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FILO's autobox oil change
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riverblanche
 


Member Since: 31 Aug 2010
Location: retford'ish
Posts: 983

England 

Hi,
just doing a partial drain and top up Mannol AG55

Don't remember any comments about the drain plug having Notches on the outside of the plug
so when you undo it, it feels like it is slipping round

more un-nerving when you nip it back up as you are not sure if it is tight up against a Notch or tight into the sump Embarassed

Have run through the gears and having a sandwich now before re-checking for any leaks

3.6L drained via the sump plug Thumbs Up
 .
Life advice. Always pick up the stick in the Middle !!

Club DG Mclaren jacket and it fits better now
.
2016 RRS2 its a ! 


Last edited by riverblanche on 3rd Jul 2017 3:52 pm. Edited 1 time in total 
Post #18327472nd Jul 2017 2:23 pm
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garrycol
 


Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 561

Australia 

Reading through the posts the amount of oil required seems to vary - I will be doing a change to a metal sump and the flush - the view seems to be that just under 10 litres will be required but it does seem to vary.

So how much oil do I need to have at the ready before I start the process so I dont run out half way through. I have 10 1 litre bottles now but thinking I need a couple more to ensure I dont run out mid change.

Thanks

Garry
  
Post #18329013rd Jul 2017 12:36 am
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KostasA
 


Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: nairobi
Posts: 124

Greece 

when i did mine i got 4 lit out of the radiator and 2lt (or more) from the sump. i believe that with 10 lit you can double flush from the radiator (filo's method) or do radiator and sump, which you will end up using 6 to 7 lit maximum.
  
Post #18329223rd Jul 2017 6:25 am
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garrycol
 


Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 561

Australia 

Thanks so I think I will get more.
  
Post #18334484th Jul 2017 11:12 am
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garrycol
 


Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 561

Australia 

On the basis of this thread has a "Bodsy Bible" style of document been produced that succinctly covers the procedure - reading back over the entire thread the process gets a bit muddied with all the different views and comments.

I have got 15 litres of oil, the metal pan etc all ready to go but am still a bit confused as there are 11 pages of information to filter if I come across a snag during the process.

Cheers

Garry
  
Post #18661138th Oct 2017 12:37 pm
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garrycol
 


Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 561

Australia 

I guess not.
  
Post #186678210th Oct 2017 1:00 am
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Tripe
 


Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 124

Australia 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

If you not going to change the filter, I reckon you could do a DIY mega flush.

I purchased 20 litre of Fuchs ATF, it had readable increments on the side to see the volume left in the container,

You could run a length of 1/2" tube from the new atf fluid container to the radiator nipple, and from
The disconnected rubber ATF line connect some 1/2" tubing to an empty 20 litre drum.

Turn the car on and the new oil will be sucked into the cooler, while the old oil is deposited into the waste drum, when the oil changes colour from black to the new atf fluid colour, turn the engine off

Then remove the plug from the side of the transmission and topup with fluid.
  
Post #186678810th Oct 2017 5:26 am
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KostasA
 


Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: nairobi
Posts: 124

Greece 

i did it a little bit differently, start the car pull the fund out and then pump it in (manually) from the container.
are you sure that fluid will be sucked from the container?
  
Post #186692910th Oct 2017 12:49 pm
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Pete K
 


Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 1701

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini RedDiscovery 3

there are videos on youtube with different cars.

Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
  
Post #186708010th Oct 2017 5:06 pm
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sputnixb51
 


Member Since: 23 Apr 2013
Location: Morayshire
Posts: 667

Scotland 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

I had judder awhile back and had the machine flush done which improved my situation and with the addition of Dr tranny completely sorted it until a few weeks ago when as others have said along the way the judder comes back. I bought a low mileage auto box and T/C to replace mine, then my cousin sadly unexpectedly died (RIP)making the job urgent so I nipped into Pentland Elgin to get oil cooler pipe “O” rings they said they had never ever had had any through the Parts department even for the workshop ? Entered my head so I had a word with a shop floor worker and he said they had never replaced a T/C or gearbox on A D3 only the oil and Filter. ( I realise they may not have had 150,000 milers in except for people who always get maintenance done by LR) So I got oil and the ZF metal pan and replaceable filter kit which by the way does have a drainer in it from Advanced factors as usual brilliant service thanks. I then did Filos method and obviously replaced old sump filter for the new one. I went for a drive hoping it would at least be good enough to do the 2,000 mile trip to the funeral and maybe have to put in more Dr Tranny. I was gob smacked the gearbox is smoother than ever before and changes gear unnoticed unlike before no judder and no addition of further Dr Tranny. I will report back after my long trip. Fingers XED.
  
Post #186711010th Oct 2017 6:00 pm
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Tripe
 


Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 124

Australia 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

KostasA wrote:
i did it a little bit differently, start the car pull the fund out and then pump it in (manually) from the container.
are you sure that fluid will be sucked from the container?


Have I tried this method, NO

but a simple check, to see if their is any negative pressure at
The radiator nipple when flushing fluid out of the disconnected pipe would be the first thing to determine.

The other thing I would try, would be placing a piece of plastic pipe between the waste conatianer
And new atf oil container, all the connections would need to be air tight. When the engine is turned
On, positive pressure would be created in the waste container which would pressure the new atf fluid container and push the new atf fluid into the radiator

It would also be worth putting a car tyre valve or similar on the waste containers and putting a bit of pressure in the container to the point where you can see the new atf fluid starting to move up the plastic tubing to the radiator nipple. Then turn the motor on, this should be a closed circuit, which will transfuse the new oil into the transmission and the waste oil into the waste container.

Then you measure what oil was deposited in the waste container vs what was taken out
Of the new oil container, with the differing amount topped up at the fill level hole in the transmission
  
Post #186720910th Oct 2017 9:37 pm
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garrycol
 


Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 561

Australia 

The last few posts highlight the problems I have with this thread - lots a differing ideas etc so looking for a definitive process that has been published - I guessing has not been done.

I am concerned about doing the wrong thing so I think I will just pay an expert to do it - there are too many differing views on this thread.
  
Post #186723211th Oct 2017 1:58 am
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Tripe
 


Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 124

Australia 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

There is more than one way to skin a cat, you will need to pick the method you are most comfortable with.
  
Post #186723511th Oct 2017 2:35 am
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KostasA
 


Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: nairobi
Posts: 124

Greece 

garrycol,
i don't see why you are worried about. as mentioned there are more than one ways to do it. i for example has done Filo's method manually and had a great result.
Tripe is describing a more sophisticated way to do things. so choose your method and proceed.
  
Post #186724211th Oct 2017 5:12 am
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sputnixb51
 


Member Since: 23 Apr 2013
Location: Morayshire
Posts: 667

Scotland 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

Update after 2008 miles the gearbox and T/C remain smoother than ever, I also notice that a sort of groan there used to be from the gearbox at idle has also disappeared. My next statement will probably be controversial here goes before I changed the filter and gearbox oil I had occasion to accelerate really hard (not a normal way for me to drive) the judder was instant and violent when I came down to a slower speed it was still violent and at tickover you would think both the engine and gearbox were actually going to fall out onto the ground the judder was so violent I thought something must have come adrift and gone out of balance. I now think that there must have been Cavitation in the torque converter!
I will update again after hopefully more trouble free miles.
  
Post #18762356th Nov 2017 12:51 pm
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