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KL
Member Since: 16 Jun 2005
Location: Gilling, nr York
Posts: 713
  
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| Discs, pads, R suspension arms, arb, EGR, EPB - all @ 75,000 |
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Warning light - EPB fail at the weekend.
Likely wiring, judging by the searches off the forum.
Car needs the 75,000 service anyhow, so it went in today.
Basic service: £295 all in, inc transfer box oil replacement.
So far , so good.
Apparently I need new front & rear discs and pads as well (pads had been changed at 45,000)
Front discs & pads £212 + V
Rear discs & pads £207 + V
Tracking another £30
Both rear suspension arms worn - £340 + V
Front ARB bushes worn - £65 + V
All this, plus an unknown amount of time to track down the possible wiring fault.
Also there's an "EGR fault" - I blanked both off last summer following the guide here. Is it normal to have the fault flag (and if so, does it matter?)
This is one of those "feeling sick" evenings!
Anyway - a couple of questions.
1. do these look reasonable? They charge £40 +V / hr which as a basic rate is pretty good, and they generally know what they are doing.
2. looking at some of the threads it appears I should be able to get the discs & pads x 4 for around £200. That should save me around £275 by my rough calcs, if I do the work myself following the guides.
3. The rear suspension arm replacements - how easy is it to do these, and if so is there any info?
4. the worn front ARB bushes - would you suggest just sticking on the ARB spacers from here http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic30622.html ?
Any advice gratefully received - I'm really strapped for cash at the mo, and need to be able to reduce the costs of the "easy to do" stuff... if at all possible. Discovery 3 tdv6 7 seat Buckingham Blue
Had it since new - sold Jun 17 after 12 years and 214,000 miles
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 30th Apr 2010 12:22 am |
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KL
Member Since: 16 Jun 2005
Location: Gilling, nr York
Posts: 713
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Not even mentioned the park brake wiring!
Lord alone knows how I would find that though- I'm pretty duff with electrics and OK with the mechanicals. Discovery 3 tdv6 7 seat Buckingham Blue
Had it since new - sold Jun 17 after 12 years and 214,000 miles
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| 30th Apr 2010 12:24 am |
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Paganuk
Member Since: 23 Oct 2008
Location: Glos
Posts: 544
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got my disc and from island 4x4 and before anyone says fit genuine they have been fine the pads are mintex and disks allmakes no noisees or vibrations so very pleased with them done around 5 k on them so far
75 for front and simalair for rear with new warning cables too
if you need shoes as well then they can be costley 40 - 50 per side
the rear arms are a pig if they are badley coroded we had to cut bolts to change mine the arms i think are around 70 -80 get new bolts and nut too speak to TLO (the large one)he be able to give you best price youll probaly need 4 wheel alignment after
tracking price sounds ok but make sure it has full tank of fuel and if poss grt it put in to tight tolerance mode youll need a diagnostic kit to do this
EPB may just need adjusting and resetting or it may have done what mine did and wound out to stop and cable had came disconnected in actuater re conected ran the diags on it and it works now is it a red warning light or amber?
ARB are a piece of cake put new in they are only abot 6 quid a pair TLO again do your self front drivers side is hardest there is a how to on here somwhere
EGRs youve blanked so shouldnt be a prob some will say replace other dont worry have a read of the egr threads me iwouldnt worring if they are blanked in fact ill be blanking mine shortley
may be worth giving ten for cash a email dont know if he comes that far up but drop hime a line Survived the 2014 PotNoodle Challenge!
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| 30th Apr 2010 1:05 am |
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Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
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EPB - If it went silent then could be just the wiring. Easy to check and easy to fix - cost = zero  Good luck, keep us posted.
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| 30th Apr 2010 8:12 am |
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KL
Member Since: 16 Jun 2005
Location: Gilling, nr York
Posts: 713
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Matty 2332 wrote:EPB - If it went silent then could be just the wiring. Easy to check and easy to fix - cost = zero Good luck, keep us posted.
"Easy to check"!
I know my spanners, but don't know one end of a multimeter from the other...
But I'll have a go! Discovery 3 tdv6 7 seat Buckingham Blue
Had it since new - sold Jun 17 after 12 years and 214,000 miles
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| 30th Apr 2010 10:27 am |
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TallPaul
Member Since: 03 Jan 2008
Location: Near Reading
Posts: 1214
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| Re: Discs, pads, R suspension arms, arb, EGR, EPB - all @ 75 |
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KL wrote:
1. do these look reasonable? They charge £40 +V / hr which as a basic rate is pretty good, and they generally know what they are doing.
Don't have any helpful tips, but just to cheer you up the local LR dealer is £110/hr here in Berkshire!
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| 30th Apr 2010 9:18 pm |
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KL
Member Since: 16 Jun 2005
Location: Gilling, nr York
Posts: 713
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| Re: Discs, pads, R suspension arms, arb, EGR, EPB - all @ 75 |
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TallPaul wrote:KL wrote:
1. do these look reasonable? They charge £40 +V / hr which as a basic rate is pretty good, and they generally know what they are doing.
Don't have any helpful tips, but just to cheer you up the local LR dealer is £110/hr here in Berkshire!
Thanks goodness for honest independents!
It's just a pity I don't have lots of spare cash... Discovery 3 tdv6 7 seat Buckingham Blue
Had it since new - sold Jun 17 after 12 years and 214,000 miles
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| 1st May 2010 7:30 am |
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mzplcg
Member Since: 23 Jun 2009
Location: Gone
Posts: 1087
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Definitely do the brakes yourself. As long as you take your time and follow the guides you'll be fine. Be sure to use a decent trolley jack and solid axle stands.
