did you check the oil level after the flush following the zf guide?
it could be better for you to find someone able to perform a full flushing procedure under pressure using an appropriate machine such as the wynns or the spin
F.
16th May 2011 11:37 am
johoso1
Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: Copenhagen
Posts: 20
They have posted different videos of cars - also ZF in jaguars.
I think this is the way to go as i also have an old Daimler v12 from 82 and Jaguar Mk2 form 61 - both with autogearboxes.
The german has written a lot of facts about the autoboxes and the "sealed for life" concept. More or less he recommends gearfluid changed every 50.000 km
I think I will go for this solution and do another cleaningfluid+flush with this equipment with my spare ZF-fluid.
Johan
16th May 2011 11:53 am
RSAChris
Member Since: 16 Apr 2010
Location: Centurion RSA
Posts: 154
Done mine on Friday...
I got the oil (8 litres) and the BMW sump pan and separate filter with seal and shorter bolts from ZF Manufacturing in Joburg.
Drained the oil as Filly described, but did not have his helper nearby... so when the car was started, the extension pipe flew out of the bucket and spew oil all over my garage... I jumped at it, grabbed it like a fire hose out of control and aimed for the bucket.... eventually got another 4 litres into the bucket...
Then started to undo all the old filter pan screws (21 of them)... but the 9 ones situated just above the cross bars had me swearing... and wishing that my son with his long thin hands were there. Then spilled another liter or more over the only dry patch on the garage floor....
Spent some time cleaning up (actually resting my arms that totally did not want to work anymore) - uhm... I forgot to raise the car before draining the fluids...... so I was Leopard-crawling under the car...
Fitted new filter and pan... took me another few hours to tighten the screws... those hard to get at 9 ones....
Then put 5 liters in via the still disconnected oil cooler and refitted the hose. Started the car, went through the gears and put in another 1.5 liters when temp got to 40 degrees C.
I still did not fit the gearbox sump guard, I need to check for leaks....
Oh, it is still smooth and no mirracles to report, but it is clean and healthy now.
Also changed the brake disks, pads and sensors all round, and the cool blue intercooler hose too... 8)
Cheers
CSProud owner of an IIDTool
2010 Disco 4 TDV6 SE
R2D3 the 2007 Disco 3 TDV6 SE... gone now
Romulus [Defender 110 CSW Td5] will always be missed
Rofty [Defender 110 CSW Td5] first Td5 and start of motor electronics...
www.flickr.com/photos/the_steyns
Drained the oil as Filly described, but did not have his helper nearby... so when the car was started, the extension pipe flew out of the bucket and spew oil all over my garage... I jumped at it, grabbed it like a fire hose out of control and aimed for the bucket.... eventually got another 4 litres into the bucket...
same as my first attempt
round 5 liters all over the yard
spent half day washing the yard floor with gasoline and pressure washer... a real ing nightmare
can't report what SWMBO said when she came home...
F.
10th Aug 2011 7:59 pm
redjelly5000
Member Since: 18 Jul 2008
Location: Rugby
Posts: 473
With regards to what oil to use in the UK, (not sure about availability elsewhere) I spent days researching this matter and spoke directly with the manufacturers of several products and detailed the reults of my research here:
I did mine with the Duradrive about 35k ago now and it's been fantastic since. My car works hard, 109k on the clock, and often has 3.5t on the hitch. In my research though, I also found out which ones are NOT suitable, and the manufacturers of Castrol Multi car, Millermatic, and also all Dexron 6 fluids say they do NOT meet the spec of Shell M1375.4 so be careful if you choose to use them.D3 TDV6 HSE 2008 Buckingham Blue (current)
D3 TDV6 HSE 2009 Zermatt Silver (previous)
D3 TDV6 HSE 2005 Maya Gold (previous)
D2 TD5 ES 1999 (previous)
Defender TD5 swb hard top 2005 (previous)
Defender 300tdi swb hard top 1994 (previous)
12th Aug 2011 5:10 pm
KOOS BEST
Member Since: 14 Feb 2010
Location: Mtunzini
Posts: 122
This video shows a guy draining oil on a ZF 6HP26 from a Jaguar XK 8 . He uses a Mercron SP oil, some of the comments say it's a higher spec than the LIFEGUARD 6 oil from ZF.
1st Nov 2011 4:39 pm
vbrab
Member Since: 05 Jul 2011
Location: Pilbara
Posts: 12
RE chnaging oil and pan
Dear FILO, thankyou, most informative and innovative post for homestyle mega flush. Changing the pan is pretty straightforward and quite easy. (Easier than the dealers would have you believe.)
I bought steel pan and filter kit, with bolts, and 20l drum of oil from ZF direct (I am in Australia) and they were best price of anybody, including the 4000k freight charge to get it to me.
My steps were lift vehicle, drain oil into suitable container, undo rear box bolt (through round mount at rear of box, then jack up box, use Torx allen keys to get at end pan bolts, drop pan (more loose oil), swing to passengers side of car, pull down on tray and snap off filter. Make sure that seal on tube from filter comes out with tube, Easy replacment after that. I used Hylomar as seal on all surfaces of gasket and pan, and you already know how to replace oil. Replacing Mechatronic seal is a bit tricky/fiddly, I used surgical gloves to avoid bridging internal terminals through static. (Plenty of references on net about that point.)
