hi guys due to the gfc ive been helping the old boy fix a few issues with his ride.
so far i have replaced the cracked washer bottle ,seat airbag issue,fixd blocked sunroof drain causing to leak in to roof lining and airbag,
anyway this is my problem the tail lights work but the brake lights dont.
middle led brake light does work, it has dual filament globes if that matters .
any help or direction would be awesome thanx Paul
I think you are describing D3 lights with bulbs. If so, only the upper bulb was factory wired for both tail and brake, on UK spec vehicles. There is a thread on here about adding wiring and connector to use both.
Also, beware using non-LandRover bulbs in the stop/tail. Apparently the filament is positioned differently. When a "normal" bulb fails it can short internally which gives rise to a whole host of odd electronic problems.Always plan ahead - it wasn't raining when Noah started building the Ark.
10th Jun 2010 1:04 pm
Member Since: 23 Nov 2008
Original equipment brake lights are notorious for premature failure in D3's....as did mine and the many I observe on the road. Just drop the rear tail gar, undo the two PH screws and remove the whole tail light assy. Remove (bayonet style) light plug from rear and R & R lamp with a good quality lamp from your local garage or auto store.MY07 D3, TDV6S; Bull Bar, Cooper S/T's, Dual Battery, UHF, GPS; 03 D2, 94 D1, both departed & 1950 S1 80" going strong. 06 Astra CDX Coupe.
Humanity has no capacity to influence the global tidal wave of cyclical climate change!!!!
10th Jun 2010 8:25 pm
Member Since: 10 Jun 2010
thanx a heap guys
it seems like lr's are notorious for everything .
i mean its a beautiful machine dont get me wrong .
but its like they tried to hard on somethings and not hard enough on others.
it takes 10 seconds to remove the headlights, but hours to remove the washer bottle because of 1 badly thought out bolt.
further complicating things by trying uncomplicate them in the first place
visually the bulbs look fine so i will get them off today and test the bulbs continuity.
btw mine arent p/h screws it requires an allen key.
afaik which isnt much..
the only p/h screws in the body are in the black plastic inner wheel arches. front bar is 8mm socket
and allen key ,washer bottle is 10mm socket, the h/lights have metal slide retainers.
the drls have allen screws aswell
p.s its an rhd australian delivered lr3se.
hehe thats why the bonnet opens from the passanger side and i turns on the wipers instead of indicating
10th Jun 2010 11:54 pm
Member Since: 07 Mar 2011
Location: Reading, UK
She won't turn off! Help!!!
Great forum, thanks to all involved, it's helped me a lot with my 2005 D3 TDV6. It's manual.
I have searched long and hard and can't see this issue, always ready to be proved wrong!!
I had the common issue recently of the car dropping to low ride, dash light up like a Xmas tree, etc. So I pulled up, and went to turn the car off to take a look around and see any outward signs of an issue. Weirdly, the car would not turn off.
I could turn the key to the off position, and withdraw the key and it would still run.
I stalled it by dropping the clutch with it in first gear, then it was off so (for the moment all good). It restarted OK, and would choose normal height, etc. 10 minutes later it went again.
A review through this great forum showed up the brake light switch issue. I duly purchased from Lancaster Reading for the pricely sum of Â£7.
It hasn't fixed it though - it still drops with "All Terrain System Fault" as it did the first time.
Also, I can't turn it off if either:
1. Headlights are on
2. Brake pedal is pressed (ie brake lights are on)
Also, if you turn the car off now and withdraw the key, then press the brake pedal, the car goes to the mode it enters before you do the final ignition turn for the starter motor.
So, if it's not the brake light switch, what is it?
The old switch hard carbonisation in it, but not a lot.
Ideas welcome - and much appreciate.
26th Oct 2011 7:27 pm
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Rob Hollonds wrote:
Original equipment brake lights are notorious for premature failure in D3's.SNIP.
Not to put too fine a point on it, !
The LR bulbs are widely considered to be the best (only?) replacement.
Go to your LR dealer.
As the high level light is still operating, the problem is almost certainly due to blown bulbs. You can check this by swapping with the bulbs below them.
I think the reason the filaments seem to not last too long is that the 3's electrical system runs closer to 14 VDC than the 12 VDC number that older vehicles used to run at.
Below is a link to some files I have in my gallery on the brake switch and bulbs.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=50822005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
13th Nov 2011 10:54 pm
Member Since: 22 Oct 2009
Did you ever get your electrical problem fixed? I have exactly the same problem and was hoping that changing the brake light switch would solve everything but it does not look to have done for you! Any information welcomed.
8th Mar 2012 6:20 pm
Member Since: 05 Jan 2012
Ive changed the switch on mine a few months ago problem solved
15th Mar 2012 11:49 pm
Member Since: 15 Oct 2010
Location: Southwest Scotland
D3 dropping to low ride caused by brake lights
My 07 D3 2.7 auto GS had a similar problem to yours where it dropped to low ride while driving and eventually we worked out that it coincided with using the brakes. It was not brake lights or switches but a frayed wire in the brake lighting circuit. This also explained why management got a small electric shock when getting out of the Disco if I was holding it on the brakes. She is over this now, as is the Disco, you will be glad to know. The final straw was when the fault occurred 9 times on the 15 mile trip to the dealership in Ayr to find and fix the fault as it gave what sounded like a tired bong and lowered. A short wait was needed then a restart and if you have ever tried to drive an auto with minimum brake use, well it is a wee bit of a challenge in traffic.
Hope this is of use to you.
Sandy Millar.Series II 88 1968, Series III 109 1972
Previous Landies - Ex BBC V8 110, Ex factory 110 V8 Backhoe '84,
90 Pickup TD '86, 90 Hard Top NA Diesel '85,
110 County SW 4 cyl petrol '83, Series III 88
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