Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4577
Voltage is critical on these given the number of modules. Pull the codes again once you have it charged up fully and post them here. Should be around 12.9v or thereabouts when full.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
8th Jan 2022 3:54 pm
Maxphilly
Member Since: 30 Nov 2019
Location: Dublin
Posts: 21
Hi did that test again
No change on fault codes same as before,
See photo,
Is ECM behind this plastic cover
4 bolts marked in green
And is the earth point there too?
Thanks again
8th Jan 2022 4:33 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4577
You don't need to remove the PCM, unplug the TCM harness and move them out of your way, You can then pop the clamps on the PCM plugs. Are you just checking the plugs/terminals?
Are the codes exactly as you posted earlier in the thread?
Edit: No earths there other than the battery ground.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
8th Jan 2022 4:40 pm
Maxphilly
Member Since: 30 Nov 2019
Location: Dublin
Posts: 21
Hi Thanks for that ,
Yes was just going to check for corrosion on the plugs etc,
Will do that tomorrow
Yes same codes came up
Will check earths in wheel arch tomorrow
Battery earth was good and 2 in front of battery
Any more on that side?
Where is the ECM earth actually located ?
Thanks
8th Jan 2022 4:57 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4577
The body of the unit and also via the harness but I wouldn't be concerned about that. If the plugs/pins look good with no green tarnish then leave it alone. Same for the TCM. Make sure you put the harness seals back correctly and the compartment cover. You do not want water getting in there!
Once it's all back and start the car, if nothing has changed try a few firm thumps on the dash above the instrument binnacle! MY07> suffer from dry joints in the processor and it's possible that's where your trouble stems from.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
8th Jan 2022 5:39 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4577
How did you get on? Did you try anything with the instrument cluster?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
10th Jan 2022 12:18 am
Maxphilly
Member Since: 30 Nov 2019
Location: Dublin
Posts: 21
This morning got back to her,
Tried your Jeremy clarkson fix good few thumps to dash no joy,
(none lead solder used in 2007 model cluster green apple did the same on I mac and graphics cards failed major issues)aircraft and med equipment still use lead
Decided to strip out centre console (gear stick) area valet guys might have spilt water
Down there ,nada spotless all connectors good too,
then went to area below glove box 3 connectors on side wall all perfect , earth points clean too
Still same faults coming up,battery back on new charger will try again later in week didn’t bother with connectors to ECM as no signs of any water ingress in that area and I had already stripped our TCM and it was clean no sign of any corrosion etc,earth points behind wheel will check later,
So after reading a lot of treads on this site and others I’m of the opinion it’s either,
1) Central junction box
2) instrument cluster
3) abs module
Hopefully when I get around to testing the hi and med can it might shed some light
10th Jan 2022 2:41 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4577
OK, so what are the capabilities of this diagnostic you are using?
Can you view "live values"? If so it would be worth going through the relevant control modules and looking at the component responses provided.
I see nothing specific in your fault code list for ABS, though that doesn't mean there isn't an issue being masked in say the VDM (for which there are codes)
If the tool is capable start with the relevant modules where there is a B, C, or P, dtc. You should be able to view the operation or voltage supply to a given component. For example, you should be able to see the ABS sensors respond to wheel movement, and therefore rule them out or otherwise! Go through each component in the relevant module where B, C, & P, faults are indicated, until hopefully you have found an anomaly. If you have a concern regarding a specific component, for example ABS, try firing the solenoids if not in "live values" then in the Brake bleed function!
If that produces nothing, then go after the modules with "U" dtc's which are specifically bus failure related, leaving the "lost comms" faults until last. (see fault code link at the bottom)
Start with the basic component live actuation / operational (on/off it's working) value where possible, and then move to the signals (voltage) supply and return. I'd do it with the engine running starting with the IPC, PCM, VDM, etc. I have used iCarsoft in the distant past, so I'm not familiar with it's latest capabilities. For the most part, and like many on here, I use GAP diagnostics because it's a dedicated LR tool, and because of the fantastic back-up from GAP if you're stuck.