But thank you for informative post on oil change, regards vbrab
i'm afraid but i can't remember at the mo. Better you ask someone who has recently done the job
btw it's easy to locate it if you ask swmbo or a kid to start the car and suddenly switch it off while you hold both the hoses in a transparent bottle.
sorry Mike
F.
7th Jan 2012 2:14 pm
CUCO
Member Since: 27 May 2011
Location: Spain & Oleee!!!
Posts: 609
RSAChris wrote:
I got the oil (8 litres) and the BMW sump pan and separate filter with seal and shorter bolts from ZF Manufacturing in Joburg.
could you post please the BMW references of the BMW parts you needed please, im thinking in making the conversion to the steel pan in my next fluid change.
Thank you very much RSAChris!
8th Jan 2012 11:21 pm
RSAChris
Member Since: 16 Apr 2010
Location: Centurion RSA
Posts: 154
Hi Cuco
I don't have the ZF part numbers - but I was told it is the parts that is used on the BMW X5 6-speed gearbox - it is the BMW 6HP26 – 6HP28 gearbox.
Cheers
CSProud owner of an IIDTool
2010 Disco 4 TDV6 SE
R2D3 the 2007 Disco 3 TDV6 SE... gone now
Romulus [Defender 110 CSW Td5] will always be missed
Rofty [Defender 110 CSW Td5] first Td5 and start of motor electronics...
www.flickr.com/photos/the_steyns
9th Jan 2012 10:08 am
Mike767
Member Since: 15 Oct 2008
Location: Congleton, Cheshire.
Posts: 138
I have just completed this job thanks to Filo's excellent guide. I did a lot of research on which oil to use and eventually went with the Millermatic ATF DM. They recommend it for the D3 on their website and it cost me £55 for 10 litres.
The pipe that Filo is pointing at in his photo is the outlet, which I extended using an adapter and piece of garden hose. I then got the wife to run the engine until oil stopped coming out and got just under 4 litres in my bucket. In addition, I drained another litre at the filter sump and then replaced the plug.
To refill, I just connected a piece of (dry) garden hose to the union that the outflow had been connected to and hooked it up to a pressure garden spray which was big enough to take the 5 litres of Millermatic.
I drove the car about 10 miles and repeated the whole exercise again. There was a big improvement in the oil after the first flush so it should be pretty good after the second. Very easy job and it seems to have got rid of the shudders usually encountered on the hill on the way to the pub!
19th Jan 2012 8:03 pm
HCanada
Member Since: 23 Jan 2013
Location: Ontario
Posts: 5
Old tread.... But I wanted to add
Hi all, I have read this tread with much interest as I have had 1 x BMW 530d and an Audi 2.5tdi, both with auto box.
On both motors I replaced the auto oil by this method...
First, check for leaks and be comfortable your oil level is correct......easy
Then clamp both inlet and outlet pipes as close as possible to the transmission oil cooler (either long nose mole grips or proper pipe clamps)
Disconnect the LOWEST pipe from the oil cooler and measure the volume drained from the oil cooler ( COOLVOL) ( leave it draining whilst you continue)
Determine your inlet and outlet ( I did this using a Haynes manual for the Audi and googling for the BMW, easy to find out)
INLET pipe add an extension (clear if possible) and securely stick it into an empty 25ltr tub (A)
OUTLET pipe add an extension and put it in your tub (B) of new trans oil (the oil cooler outlet is the 'inlet for the box)
I knew for example the BMW holds a total capacity of 9ltrs inc torque covert or, so I filled a nice new clean 10 later tub with Trans oil.
RELEASE THE HOSE CLAMPS
I have a helper run the engine until clean oil is cycled through and is seen in flowing into tub (A). Shut the engine off and clamp off both pipes going to A&B.
Reconnect the oil cooler inlet and force COOLVOL of extra oil from a squeeze bottle down the outlet pipe to compensate for the fluid loss from the oil cooler.... Reconnect, put the kettle on for a brew.
Give or take a tiny percent, what came out went in and the level is correct ! You will use prob about 1ltr of oil more in waste.
This is just for replacing the oil with fresh................ If your removing the sump for a filter change then it gets a bit more tricky.... I have not done this, but if i was this is what I would do. drain the sump and measure the sump amount ( normally 1/2 to 2/3 total capacity) replace the filter etc etc and refit the sump. Locate a fill point on the box and replace the quantity just drained from the sump. Then proceed to follow my above procedure.
This worked for me...... My BMW failed at 270000 km, it originated from perished O rings on the solenoids that allowed pressure to leaked so the plates were not fully engaged..... From my understanding this is actually the main common cause of total failure on the ZF and GM auto boxes. I also know people who have serviced these O rings during a tranny service ( BMW actually do a service kit)
I have only just got the landrover so not searched to much.........
24th Jan 2013 3:13 am
catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
Mike767 wrote:
The pipe that Filo is pointing at in his photo is the outlet
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
and do another cleaningfluid+flush with this equipment with my spare ZF-fluid.
ones situated just above the cross bars had me swearing... and wishing that my son with his long thin hands were there. Then spilled another liter or more over the only dry patch on the garage floor.... 
so I was Leopard-crawling under the car...
