Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
Location: Stockport
Posts: 154
Dealing with rusty rear end
Hi folks, got a 2007 d3, shiny on the top rusty underneath, as per
Apart from being keen on keeping it mechanically sound I like to keep on top of some of the shiny and not so shiny bits.
I tow with it quite a bit so leave the electrics cover off, just looks pretty messy and flaking off with rust, any general advice on treating please, the rust then coating over, hamerite maybe?
Can rust ever be properly treated without removing back to bare metal?
Any product names would be appreciated.
Cheers
Paul
13th Dec 2017 6:18 pm
waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2862
I found the Dinitrol RC900 to work really well - although time will tell how long it lasts:
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/chassis-sus...t=dinitrolCurrently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
13th Dec 2017 6:32 pm
Paulc2017
Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
Location: Stockport
Posts: 154
Cheers for that
13th Dec 2017 6:37 pm
OJ
Member Since: 01 Oct 2017
Location: Loch Leven
Posts: 725
Hi Paul, used Kurust in the past with some success, I’m sure there are other similar products available, clean off all the flaky bits first apply the kurust and leave in to work, turns black when it’s neutralised the rust, painting after treatment, Hamerite smooth is pretty good, not so much their spray cans always seem to block up, Screwfix black metal protect is not too bad and a lot cheaper, following painting, Dinatrol wax treatment helps keep the worst of the elements away, once the rust gets a grip its a regular checkup and treatment to try and hold it back, good regular clean down with the pressure washer helps. I’m not keen on blasting thick underbody treatment all over, in my opinion it may on the surface look good but all this does is trap water and rust underneath that often goes unseen which makes things a bit worse in the end.
I’m sure there are other numerous suggestions but this works for me, there are companies that specialise in this work but i prefer to do it myself and take my time removing wheels panels etc to get right into the areas and its much cheaper albeit messy, try to pick a warm day if at all possible and heat the tins a little bit as it helps application.
OJ
13th Dec 2017 6:45 pm
Paulc2017
Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
Location: Stockport
Posts: 154
Cheers OJ, Can see me just dealing with the bit I can see, so that’s useful. I’ve looked under the car (less than pretty) and I am sure this is a can of worms I don’t want to open, so for the rest of it I’ll just stick my fingers in my ears and keep my eyes shut lol
13th Dec 2017 6:50 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72787
Re-doing the rust proofing (peewee poor job done a few years ago) was on the to-do list, luckily I left it til after the ill faited summer road trip, one bill I didn't have to pay.
13th Dec 2017 7:11 pm
Paulc2017
Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
Location: Stockport
Posts: 154
I can see you are a glass half full chap
13th Dec 2017 7:16 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8101
Have you had the tow bar recall done?- you may be able to get the complete rear cross member replaced for free It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
13th Dec 2017 7:19 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72787
Paulc2017 wrote:
I can see you are a glass half full chap
And I didn't have to pay for a new gearbox cable. The cable tie repair lasted 2,000 miles before the engine died.
Click image to enlarge
Last edited by DSL on 13th Dec 2017 7:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total
13th Dec 2017 7:19 pm
Paulc2017
Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
Location: Stockport
Posts: 154
Started to view the massive thread above about as “feverish” if I saw my car in that many pieces, I’d probably put a match to it rather than go through that angst. Insurance companies, if you still scan forums, this is a joke
13th Dec 2017 7:19 pm
Paulc2017
Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
Location: Stockport
Posts: 154
posted twice. Must be WiFi issues on this beach in Mexico. Hence having the time to catch up on this admin lol
13th Dec 2017 7:20 pm
Paulc2017
Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
Location: Stockport
Posts: 154
I’ll keep some zip ties in the boot lol
13th Dec 2017 7:23 pm
Nc1989
Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 203
Get the bumper off and have a good prod around the crossmember with a screwdriver and hammer, you wouldn’t be the first if you poked loads of holes in it...
It’s critical that it’s sound especially so if you tow with a removable hitch as it doesn’t tie into the chassis legs further forward like the fixed one does. It’s £230ish for a new rear crossmember and isn’t horrendous to replace either.
13th Dec 2017 7:34 pm
OJ
Member Since: 01 Oct 2017
Location: Loch Leven
Posts: 725
Paulc2017 wrote:
I can see you are a glass half full chap
Don’t get DSL started, he’ll be off opening another bottle to have with his lasagne
13th Dec 2017 7:50 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72787
2nd bottle already opened. And it was ham & cheese penne past bake. Leftovers.
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OJ