If you find an anomaly come back and post it here we may be able to whittle down the location for you. Lastly, I would suggest you have a look at the large block terminal connectors on the n/s/r chassis rail. The blocks themselves are not troublesome, so for now you can leave them intact. It's the cables entering and exiting which are exposed, and very often become chipped which leads to corrosion and eventual breakage. In this case it looks the less likely possibility, but in the past it has more often than not been the cause which was very easily repaired.
I hope this doesn't come across as trying to teach you to "suck eggs" but I don't know your level of experience!
Member Since: 30 Nov 2019
Location: Dublin
Posts: 21
Thanks for your lengthy reply appreciate you giving me the time,
I’ll admit I am a novice when it comes to this type of motor electronics but am willing
to learn most of my experience has been with tools / house electrics and older motors I had before diagnostic tools were required,
I know now I should have bought the gap unit my Icarsoft is jaguar/Land Rover specific
Also only learning how to use it never had a diagnostic tool before
Reason I’m trying to fix this myself is
Firstly the only person I trust to work on her (and he has been excellent)is unwell at the moment
every guy who worked on it before made a mess
Secondly, not interested in dealing with LR dealers as they just replace parts and change a fortune
truck not work spending that type of money on it.
I did ring around a few specialists when I told them the problem they weren’t interested
just fobbed me off
Anyways I’ll plod on for a while
Thanks again for your help
10th Jan 2022 5:33 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4577
You're not the first one to experience poor standards of service when it comes to working on LR (or other makes for that matter)
Consider what I said earlier regarding going through the modules in "live values" and component actuation! You'll get there, just have a go! yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
10th Jan 2022 7:10 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1771
Are all brake lights working?
11th Jan 2022 8:13 am
Maxphilly
Member Since: 30 Nov 2019
Location: Dublin
Posts: 21
11th Jan 2022 9:14 am
Maxphilly
Member Since: 30 Nov 2019
Location: Dublin
Posts: 21
Cluster Failure/Repair
Finally after a long period of my Discovery 3 lying on its ass in the driveway, it’s back and driving perfectly.
What was it you might ask it, was the dam Cluster, all other modules / wiring points etc were perfect. I diagnosed it eventually through trial and error, that was end of January early February. Anyway, so I sent the cluster off to Turner’s uk for repair, big mistake, firstly it was held up in customs looking for import duty etc, on receipt of cluster I paid bill for repair upfront….then I waited,waited,waited, nada eventually made contact with them and was told I was down the list for repair , waited waited, waited, then around the end of march I get a phone call to say my cluster is beyond repair as someone had previously repaired it and literally made a mess of all the circuits with a very bad soldering job, turns out that was done last September by my previous mechanic who had sent the cluster for repair to a company in west Dublin as they had left their sticker on the back of it.
Now I was offered by Turners a replacement similar Cluster for extra €, which would be a virgin unit , so I paid that and waited waited ,then mid April irish customs wanted €90 to release it, paid that, got Cluster and fitted it , towed D3 to a new LR mechanic I found near me for programming, and it turned out he couldn’t do it as it was a RR Sports cluster! with all the vin etc details still on it!! (not a virgin unit!!!). Sent an email to Turner’s and they didn’t even bother to reply, (impossible to contact them by phone never answer ).I went to our main LR dealership and they would not entertain programming a secondhand cluster.
So I bit the bullet and bought a brand spanking new one €1300 fitted it and my LR mechanic programmed it no problem Voilà here I am today enjoying my D3 again.
Waisted a lot of time and money trying to repair it on the cheap.
My advise to anyone who has similar problems A) get a proper diagnosis B) buy and fit a new part
All these so called refurb shops are not worth the grief, time and cost ( my failed exercise cost me the guts of €700 and let’s not go into the number of hours)
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