Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
Engine won't crank? (Update)
I ordered a new pair of tie rods for my 07 D3 earlier this year as I started to notice a slight knocking and thought I would swap them over when changing to winter tyres.
So did the job last weekend, old tie rods rusted and had to be cut off, but otherwise a straight forward swap out. Feeling happy that I should be knock free after a test drive went off to work next morning. On way home a loud clunk started coming from left side mainly when going left hand bends. That evening checked tie rod bolts were tight and took another test drive but still loud clunk on left bends but getting worse.
I had a previous MOT advisory on left side lower ball joint so assumed that was the problem after changing link rods and ordered new lower wishbone.
Today started to strip down left side to replace lower wishbone arm and noticed the upper ball joint of new ARB tie rod was pulling away from upper arm. Must be the source of the loud clunk not the lower ball joint. New tie rod has failed! Starting to wonder if I did something wrong but previous tie rod changes havnt done this.
Has anyone else had a similar problem or any suggestions why tie rod ball joint separated so soon after fitting?
They were purchased on eBay and were sold as new Bearmach replacement parts.
Forbes
Last edited by fhb22266 on 6th Jan 2018 9:11 pm. Edited 3 times in total
18th Dec 2017 12:27 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713
Cheap ARB links are utter . Though at £4 each, you get what you pay for
Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
Hi Mikey,
EBay seller said they were Bearmach and cost me £15 each. I guess he sold me a dud! Have ordered another set from local supplier, so will see how these ones go.
Cheers
18th Dec 2017 2:27 pm
fhb22266
Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
Engine dead??
So completed the job on left side suspension; lower wishbone replaced, new ARB link rods (both sides), new discs and pads both front sides. Nice and pleased. Took a few days over Christmas holiday.
Went to start car after sitting in cold damp garage for a week. Turn key, all seemed ok. Started engine, turned over ok then various warning lights bleeping and died! Tried restart, just solenoid click, won't crank. Wondered about battery as it seemed low. Recharge made no difference. Jump start didn't help either. Took plunge and bought new battery today, still no joy. Read suggestions on forum. I can hand crank the crankshaft so sighed with relief, don't think it's crank failure.
Checked fuses, all look ok.
So, either alternator or Starter? Any other suggestions? Can anyone give me any tips on locating the source of the problem? How do I check starter and alternator?
Any idea why car started then stopped after few secs? Is that typical of alternator or starter failure? Damp could have affected it, was dripping wet under car all week, could have got into something electrical.
Any help greatly appreciated, need my wheels back!
Forbes.
28th Dec 2017 6:36 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1772
Sounds like water ingress to a connector. You can check the starter by removing its relay and put a jumper across the two large slots to see if starter turns. Another check is of the alternator fuse (large one I think it is 400 amps and blows if alternator shorted) to see if it is blown. check voltage across battery terminals should be greater than 12 volts, if not disconnect the alternator and see if it starts. Behind the battery box is a module that is very suspect where water is concerned, check the connectors on this.
29th Dec 2017 2:25 am
fhb22266
Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
Thanks, will try those checks.
F.
29th Dec 2017 7:37 am
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26683
I’d be checking the oil pump housing to see if the cam belt tensioner hasn’t fallen off. I hope not, but unless it’s been changed previously, it’s in the ‘at risk’ category!
Been able to hand turn the crank isn’t a guarantee that it hasn’t broken off.
29th Dec 2017 7:46 am
fhb22266
Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
Hi Gareth,
Mikey did a good job of my engine a couple years back when he installed a reccon' ed one after that exact problem happened to the original! He put the newer oil pump housing and timing belts on for me, so hopefully its not fallen off yet. Probably only done 20k since then.
29th Dec 2017 12:36 pm
fhb22266
Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
Globetrotter448 wrote:
Sounds like water ingress to a connector. You can check the starter by removing its relay and put a jumper across the two large slots to see if starter turns. Another check is of the alternator fuse (large one I think it is 400 amps and blows if alternator shorted) to see if it is blown. check voltage across battery terminals should be greater than 12 volts, if not disconnect the alternator and see if it starts. Behind the battery box is a module that is very suspect where water is concerned, check the connectors on this.
Is the 400a fuse the large black link between + battery terminal and large cable that comes out the side of battery box engine side? If so I checked the voltage from the lower side of the link to chassis and it's 0.4v?
Tried shorting the starter relay, get a clunk which I assume is solenoid engaging but starter doesnt crank, even turning key?
Yes its the big black one on the red + lead, you can just short it to start the car and then get the proper fuse for it. Dont get the Land Rover part its to expensive, just search ebay for 400 amp fuse and use one of these, last one I got was £6.00
Flack
30th Dec 2017 4:41 pm
fhb22266
Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
Thanks Flack.
I just removed the red cable from the alternator and still getting just the solenoid click, so will try shorting across the big fuse and see what happens.
30th Dec 2017 5:24 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10337
do you have power on the big red cable ?
do you have a test light ?
30th Dec 2017 5:30 pm
fhb22266
Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
Ok removed 400a fuse. No continuity and rattles when I shake it, so I think fuse has blown. Slightly worried about shorting it out though, if it's just a blown fuse no worries, but perhaps a short on either starter or alternator caused it to blow? Should I try shorting it out as I don't have a spare, or what's the safest way to check? Any suggestions?
30th Dec 2017 5:46 pm
fhb22266
Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
Just did a little calculation, 400a at 12v is equivalent to 20a at 240v, so would 20a fuse wire work the same? Or are my calculations worse than a 5 year olds?
30th Dec 2017 5:53 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72742
Last edited by DSL on 30th Dec 2017 6:11 pm. Edited 1 time in total
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum