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ianrichardson
Member Since: 31 Aug 2010
Location: Cardiff and Mid France!
Posts: 313
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Disco 3 passenger door lock sticking. |
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My just acquired D3 has a 'funny' with the passenger door lock. When unlocking the lock doesn't flip the black lever out as the others do. By 'helping' the lever when pressing the unlock button on the dash it releases, butt definitely feels sticky. So it works but not properly, I don't mind taking the door card off to have a look, but with no workshop manual, I need some guidance. Anybody been there and can give me some instructions? Is it similar to the P38 with hidden screws in the armrest for instance?
All help gratefully received.
Ian
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24th Sep 2010 5:27 pm |
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ianrichardson
Member Since: 31 Aug 2010
Location: Cardiff and Mid France!
Posts: 313
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Trackman wrote:Hi
Have a look here
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic33743.html
Looks like you need a new door latch mechanism ( had to do mine a few weeks ago )
Ian
Hi Ian
Thanks for the link, I found the thread last night after I posted the query. It looks do-able, would you agree?
What wasn't said is what fails. I'm intrigued to know why it locks OK but won't flip out the black lever on unlock. I can of course pull the lever whilst pressing the unlock button in the car. But of course that can only be done from inside the car!
So does anybody know what fails, are there two motors, one for lock and the other for unlock? I don't think that it is a sticky cable as it does lock easily.
Ian
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25th Sep 2010 10:50 pm |
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Trackman
Member Since: 16 Apr 2010
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 430
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Hi Ian,
Its the motor that failed on mine. Yes two motors - can't remember which did what now but its the brushes on the motor that were gone. It amazed me that it actully opened in that condition - or maybe I was just lucky !!
When changing the mechanism, it will test your patience when you are trying to realease the bowden cables, small pair of long nose pliers helps
Make sure the window glass cannot drop when you are working in the door !
Ian.
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25th Sep 2010 11:02 pm |
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ianrichardson
Member Since: 31 Aug 2010
Location: Cardiff and Mid France!
Posts: 313
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Trackman wrote:Hi Ian,
Its the motor that failed on mine. Yes two motors - can't remember which did what now but its the brushes on the motor that were gone. It amazed me that it actully opened in that condition - or maybe I was just lucky !!
When changing the mechanism, it will test your patience when you are trying to realease the bowden cables, small pair of long nose pliers helps
Make sure the window glass cannot drop when you are working in the door !
Ian.
Morning Ian
Thanks for those hints. I'll be doing this on my own and I've heard that people use strong 'gaffer' or 'duck' tape. The favoured method is about a foot on the glass up over the top of the door and another foot stuck to the other side. Any comments?
It's my passenger door that's faulty, and I was a little perplexed to find that the near side unit is about 7 quid more expensive than the drivers one! I wonder why that is. www.brit-car.co.uk LHS £45.81 + vat as opposed to RHS £39.08 + vat.
Interesting.
Thanks again for the advice.
Ian
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26th Sep 2010 8:09 am |
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Trackman
Member Since: 16 Apr 2010
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 430
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Hi Ian,
Yes there is a price difference but no idea why. I think the front units are smaller than the rear one. It was my rear unit that went and from memory was about £55. from Landrover (TLO on this site)
To hold the glass I used a sucker thing that my Wife had. Its the type that you see people using for handling glass. (two suckers with a handle in between) but when I released the glass I put a small piece of wood inside the door between the glass and the bottom of the door. That made sure it was not going anywhere.
When you release the window clips from the mechanism you do need a bit of force as you have to push the plastic parts apart.
Good luck!!
Ian
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26th Sep 2010 11:55 am |
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