Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Have you had the steering angle sensor recalibrated?Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
4th Jun 2019 2:31 pm
doz
Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Southampton
Posts: 436
Didn't need to. Once the steering wheel was in the straight ahead position it cleared on the next start
4th Jun 2019 2:59 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13573
doz wrote:
The drive to get the alignment done was a bit interesting to say the least. The drive afterwards was amazing. A piccy of the worst Bush
Good to hear as it was the same it’s mine, like night and day
Funny they all seem to come out like that
4th Jun 2019 6:54 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13573
Narpy wrote:
Have you had the steering angle sensor recalibrated?
Out of curiosity plse if that angle isn’t checked at zero with the wheel straight will the DSC start playing up
Thks
4th Jun 2019 6:59 pm
doz
Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Southampton
Posts: 436
And hill descent, terrain control and suspension won't go up or down but doesn't drop to the bump stops. Well that's what happened to mine
4th Jun 2019 7:11 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
All the steering angle sensor does is to tell the car where the straight ahead position is. The car then sets up it's own parameters around knowing where dead ahead is. From this information, it is then known ( for example ) the wheels on the inside of a bend turn slower than on the opposite side and the car makes allowances for this. It knows all this because it knows where dead ahead is.
The problem comes when you have suspension work done OR you have suspension components that are badly worn. The car tries to compensate, fails to do so and ends up launching it's toys out of the pram by displaying a whole host of warnings and bells and whistles.
Once you've had work done, or especially after a 4 wheel alignment, it is vital you recalibrate or re-tell the car where straight ahead is again because it will have changed and in the op's case, potentially changed quite considerably because his car was a country mile out.
Using the steering wheel as a guide is unwise IMHO because it will have been adjusted by the alignment centre and could still be out in relation to straight ahead. My own car was realigned, came back with an offset steering wheel yet drove perfectly well and others on the forum have experienced similar. ( It went back and was corrected incidentally )
Another problem with using the steering wheel as a guide is you might be running with the SAS at it's maximum tolerance, so the feeling of having fixed the problem probably won't last as the new components settle in.
I can't think of a reason not to recalibrate unless you don't have a diagnostic tool.Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
Last edited by Narpy on 4th Jun 2019 11:17 pm. Edited 1 time in total
4th Jun 2019 10:36 pm
doz
Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Southampton
Posts: 436
Good point well made. When mine threw a hissy fit over the steering angle it was 11° out. I haven't checked it since being aligned. It wouldn't hurt to see.
4th Jun 2019 11:09 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13573
Narpy wrote:
All the steering angle sensor does is to tell the car where the straight ahead position is. The car then sets up it's own parameters around knowing where dead ahead is. From this information, it is then known ( for example ) the wheels on the inside of a bend turn slower than on the opposite side and the car makes allowances for this. It knows all this because it knows where dead ahead is.
The problem comes when you have suspension work done OR you have suspension components that are badly worn. The car tries to compensate, fails to do so and ends up launching it's toys out of the pram by displaying a whole host of warnings and bells and whistles.
Once you've had work done, or especially after a 4 wheel alignment, it is vital you recalibrate or re-tell the car where straight ahead is again because it will have changed and in the op's case, potentially changed quite considerably because his car was a country mile out.
Using the steering wheel as a guide is unwise IMHO because it will have been adjusted by the alignment centre and could still be out in relation to straight ahead. My own car was realigned, came back with an offset steering wheel yet drove perfectly well and others on the forum have experienced similar. ( It went back and was corrected incidentally )
Another problem with using the steering wheel as a guide is you might be running with the SAS at it's maximum tolerance, so the feeling of having fixed the problem probably won't last as the new components settle in.
I can't think of a reason not to recalibrate unless you don't have a diagnostic tool.
Hi
Bless u so much for taking the time writing out a fantastic explanation thank u
I had my alignment done over in Surrey after members here recommended them , when they first done the alignment indeed the steering wheel was out as they drove it out the garage , before I could say anything they drove it straight back on the ramps and went through it all again to ensure the alignment and steering wheel was spot on , inc checking / resetting the angle sensor
Was quite pleased with myself as When I fitted the new wishbones the camber angles weren’t miles out
5th Jun 2019 1:25 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13573
doz wrote:
Good point well made. When mine threw a hissy fit over the steering angle it was 11° out. I haven't checked it since being aligned. It wouldn't hurt to see.
Mine was 5 degrees out before alignment and indeed as narpy says really worth doing
Ur nanocom should be able to reset it
Indeed as u say it controls a lot of other systems , had a look out of curiosity
Quote
The medium speed bus connects the following control modules:
� Integrated Head Unit (IHU) or low line head unit � Heating and ventilation control module
� Fuel burning heater
� Park distance control
� Tyre pressure monitoring control module � Central junction box
The high speed bus connects the following control modules:
� Steering angle sensor
� Air suspension
� Electric park brake
� Electronic rear differential control module � Terrain ResponseTM
� Restraint control module
� Engine control module
� Transmission control module
� Adaptive front lighting system control module � Antilock Braking System (ABS) control module
Both the medium and high speed CAN bus are connected to the Instrument cluster and the diagnostic socket at one end. The Medium speed bus terminates at the Central Junction Box (CJB), while the high speed bus terminates at the ABS control module.
Control modules are connected in either a loop , CAN in/ CAN out, or a spur configuration. Should a control module that is looped fail that bus system will fail at that point. Should a spurred control module fail the rest of the bus system will be unaffected by the faulty control module.
Plus always wanted to know what These meant
High speed Controller Area Network (CAN) bus
� Medium speed CAN bus
� Media Orientated System Transport (MOST) bus
� Gigabit Video Interface (GVIF)
� Local Interconnect (LIN) bus
� Security Local Interconnect (SLIN) bus
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