ARB bushes are not complex things to do but the NSF can be fiddly. I did mine OK but there was a bit of swearing 
The rear arms can be a  but it all depends on whether or not the bolts come out. You will need 4 wheel alignment after this. Google for Hunter wheel alignment or check out blackboots.co.uk. These are in Chesham Bucks which is no good to you but the equipment is about the best available so try and find one closer to you who use the Hunter equipment.
EGR's I have no knowledge of - I run a V8.
The EPB sounds like a wiring fault but check for yourself. Always worth checking fuses and ensuring conectors are clean and seated properly. If you get lucky you'll save some cash and if not all you've lost is some time. Some of the EPB issues are corroded wiring which is realtively simple to sort if you're OK with a soldering iron.
Best of luck
Dom.
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| 1st May 2010 10:00 am |
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KL
Member Since: 16 Jun 2005
Location: Gilling, nr York
Posts: 713
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mzplcg wrote:Definitely do the brakes yourself. As long as you take your time and follow the guides you'll be fine. Be sure to use a decent trolley jack and solid axle stands.
ARB bushes are not complex things to do but the NSF can be fiddly. I did mine OK but there was a bit of swearing
The rear arms can be a but it all depends on whether or not the bolts come out. ...
The EPB sounds like a wiring fault but check for yourself. Always worth checking fuses and ensuring conectors are clean and seated properly. If you get lucky you'll save some cash and if not all you've lost is some time. Some of the EPB issues are corroded wiring which is realtively simple to sort if you're OK with a soldering iron.
Best of luck
Dom.
Cheers Dom.
Brakes it is then.
Ditto the ARBs
The garage did tell me that the rear arms are a to get off as the nuts tend to seize solid. He's had to grind the bolts off before on this job- not something I really want to be doing (if there's easier stuff!)
As to the EPB - I'm convinced it's the wiring (as are the garage).
They said it could take a good few hours to trace the right wire and test it. Apparently there are loads of wires down there (not investigated yet).
I'll have a look for obvious signs of corrosion, but I've no idea how to track down where abouts in the wire the "break" or corrosion is. I have access to a multimeter from a neighbour, but don't know how to use it! I guess I attach the sensor somehow to the correct wire at different points along, to identify where the voltage drop is and therefore where the corrosion is. Would I need someone in the front seat trying to switch on the handbrake as I tested the voltage? (as I say, I don't have experience of using a multimeter!).
The EPB shows the amber fault light permanently. The EPB will not come on with the switch, nor when the key is removed from the lock. The switch will not do the "emergency stop" routine when on the move (which I understand uses the disc brakes rather than the EPB). Could be wiring; could be switch; could be fuse (I have checked them though). Money is on the wiring.
Thanks again for help, suggestions, advice. Discovery 3 tdv6 7 seat Buckingham Blue
Had it since new - sold Jun 17 after 12 years and 214,000 miles
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| 4th May 2010 10:16 am |
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bigdave
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 9868
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KL - if they grind the grind the nuts off (which they had to with mine) make sure they have replacement nuts in stock!!
They didnt with mine and had to 'aquire' a couple from the track itself!!!!
Dave All things shipping, storage, transport. UK and worldwide.
E-mail [email protected]
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| 4th May 2010 10:22 am |
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TallPaul
Member Since: 03 Jan 2008
Location: Near Reading
Posts: 1214
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Was there not originally some problems with the loom in the wheel arch being prone to damage or water? Sorry, fuzzy recollection from years ago, might be worth a search on forum.
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| 5th May 2010 7:58 pm |
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KL
Member Since: 16 Jun 2005
Location: Gilling, nr York
Posts: 713
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TallPaul wrote:Was there not originally some problems with the loom in the wheel arch being prone to damage or water? Sorry, fuzzy recollection from years ago, might be worth a search on forum.
Thanks Paul - will have a look.
Another numpty question.
If front ARBs are worn, is it better / easier to replace them or fit the shims?
Is it a case of "I might as well just fit some decent polybushes if I'm there anyway", or is it a much harder job to fit the bushes than to fit the shims?
Thanks again... Discovery 3 tdv6 7 seat Buckingham Blue
Had it since new - sold Jun 17 after 12 years and 214,000 miles
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| 6th May 2010 8:36 am |
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Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
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You need to check whether you are getting 12 V to the EPB acuator. Its a little fiddly, but in simple terms you will need to raise the rear on ramps or stands, drop the spare wheel and remove, raise suspension to 'off road' height. Then you need to remove the wiring connector on the actuator. This takes a bit of feeling around as its located above the rear axle behind a mounting bracket. If you look accross the axle from the offside wheel you can see the connector, it has a safetly latch accross it which keeps it in place. When the car has gone to sleep you need to remove the EPB fuselink (the square one in the engine bay fuse box) Crawl under the car and remove the connector, have a good look at it and you will see the wire cavities numbered. The ports G4 & H4 contain the two 12 v yellow/ green 1.5mm supply. These are the two you need to test, the difficulty is they need to be tested under load - plugged in to the acuator. Attach a paperclip to the red probe of your tester and shove the paperclip down the side of the wire in one of the above ports. Find a good earth for the black probe. Now gently reconnect the connector, re insert the fuse link, turn on the ignition, If you get a christmas tree display on the dash and suspension lowering you havent reinserted the connector correctly, easy mistake to make and dangerous if you are under the car at the time. get back under and see what readings you get, you may need to just push the paperclip and probe into the connector to get a reading. repeat for second port. if your readings are below 10.4 then its a wiring issue, you can follow the 12 v wire back to the connectors easy enough. The usual culprit is the one above the NS wheel arch.
Good luck
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| 6th May 2010 10:08 am |
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