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waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2862
  
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| Chassis refurb and protective coating - any recommendations? |
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Evening folks
Having suffered the dreaded but (seemingly) increasingly frequent engine failure a couple of weeks ago I decided to bite the bullet and replace the engine with a LR refurbed unit (or at least get DM to change it for me). (I know my car's history and decided to invest my dosh in a unit that comes with a 2-year warranty rather than taking a gamble on another vehicle, especially as I do 30-40k per year in the D3)
Whilst the body is off I intend to take the opportunity to give the chassis some TLC as well as sort out some other preventative maintenance such as brake pipes etc. and give the suspension an overhaul (I changed all the brake system except the pipes last year).
Question for the assembled collective: Does anyone out there have any experience of chassis protective coatings, be it good or bad?
In the past (bad old days) I used to paint the old engine oil onto the chassis whenever I did an engine change, but realise that things have probably moved on in the past 35 years or so. Also had a Defender waxoyl treated by a nutter based close to Greenham Common about a decade ago but wasn't impressed with the effectiveness at all.
Thanks in advance 
PS. We shall be travelling all day Thursday so will be unable to reply/pass on thanks before Friday. Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
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 18th Oct 2017 9:08 pm |
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kajtzu
Member Since: 11 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6570
 
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Here where they use a lot of salt on the road rust proofing is a fairly good idea. Tectyl and Dinitrol seem to be the ones I’ve heard most of.
General rule up here is that people don’t do it if they don’t intend to keep the car forever since you’re investing in something which doesn’t benefit you the first 5-6 years (if the car is new, I mean) but will benefit the next owner instead.
Personally, I can attest that rust proofing is a great idea for the underside.
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| 18th Oct 2017 9:13 pm |
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OJ
Member Since: 01 Oct 2017
Location: Loch Leven
Posts: 725
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Used Dinatrol on my Defender, excellent job comes as a complete kit, have used Buzweld as well but personally I think Dinatrol is better.
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| 18th Oct 2017 10:10 pm |
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Yiannis66
Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Athens
Posts: 14
 
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Dear friend
I was facing the same problems with tiny or bigger spots of surface rust on the chassis frame as I frequently use the car for hunting and I am driving in roads with ice -snow and eventually a lot of salt.
This summer I put an end to this ugly thing as I first wipe out all spots with steel brush and then I paint myself all chassis frame with special SIKA marine grade epoxy primer (dual component), which not only provides protection , but also contains Zink and does galvanization as well.
The next day I painted again the chassis with Hammerite black paint and I think I wont have any problems in the near future.
By the way ,I 've read that you are planning to change the brake hoses. I am thinking the same and I found that BRITPART offers an upgrade stainless steel kit (DA7561) , similar to HEL.
If you have any opinion or reasoning what to choose and why it will be more than welcome
Have a great day
Yiannis
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| 1st Nov 2017 6:24 am |
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waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2862
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Belated thanks to all
I'll be posting a new thread later this week (hopefully) detailing what we did whilst the body was off for a new engine to be fitted. Currently trying to sort out the photos at present Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
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| 1st Nov 2017 10:02 am |
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df_tom
Member Since: 10 Mar 2017
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 127
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If there is rust already, especially on the inside, grease based penetrating product is the way to go - at least for the inside.
Mike Sanders or Fluid Film. WIll creep and penetrate the rust to stop any progression. Needs a refresher once a year at your mileage.
On the outside make really sure to get rid of the rust before you put some hard paint or wax over. The smallest bit of rust left wil be the starting point for the next generation. Capillary forces will draw in moisture through small cracks and under the wax/paintjob. Then the evil will start all over again, and most probably it will go even faster than before.
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| 1st Nov 2017 8:34 pm |
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