 10 Amp fuse in and the infotainment sprang to life. Shrugged my shoulders as to why, looked forward to a nice drive home and went to move the drivers seat back to its regular position while enjoying the music, the seat moved an inch then pop and silence. Well not total silence but you get the picture I expect. I tied another 10 and it popped immediately, perhaps the extras I now had required more amps I thought, so in went a sacrificial 15 amp to instantly meet the same fate as the pile now growing on the dash. I was going to try a 20 but I fumbled it and it fell down one of the many black holes we all know exist in any car. Out of time, patience and almost all spare fuses I licked my wounds and suffered another almost silent home. I really was missing my all too brief logic 7 experience.
The next half hour I got, I figured I had cracked it when I sussed that I had incorrectly connected the power to my TMC antenna amp to the wrong supply, I had previously though was the Blue infotainment power one. I slapped in my last spare 10 amp and it all worked, until I moved the drivers seat. By now you should be able to write the next sentence yourself using the word silence and expletive.
The next time I was prepared for war and had equipped myself with a bit of kit made from one of the blown fuses off the growing pile with a couple of wires with croc clips on the end, a multi meter, a current protected power supply and an ample supply of the slightly larger 10 amp blade fuses. I had an hour to kill and this time I was determined I was going to find the short on this damned circuit no matter what.
I started by measuring the resistance to ground of the offending circuit which was only 7 to 30 ohms and wavered around like a windmill. This did not actually tell me much though, so I popped one of the bigger blade fuses in which popped right back at me.
Right, you asked for it you little s%&t I muttered as I connected up the power supply to the circuit, straight away the red over current LED on it shone brightly. I angled it so I could see the LED clearly from the drivers side and gripped the handy handle on the drivers seat. I pushed and the red LED steadfastly shone as bright as ever, I pulled, and the LED on the power supply instantly died, the touch screen flickered to show the LR logo and the Amp kicked in to deliver what was music to my ears no matter what was playing. Got ya I shrieked, Pass me the large Torx tubby, this seat is coming out.
Had to get it myself though as ole tubby dog Jerry was snoring on the back seat of the car, I prized off the plastic covers and undid the 2 front bolts, then moved the seat forward and prized off the rear plastic covers. The one nearest the cubby box is a bit of a pig. However before I undid the bolts I looked down between the carpet and it’s under foam and the mounting plate for the seat, and that’s when I first saw it. There the infotainment loom ran close to the seat mount and somehow the blue wire in the infotainment loom was just half under the edge of the seat mount plate nearest the cubby box.
I took several pictures, none of which turned out that clear due to the camera taking focus off the nearer upper seat cover plate mount and the carpet, although here is the best one in which you can just see the blue wire above the yellow one partly under the lower metal plate of the seat.
I nursed it out with a screw driver and a bit of tugging without bothering to remove the bolts and could not actually see any real damage to the wire, but I knew 1000% that’s where the problem had been. so I simply tucked it inside the rest of its loom and pushed it all well clear of the seats metalwork.
I tidied up, but with no fuses left until back up supplies arrive, I pinched one from the washers, Well it is July in Cyprus !!! Speaking of which, time for a very loud expletive free drive home and a few celebratory beers while I sit outside on my patio with my laptop and write up something I hope you all enjoy reading as much as I enjoyed writing.
Warmest regards to all
Colin
26th Jul 2009 5:08 pm
GLYNNE
Member Since: 06 Oct 2006
Location: KENT
Posts: 4645
I struggle to even wash mine
26th Jul 2009 5:13 pm
BBS SPY Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
Are you not married or with kids Glynne,
Actually the track playing on MP3 when i got it going was "Car wash" never heard it so vibrantly before.
And there sure ain't nothing in the D3 that requires alien levels of intelligence to understand and master, and it sure is better than diggin a ditch.
26th Jul 2009 6:38 pm
GLYNNE
Member Since: 06 Oct 2006
Location: KENT
Posts: 4645
Yes I have both, hence why it doesn't need washing
26th Jul 2009 7:11 pm
DigitalJunior
Member Since: 22 Nov 2008
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 4398
Fantastic write-up. Read it from top to bottom. SOLD - 23my Range Rover Sport D300 Dynamic SE
26th Jul 2009 8:05 pm
BBS SPY Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
Thanks DJ, you know when writing, especially as it gets a bit story like, i often wonder to myself if people will really appreciate and enjoy reading it or not. So even the smallest compliment and thumbs up honestly goes such a long long way and i sincerely thank you for your praise and comment of compliment far more than you might at first know.
Did you like the dogs bit LOL.
Colin, those helpers (dogs) are serious layabouts, you seriously need to have a word with them TLO has left the building.......
I no longer work for a Landrover Dealer
My little chilli sauce business http://www.thechillees.co.uk
if you would like to order anything just give me a shout
26th Jul 2009 8:24 pm
BBS SPY Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
Hiya Nick,
Yea they are pretty much useless except for chasing cats out the garden, but you gotta love em all the same LOL
BTW thanks for the birthday piccy, it really really made my day. i sent it to everyone in the office.
I also fired those that said "who's Nick", bloody luddites.
warmest regards
Colin
26th Jul 2009 9:10 pm
matt_tdv6
Member Since: 05 Feb 2009
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 937
Cant you leave that D3 alone for one day
Just managed to pry myself away from the Faultmate Spent all weekend without my laptop due to having XP installed as its much easier than moving my home PC to the workshop everytime
27th Jul 2009 12:51 am
er1c
Member Since: 24 Jan 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 183
It always seems whenever I buy a new vehicle and start to get into the technicalities of it, I stumble upon one or two enthusiasts who have such a deep passion and dedication to understanding it. And as a result, who contributes _significantly_ to the community. You, sir, are definitely a true inspiration and priceless asset to LR3 owners all over the world. The best part is that you've found a way to capitalize off of your knowledge with a product that has undeniably become such an indispensable tool.
