Advertise on DISCO3.CO.UK
Forum · Gallery · Wiki · Shop · Sponsors
DISCO3.CO.UK > Maintenance & Mods (D3)

FILO's autobox oil change
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 12 123 ... 101112>
filo
 


Member Since: 09 Jul 2010
Location: here, down in the north, where the fog is
Posts: 605

Italy 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 XS Auto Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3
FILO's autobox oil change

Today project is to change autobox oil.
I started searching someone able to flush it but it seems here in Italy this is impossible.
Did a LOT of phone calls, to ZF service centers too, but nobody owns a wynns or a spin flushing machine so I decided to do it myself.
Second challenge was to find a valid alternative to the Shell M1375.4 and my choice fell on the Esso ATF LT71141 AKA ZF Lifeguard5.
First of all the ESSO is enlisted as an 11B fluid (so better than an 11A). See updated ZF TE-ML 11 at
http://tinyurl.com/25yt683
Then it is a semi-sinthetic. Everyone is aware of risks of mixing mineral and synthetic fluids and this is the reason why I choosed the semi-sinthetic; I thought probably the synthetic base was studied to “live” with the mineral one.
Last but not least I got it for 6,90euros per litre for the 20 liters can.
This is a doc that confirms my choice… or not.
http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/Rec_lubes_disco3.htm
I know this has been discussed MANY times and I do not recommend using fluids that are not “approved” ones. Just my two cents.

To do the job I decided to “intercept” the autobox outlet pipe before the oil cooler that I know is built in the radiator. Following the hose from the autobox I got to the engine bay exactly here
Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge


Then I disconnected the hose from the radiator and connected two extension hoses both to the inlet and to the outlet (see pic).
Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge


Probably I’m a bit stupid but I didn’t know which one could be the outlet so I asked “Filo’s Little Helper” (FLH)
Click image to enlarge

to start the engine and suddenly shut it down to check for the outlet. This is the pipe that comes from the autobox.

Then I asked again FLH to start the engine and shut it down when I would have ordered to.
In less than one minute I got 7 liters of old ATF in my graduated jerrycan (I remember the initial charge of the 6HP26 is 9,5 liters).
Click image to enlarge

This is a sample of what I got.
Click image to enlarge


Later on I used my improvised and low cost pneumatic pump for oil transfer* to fill in the fresh fluid. The process is quite simple. First of all start the engine to get as much old oil as possible from the outlet (don’t let the engine started for more than 2 minutes… why? I don’t know, that’s it, my two cents), check for the volume and pump the same quantity of new fluid into the system by filling the impro pneu oil pump and pressurize it while connected to the inlet (the engine must be shut down).
Later on I reconnected the whole piping and drived the car for 30 km or so and repeted the process.
I wasn’t able to get transparent fluid at the end of the second flush and I don’t know why. Probably I should have changed the filter pan too, but it seemed too tricky for me.
I’m planning to change the filter pan in the future and repeat the flush one time more.
I didn’t experience significant improvements in driving the car (probably a slightly better mileage), but mine had no problem at all before the oil change. I did it as a preventative measure.
I’m planning to buy a “serious” pneumatic oil pump like art. 3327 for less than 135 euros.
http://www.flexbimec.it/jsps/techlist_b.js...rofile=all
they’re 10km far from me

*This is my improvised pneumatic oil pump:
First I bought a solid plastic jerrycan, then I drilled the plug and installed a bicycle tyre valve to be able to inflate with compressed air. Then I installed a 10mm quick coupling to be able to plug in my blue extension plastic hose.
Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Of course I needed a pressure test so I filled the can with water and pressurized till 2 bar (very impressive).
Click image to enlarge


Then I spilled the water and left it at the sun for 2 or 3 days to get it completely dry (it must be COMPLETELY dry otherwise I would have pumped water in the autobox).
This is the can I used to pump the fresh fluid into the autobox by the extension hose connected to the barb onto the oil cooler inlet.

does anyone of you DIYers change the filter pan? Is it difficult?

PS: I apologize for my English and for the pics. I’m not so skilled in using photo editors.

Filippo
  
Post #6899856th Sep 2010 2:54 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Bodsy
Site Sponsor 


Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 20794

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Hey interesting write up there Filo. I wonder if you had pressurised the inlet from your can first if you couldn't have just done a complete cycle of fluid like a low tech version of the Megaflush?

Just being careful how much fluid was going in and out.

I think the filter pan will still be holding plenty of dark fluid, so a complete change may be the only way (don't forget that the auto box should (ideally) be double flushed. Thumbs Up
 Bodsys Brake Bible

D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling


Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here 
 
Post #6899936th Sep 2010 3:16 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Send e-mail Reply with quote
filo
 


Member Since: 09 Jul 2010
Location: here, down in the north, where the fog is
Posts: 605

Italy 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 XS Auto Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

Bodsy wrote:
Hey interesting write up there Filo. I wonder if you had pressurised the inlet from your can first if you couldn't have just done a complete cycle of fluid like a low tech version of the Megaflush?

