Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
I bet it happens all the time and how do you really know if
A they have changed the oil?
B changed the filter?
C used the correct spec oil?
Add in silly long service intervals and theres trouble ahead!
18th Mar 2019 1:28 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8043
If the oil is not black and within less than 50 miles of being changed it is not doing it’s job, worry when it’s still clear and not black.
LR claim slightly more oil is removed by vacuum than by traditional gravity
As regards knowing if it has actually been changed and what it has been replaced with is a major advantage of DIY, particularly with SS engines and the extra cost of oil. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
18th Mar 2019 1:35 pm
Bardley
Member Since: 02 May 2018
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 437
As above, with the lack of a dipstick, there's clearly no way of checking if the oil change has been carried out.
I did wonder if a bicycle brake cable would be thin enough to at least work it's way down the tube, and then withdrawn. Any oil residue could then be seen to either be clean or not.
The oil filter is a cartridge, so again very difficult to judge if it's actually been changed. The other spin on filter type can be scratched or marked to allow the owner positive ID.
The only real way is a DIY oil change, or a known trusted garage that you are happy to deal with.2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.
18th Mar 2019 6:38 pm
sasdiscos
Member Since: 22 Feb 2013
Location: Northants
Posts: 885
Put some security paint on the oil filter and the cap for the suction tube. Or anti tamper stuffYou remind me of a younger me, not much younger mind...perhaps even a little older!
18th Mar 2019 6:47 pm
Littlewill
Member Since: 14 Sep 2015
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 484
Isnt it bad that we live in a world where the above is actually likely to happen. I'm sure that some garages don't do all the proper checks and changes.
18th Mar 2019 7:29 pm
Andy500
Member Since: 27 Aug 2018
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 228
It really is! I serviced my D4myself this weekend as planning to do it every6 months. I bought it in August and it had a ‘major’ service as part of the deal. I know they did the oil and fuel filter at least as they were behind and I saw them doing those whilst I was there.
The air filter that came out this weekend had clearly been in a long time though so that defo hadn’t been done! I also did the cabin filter which I think must have been the original! It’s a 59 with 105k on so no bloody wonder the heAting had been crap!
Changed the filter and also took out the air temp sensor and cleaned it which had more fluff on it than a sumos belly button! Funnily enough it’s like a new car now and works perfectly! Most of its services had been done at LR as well!
Accusump could be the answer, it is both simple & effective and is the accepted method for providing continuous oiling whilst adding longevity to road and race engines. It also supplies oil pressure to the engine at startup pre-lubricating engine components, which could help off-set some of the problems of stop-start.
I have, in the past, used Accusump on competition cars powered by Lotus/Ford & Rover V8 engines, and se no reason why they should not work with more modern engines.
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
28th Mar 2019 11:32 am
OvalAutos
Member Since: 28 Dec 2018
Location: Cradley Heath
Posts: 382
Re: D4 Oil level-thoughts idea
les-goose wrote:
Thinking aloud, with D4 electronic dip stick and D3 manual. Does the D4 oil drain tube fit in same place as D3 dip stick tube. Presume this has been thought of yes convert D4 tube to D3 dip stick. If for some reason this is a no go is it possible to adapt a dip stick to fit in Oil drain tube of D4. Even if it was to just use for to check oil level then removed for the next time you needed to check it.
The turbo drain goes in to the sump, not the block like on a D3. However, even though the 'hole' is there where a D3 would fit the dipstick, you can't get to it because the primary turbo is in the way.Joe
28th Mar 2019 12:12 pm
OvalAutos
Member Since: 28 Dec 2018
Location: Cradley Heath
Posts: 382
M3DPO wrote:
It is unquestionably a bad design, but not as bad as the oil pressure light, what’s the point of having a warning light that tells you you have no oil pressure? - it might as well say you have just blown the engine
25 years ago I had a ML Merc that warned the driver the oil was low before it was empty and without any driver input , and it had a dip stick.
I have tried inserting a dip stick in the oil extraction pipe without success
The D4 will warn you via a dashboard message the the oil is critically low with a red triangle!Joe
28th Mar 2019 12:13 pm
OvalAutos
Member Since: 28 Dec 2018
Location: Cradley Heath
Posts: 382
Re: Bicycle brake cable?
M3DPO wrote:
Bardley wrote:
M3DPO wrote:
It is unquestionably a bad design, but not as bad as the oil pressure light, what’s the point of having a warning light that tells you you have no oil pressure? - it might as well say you have just blown the engine
25 years ago I had a ML Merc that warned the driver the oil was low before it was empty and without any driver input , and it had a dip stick.
I have tried inserting a dip stick in the oil extraction pipe without success
Have had a think about this, and maybe a bicycle brake cable will slide in? They're pretty thin. Just the cable mind, not with the outer.
I tried a curtain flexible wire, there appears to be an acute angled bend near the bottom that nothing will pass and nothing shows on the wire, maybe she’s very low on oil
Below is a photo taken from a previous post of mine, where the pipe goes into the sump, it has a simple push on/ squeeze off connection, to the left can be seen the sump drain plug, in my case the connection was not sealing properly, by removing cleaning and refitting it made a seal, but left unexamined it could have been disastrous, if this is the bend the wire will not go past there should still have been oil on it.
This has to be one of the worst design aspects on the 3.0 engine. This puny pipe leads directly in to the sump at the same level as the drain plug. We've seen some people drain the oil by releasing this pipe instead of the drain plug. As such, we always lock wire this pipes to prevent A/ accidental fall off and B/ stop idiots taking them off in the first place.
Yes you can actually check the oil level down this pipe with a flexible cable (bicycle brake cable) as the oil does come up the pipe to the level in the sump. The best time to calibrate the 'new' dipstick is when you do an oil/filter change. That way you know exactly how much oil is in the sump.Joe
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