Kudos to you, Colin. Kudos to you.
P.S. I'm putting money aside weekly, so I can join the club of MSV-2 owners, too. The anxiety of yearning to get my hands on my own is a killer (to say the least!) I hope to be filling out an order form on your site and acquiring my own SV222 kit by the coming summer. (I've saved up half so far. I can't wait.)
I wish you the best of luck in your future endeavors. But, judging from your well established success, I don't think you'll need any luck--- just more of the hard-work that you exemplify so well.
Thanks for the motivation,
-Eric
7th Mar 2011 4:50 am
Chicken Duck
Member Since: 11 Nov 2009
Location: Italy
Posts: 1387
er1c wrote:
It always seems whenever I buy a new vehicle and start to get into the technicalities of it, I stumble upon one or two enthusiasts who have such a deep passion and dedication to understanding it. And as a result, who contributes _significantly_ to the community. You, sir, are definitely a true inspiration and priceless asset to LR3 owners all over the world. The best part is that you've found a way to capitalize off of your knowledge with a product that has undeniably become such an indispensable tool.
Kudos to you, Colin. Kudos to you.
Well said sir and a from me
7th Mar 2011 11:32 am
BBS SPY Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
Thank you so very much for your kind, appreciative and also inspiring comments Eric.
I look forward to welcoming you to the MSV-2 Owners club and i am sure you will appreciate having one all the more when you get it.
In the meantime i will indeed press on with future endeavors, which includes adding even more capability to the MSV-2 for D3 / LR3's
Thank you too DD,
7th Mar 2011 4:57 pm
Will Hay
Member Since: 04 Oct 2010
Location: Beautiful Yorkshire
Posts: 613
GLYNNE wrote:
I struggle to even wash mine....
They say it's all in the timing D3 incl. genuine glass windscreen, front bi-focal headlights, full width rear bumper, self levelling washer bottle contents and audible 'tick tock' indicator stalk
911 GT3 had one [never]
R8 V12 just gone [past me]
Piiss highest up a wall winner runner up 1979
7th Mar 2011 7:58 pm
Baben
Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Kyalami
Posts: 2059
Beautiful write-up Colin
I have just installed a logic7 in my '06 SE D3, and this was most helpful
Just 2 questions please:
1) what amp type should be selected in the CCF?
2) have you got the pinout for the grey connector please?
sincere thanks again
13th Jun 2012 8:55 am
BBS SPY Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
Cheers Baben
I don't know why more do not do this TBH, the difference is amazing, not only do you get twice the power but much better spacial separation and stereo effects.
Of course i added the extra speaker wires to my Main Loom while it was out of the vehicle, to make it like original fit, although the speaker wires i used had clear insulation, which you can see in some of the pictures on this thread
But you could just as easily run extra speakers wires directly in the vehicle.
Without getting too technical, IIRC the main physical elements of the conversion are quite simple and do able.
1) Run 2 pairs between the Amp and the rear D pillar speaker locations, and replace the non speaker pillar covers with ones that have the speakers. They are not expensive and come with the speakers and all clips, and in fact you need to buy two for one side, giving you a spare and one for the other. Connections to the speakers can be soldered or after market crimps used.
2) Run 1 pair to the dash center speaker location, use the speaker from your spare D pillar cover as for some silly reason it comes cheaper with the cover than on its own then connect as in 1)
3) Run 2 pairs, one to each front door connector, you will have to go through the Body to door connectors but i will cover this separately in 7).
4) You can either get 2 Logic 7 door looms like me or you could add the extra pair that go to only the Bass speaker, cutting it off from the existing feed which used to be shared by the Bass Mid and Tweeter and will now only feed the Mid and Tweeter
5) Replace the Amp for the Black one, you do see these on Ebay quite often and you can use one from a D3/4, RRS or FFRR, although with the latter you will then need to re flash it with the right software.
6) Although i would seriously consider trying the system without replacing any speakers at all, if you do decide to do this, at least partially, the front door Bass Speakers are the main items, followed by the mid and then tweeters.
7) You will need to add the extra wires you have fitted to the Amp and you have to move some from one location to another, you will also need to go through the front door connectors. For this you will need some of the correct pins.
I happily re use pins taken from other scrap looms and donor vehicles are now much more available than when i did this. Fortunately most of the connectors, although physically different, use exactly the same pins. For example the door connection pins can be taken from the Body to Chassis connectors and the ones for the Amp are very common.
Here is a rough diagram i knocked up Blue Peter style showing where the new wires are added to the Amp connections and the pin swaps.
Click image to enlarge
Finally, You will need to change the amplifier type setting in the CCF From AUD2 to AUD4, (as written on the back of the Amps Baben ) then you will have the Logic 7 options appear on your head unit. And as mentioned, also have the Amp re flashed if it was from a FFRR.
As an extra bit of help, In wiring speakers, although the diagram from the Amp end tells you which is positive and which is negative, often the speakers are not marked. Simply take any standard 1.5 V battery and connect it to the speaker either way round. As you connect the voltage, note which way the cone moves. If it is towards you, then the positive of the battery is connected to the positive of the speaker, if it moves away then the negative of the battery is connected to the positive of the speaker.
If anyone else wants to do this and needs any extra help or advice i would be happy to oblige as best i can
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
) and I have for the moment given it a thread of its own, lest it be missed by those who so obviously enjoyed reading the last episode of this saga.
I struggle to even wash mine 
Yes I have both, hence why it doesn't need washing 
I can't wait.)
) then you will have the Logic 7 options appear on your head unit. And as mentioned, also have the Amp re flashed if it was from a FFRR.