Just being careful how much fluid was going in and out.

I think the filter pan will still be holding plenty of dark fluid, so a complete change may be the only way (don't forget that the auto box should (ideally) be double flushed. Thumbs Up


first i got the old fluid from the outlet with the engine turned on
than stopped the engine and pumped the fresh fluid into the inlet port by pressurising the can
  
Post #6899956th Sep 2010 3:26 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
filo
 


Member Since: 09 Jul 2010
Location: here, down in the north, where the fog is
Posts: 605

Italy 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 XS Auto Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

Bodsy wrote:
I think the filter pan will still be holding plenty of dark fluid, so a complete change may be the only way (don't forget that the auto box should (ideally) be double flushed. Thumbs Up


after Ian's suggestion I decided to change the filter pan and repeat the flush checking the oil level too
i'll get the official LR007474 for (E89,60 -15% rebate)+20%VAT

speaking with the "official" guy he told me they have an internal guideline for replacing the original ATF Shell M1375.4 with the Pakelo ATF DX.VI (dexron 6?, the red one?) at E18,00 per litre + VAT.
they're selling the original TYK500050 for E28,00 per litre + VAT and the Esso LT 71141 for E22,00 + VAT Shocked

hope this helps
F.
  
Post #69245113th Sep 2010 10:44 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Tawny Owl
 


Member Since: 22 Oct 2008
Location: North Devon
Posts: 1578

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 Base 7 Seat Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Hi Filo Thumbs Up

Good write up , you have obviously spent alot time and effort on this , thanks for taking the time and sharing it with us , much appreciated Thumbs Up
  
Post #69245913th Sep 2010 10:58 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MRWOO
 


Member Since: 26 Jun 2010
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 181

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3

I am planning to do this oil change once I have decided on the best oil to use. My question is whether you need to flush the gearbox when you can change the oil more frequently, say every 2nd service or 30k mile intervals. This way I only have to worry about replacing the sump and what oil I can?
 1964 Series IIA SWB Truck Cab - gone
1981 Series III SWB Hardtop - gone
1982 Series III SWB Hardtop - gone
1997 300Tdi Defender 90 Hardtop - gone
1983 Series III SWB Station Wagon - gone
1979 Series III SWB Station Wagon - gone
2007 90 CSW - gone
2010 USW XS - gone

1959 Series II Truck Cab - currently rebuilding
2006 Disco3 - awesome! 
 
Post #69247113th Sep 2010 11:38 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Bodsy
Site Sponsor 


Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 20794

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Any new oil that is introduced into the system will help to re-invigorate the existing oil, so you could replace the oil only at more regular intervals, but the Pan filter should really still need changing at some point through the cycle (LR say 150k at the moment).

There was a test in the states of a car doing over 100,000 miles without changing the oil although they were allowed to top the oil up with new and replace a certain (measured) quantity when they did tests on it. Can't find it now though.

They did scientific analysis of the oil and when you top up with a litle new oil (OK it was engine oil, not gearbox, but the same principle applies) proved that the oil re-gained good properties to be able to keep going. Thumbs Up
 Bodsys Brake Bible

D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling


Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here 
 
Post #69247413th Sep 2010 11:45 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Send e-mail Reply with quote
MRWOO
 


Member Since: 26 Jun 2010
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 181

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3

Bodsy wrote:
Any new oil that is introduced into the system will help to re-invigorate the existing oil, so you could replace the oil only at more regular intervals, but the Pan filter should really still need changing at some point through the cycle (LR say 150k at the moment).

There was a test in the states of a car doing over 100,000 miles without changing the oil although they were allowed to top the oil up with new and replace a certain (measured) quantity when they did tests on it. Can't find it now though.

They did scientific analysis of the oil and when you top up with a litle new oil (OK it was engine oil, not gearbox, but the same principle applies) proved that the oil re-gained good properties to be able to keep going. Thumbs Up


Good point there Bodsy, I am planning to change the sump/filter just not sure how to get all the oil out easily. Have you or anyone got a definitive list on what oil is a replacement or better for the Shell stuff? I have searched and searched and there are so many views. Confused
 1964 Series IIA SWB Truck Cab - gone
1981 Series III SWB Hardtop - gone
1982 Series III SWB Hardtop - gone
1997 300Tdi Defender 90 Hardtop - gone
1983 Series III SWB Station Wagon - gone
1979 Series III SWB Station Wagon - gone
2007 90 CSW - gone
2010 USW XS - gone

1959 Series II Truck Cab - currently rebuilding
2006 Disco3 - awesome! 
 
Post #69247713th Sep 2010 11:51 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Bodsy
Site Sponsor 


Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 20794

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Seems that there are more and more oils available in the future, but the one that seemed to be OK by various others on here in UK is

Stu wrote:
Ok well I've been talking to miller oils and I need Miller Matic DM. ... £26 per 5 litres, getting 15 in total so we can dso the double flush.


