Member Since: 06 Aug 2007
Location: Saddleworth
Posts: 2302
Don't forget that adjusting doesn't cure the part failure - it keeps you temporarily out of the arena of rapid self-destruction that multiple screams will result in.
If you can find an adjustment range that keeps the screamers at bay, it buys you time.
Every scream is secondary gear unit end-wear (which in mine eventually welded the gear to the gear casing [in the hands of the dealer trying to "cure"it]) - caput!
Hope to have a solution for you very soon.
A2006 D3 finally swapped for a 2016 D4 Graphite in Graphite grey. No mods
7th Jul 2010 6:32 pm
TallPaul
Member Since: 03 Jan 2008
Location: Near Reading
Posts: 1214
As long as its adjusted every 12 months it seems to behave
We have manual so no option not to use it.
7th Jul 2010 9:39 pm
Bonzo
Member Since: 23 Feb 2007
Location: Argyll
Posts: 24
Just back from the stealer and feeling pretty sore. The epb on my 54 plate/78000mile TDV6 S started screaming around 6 weeks ago (my stealer is 100 miles from home) My local grease monkey was scared to touch it. The stealer called 3 hours after I left it to say they had loosenend everything, but found the module had failed and needs replaced. I could have told them that with some faith before they started. They indicated that fitting of the new unit, including the work they did today will cost £840!!! This sounds like more than others have been charged for a replacement. Fortunately, mine has died without the brakes being siezed, so for now I'll live with it and keep parked in 1st gear.
14th Jul 2010 7:47 pm
TallPaul
Member Since: 03 Jan 2008
Location: Near Reading
Posts: 1214
Try Nick (The Large One) - his details in the sponsor forum, for a replacement part.
Adjustment is simple - down load Bodsy's Brake Bible (search +brake +bible) and give it to him, but if the motor part has packed up then it might not cure it. I read on someone's autopsy thread that every screamer is damaging to the clutch in it.
Also, don't forget to call Land Rover customer services and tell them its not fit for purpose, and you want it fixed as its an unsafe design. Worth a try, cheaper than £840 quid! Can't see how you get to that, even down south here labour is £100 an hour, they spent 5 hours on it?! Screamers are a daily job for a dealer, should be 5 minutes!
14th Jul 2010 8:49 pm
AndrewW
Member Since: 06 Aug 2007
Location: Saddleworth
Posts: 2302
The repair package is nearly complete!
Cost including special tool should be under £20; work should take an afternoon...
Basically the design-faulted gear-and-shaft is bored out with a 4mm reamer and the insert fitted, spring and circlip applied with special tool. Re-assemble. Refit EPB unit. Job done
Watch this space...2006 D3 finally swapped for a 2016 D4 Graphite in Graphite grey. No mods
15th Jul 2010 3:38 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Bonzo, it's likely that the EPB shoes etc are probably still OK, although the dealer will want to charge you for changing them anyway.
The Module CAN be changed yourself, but it can be a bit of a git but OK with persistence (and small hands!)
Looks like AndrewW magic 'kit' could become a mainstay replacement technique. Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
15th Jul 2010 4:00 pm
TallPaul
Member Since: 03 Jan 2008
Location: Near Reading
Posts: 1214
Are cables not integral though, i.e. would the repair kit still not require complete removal of the electic motor unit?
15th Jul 2010 4:12 pm
AndrewW
Member Since: 06 Aug 2007
Location: Saddleworth
Posts: 2302
Sadly, yes - as far as I can tell you will need the whole tripus (three-legged octopus) on the bench BUT I bet some clever and nimble-handed smart guy will be able to do it in situ...
(The "tripus" consists of the box, two brake cables and the emergency release cable)
Someone who has removed their own EPB box could help here.
IF you can release the box from the frame and the cable runs/routings/attachments will allow you to pull it down to be accessible, (any experience, anyone? Anyone?)THEN you have to fight the lid off (8 screws are easy but the silicon seal is very strong (and will need replacing with squirty gunge - it isn't a gasket...). Having got the lid off, removing the motor/gearbox assembly is two spade terminals and three screws. Then you can take it all into the garage / lab / kitchen table and work on the bits.
Re-assembly would be the reverse fight with the box and cables... (and a dose of sealant to close the box)2006 D3 finally swapped for a 2016 D4 Graphite in Graphite grey. No mods
15th Jul 2010 5:01 pm
MartinR
Member Since: 27 Jan 2008
Location: Oxon
Posts: 708
AndrewW wrote:
Should be visible after removal of spare wheel and possibly exhaust heat shields.
Visible where? Just had the spare wheel off the D4 to fit the new protector (thanks Pete BAS!) and no obvious sign of it.
18th Jul 2010 6:22 pm
Dodgy
Member Since: 24 Jan 2008
Location: Chichester
Posts: 7
Electronic Park Brake - France
Andrew, great article.
My car is stranded in Bayonne. The local dealer says there is "rupture de stock" and cannot locate a spare EPB unit through Land Rover France. Does anyone have any other soutions to find a part quickly?
Should be visible after removal of spare wheel and possibly exhaust heat shields.
Visible where? Just had the spare wheel off the D4 to fit the new protector (thanks Pete BAS!) and no obvious sign of it.
Put the suspension in off road height and you can see it in-between the rear wheels.
Dodgy - can't they just wind it to the off position and leave it electrically disconnected to allow you to retrieve the vehicle?Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
21st Jul 2010 1:55 pm
wezzzor
Member Since: 25 May 2008
Location: limerick
Posts: 86
My 2nd epb just died. Lasted about 12 months, screamed once, had to emergency release and was pronounced dead the following day. Was talkin to the mechanic in the garage, he said the same epb module is in the RR sport but there is only a small amount of failures compared to the d3. Can anybody confirm this??
24th Jul 2010 8:18 pm
NJF
Member Since: 05 Oct 2007
Location: Gone
Posts: 2466
I have a 2010 RRS and the EPB is as questionable as it is on my 2007 D3. Most RRS never go off road and never build up the grit behind the EPB shoes that contribute to the problem.
The D3 EPB is very well-behaved since 10forcash adjusted it, although it has screamed a few times before it submitted to his firm hand.
I just don't use the RRS EPB unless I really must, and then I apply in neutral and let go the footbrake very, very gently until the car holds.
I agree that it would be great if they built something more robust, that would hold the car without nonsense, whatever the conditions.
I look forward to Project Icon's result.
24th Jul 2010 8:27 pm
TallPaul
Member Since: 03 Jan 2008
Location: Near Reading
Posts: 1214
Our D3 does not offroad, unless you count campsite grass, sure we know what it can do from experience day, but its mostly there for load carrying and being able to enter/exit the village next time it floods without floating sideways...
still get screamers once per year, and hb problems.
Still, thanks to bodsy's guide, adjustment has been easy and cured issues for another 12 months.
24th Jul 2010 10:03 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
AndrewW wrote:
The repair package is nearly complete!
Cost including special tool should be under £20; work should take an afternoon...
Basically the design-faulted gear-and-shaft is bored out with a 4mm reamer and the insert fitted, spring and circlip applied with special tool. Re-assemble. Refit EPB unit. Job done
Watch this space...
Andrew, Have you been able to make any progress on this? Bodsys Brake Bible
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
with the box and cables... (and a dose of sealant to close the box)