Seems to be good for what you need. Thumbs Up
 Bodsys Brake Bible

D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling


Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here 
 
Post #69248313th Sep 2010 12:02 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Send e-mail Reply with quote
filo
 


Member Since: 09 Jul 2010
Location: here, down in the north, where the fog is
Posts: 605

Italy 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 XS Auto Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

I finally managed to change the fluid pan filter and the fluid itself again
I've done it this morning to a friend's garage who let me use one of his hydraulic ramps

the job is tricky enough
the pan doesn't come out without loosening one engine support as well as the autobox support
than the engine must be lifted and supported Sad
the fluid was enough transparent but now i've got a wonderful autobox new fluid Razz

the filter pan was clean and the two magnets were clean as well
i assume my autobox is quite new after 79000km

i followed the well known procedure for the top fill
http://jaguarforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37802
I didn't use the termometer, but my hand. When the filter pan was warm (as my children are when they've got the temperature), i opened the filler plug and dripped out the excess.

i plan to flush it again in other 50000km

Filippo
  
Post #70341714th Oct 2010 11:42 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
RSAChris
 


Member Since: 16 Apr 2010
Location: Centurion RSA
Posts: 149

South Africa 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 SE Auto Ipanema SandDiscovery 4

filo wrote:
I finally managed to change the fluid pan filter and the fluid itself again
I've done it this morning to a friend's garage who let me use one of his hydraulic ramps


Hi Flippo

I followed your oil changes. This is the first time you changed the filter too?

Was the filter very dirty? As you say: the oil was transparent - it seems your double flush cleaned out enough dirty oil when you've done it before.

Cheers
Christo
 Proud owner of an IIDTool
2010 Disco 4 TDV6 SE
R2D3 the 2007 Disco 3 TDV6 SE... gone now
Romulus [Defender 110 CSW Td5] will always be missed
Rofty [Defender 110 CSW Td5] first Td5 and start of motor electronics...
www.flickr.com/photos/the_steyns 
 
Post #70343014th Oct 2010 12:21 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
filo
 


Member Since: 09 Jul 2010
Location: here, down in the north, where the fog is
Posts: 605

Italy 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 XS Auto Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

Quote:
I followed your oil changes. This is the first time you changed the filter too?

Yes it is, first time
Bodsy persuaded me to change the filter pan
thanks Ian

Quote:
Was the filter very dirty? As you say: the oil was transparent - it seems your double flush cleaned out enough dirty oil when you've done it before.

no sir, the filter was clean
I broke the plastic gland to be able so the inside of the filter and inspect it for mud, dirt, metal pieces ans so on but i found it clean
and yes it seems the first two flushes cleaned the dirt
Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

also aluminum parts were clean, i mean not painted of dirt
the 7 (or 8, or 6, i can't remember) colored solenoids were clean as well
the magnets were clean too, i mean no metal pieces trapped
Click image to enlarge


now I'm 79K on the clock
I plan to flush it again after 50k, when i'll be round 130K

Filippo
  
Post #70346414th Oct 2010 1:31 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
RSAChris
 


Member Since: 16 Apr 2010
Location: Centurion RSA
Posts: 149

South Africa 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 SE Auto Ipanema SandDiscovery 4

Aaah thanks Flippo, this is great news.

I will double flush, same as you earlier this year. My car is almost on 100,000Km. I will then also do every 50,000Km as I often tow a heavy caravan as well.

Cheers
Christo
 Proud owner of an IIDTool
2010 Disco 4 TDV6 SE
R2D3 the 2007 Disco 3 TDV6 SE... gone now
Romulus [Defender 110 CSW Td5] will always be missed
Rofty [Defender 110 CSW Td5] first Td5 and start of motor electronics...
www.flickr.com/photos/the_steyns 
 
Post #70346914th Oct 2010 1:38 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
filo
 


Member Since: 09 Jul 2010
Location: here, down in the north, where the fog is
Posts: 605

Italy 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 XS Auto Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

I forgot to post this pic
Click image to enlarge

googled and....
http://www.spxfiltran.com/home/index.asp
click on "products & services"
then hit "automotive aftermarket"
which is the black filter in the first picture? Whistle
Mr. Green

F.
  
Post #70347114th Oct 2010 1:40 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
johoso1
 


Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: Copenhagen
Posts: 18

Denmark 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Buckingham BlueDiscovery 3
Only 4,2 liters came out!!

Hi everybody,
Did the flush like discribed by Filo - an easy job and the small pressure system to pump new fluid in is just great.
But only 4,2 liters came out in total by drainplug an the return hose from the oilcooler.
Should I be nervus? The gearbox doesnt feel different after changing 4,2 liters - but i suppose that is not a big surprise.
Should I check fluidlevel?

Regards
Johan, DK
  
Post #79617813th May 2011 3:09 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Display posts from the last:  
Post Reply Back to top
Page 1 of 12 123 ... 101112>
Jump to:  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >


Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



DISCO3.CO.UK Copyright © 2004-2017 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DISCO3.CO.UK RSS Feed - All Forums Follow DISCO3.CO.UK on twitter

DISCO3.CO.UK is independent and not affiliated to Land Rover.
Switch to Mobile Site