MarkOne
Member Since: 23 Jul 2011
Location: County Antrim
Posts: 3345
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Very clear write up good job
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26th Aug 2013 5:33 am |
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Beretta
Member Since: 11 Oct 2012
Location: Rochdale
Posts: 1180
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Got mine done today, but my tracking is way out, to the point that it's undriveable.
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26th Aug 2013 8:55 pm |
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Slammedorion
Member Since: 21 Aug 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 50
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I've tried the 2nd side today...
Bolted it back together lol...
Gotta get is on the ramp to get grinding again...
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26th Aug 2013 9:10 pm |
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Beretta
Member Since: 11 Oct 2012
Location: Rochdale
Posts: 1180
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Over the bank holiday weekend I have been doing mine, and got it all completed yesterday, but now its un-driveable as the tracking is that far out, it pulls massively to one side and gives tyre squeal as you drive. I planned to get the RAC to tow it down to ATS for the tracking, but I don't have home start
Looks like I am going to have to do the 3 mile drive....
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27th Aug 2013 1:20 pm |
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SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1144
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Measure with a tape measure the inside edges of the tyre, from one tyre to another across the front two, first in front of the axle, then behind it, adjust the tracking to make them roughly the same, then at least you can take it to the alignment centre without scrubbing off all your tread.
regards
Steve
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27th Aug 2013 1:50 pm |
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MikeS2005
Member Since: 13 Sep 2008
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 920
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hi
have you been given the right track rod end as there are two types depending on year of manufacturer did you get a oe lr or a aftermarket one.
As in your picture the barrel is shorter than the original and I think they shiould be the same
cheers
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27th Aug 2013 3:29 pm |
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Advanced Factors
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 27 Nov 2012
Location: Southampton
Posts: 2648
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Mike
I thought that as well but the original thread that you are replying to is last year.
(All the same up to 2009) Paul Redding
+44 (0)23 8052 2774
Order Parts Online at www.advancedfactors.co.uk
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27th Aug 2013 3:40 pm |
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Beretta
Member Since: 11 Oct 2012
Location: Rochdale
Posts: 1180
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Well, after a (stressful) bank holiday weekend I have finally and successfully changed my lower arms.
I am no mechanic, and did this all at home on the drive, although I would recommend not doing this if you live a million miles away from a garage for the tracking to be sorted, and also I needed use of another car for the various trips for tools - but if i had made sure I had everything first it would have reduced this.
Big thumbs up to Steve for all the support throughout the work, and also Geoff for taking the time and effort to contact me and give support!
The final result, all the knocking has stopped
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28th Aug 2013 9:04 pm |
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H16UUP
Member Since: 01 Dec 2012
Location: Stockport
Posts: 271
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Well done
I've just done a 'mere' ball joint. Very satisfying to get the car on road again 'knock-free'.
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28th Aug 2013 9:25 pm |
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durkin
Member Since: 21 Oct 2013
Location: luton
Posts: 1
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Hi,
Followed your details and have now just completed the 2 front wish bones, track rod arms and hubs. Thanks to your write up it made it a lot easier and saved me hours, just need to get tracking done.
I have one problem, warning lights have now come on and the suspension has dropped. If you switch the jeep off and on again it is fine but comes on after driving for 2-3 minutes some times longer. Is this because the 4 wheels need realignment or am I in more trouble . I would appreciate any suggestions .
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21st Oct 2013 10:22 am |
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Woolmeister
Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3457
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durkin wrote:jeep
Bit late replying to this but I suspect you just need to get your tracking sorted out. You may get away with simple tracking wheel alignment but, ideally, you really want to get a four wheel alignment in tight tolerance mode.
Steve 2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
2019 Škoda Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi 190 DSG Sportline in Quartz Grey. Excellent vehicle. Gone.
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2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual in Zermatt Silver with Ebony Cloth (143k) Gone, but now patrolling the Asia section of the West Midlands Safari Park!
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10th Nov 2013 11:52 am |
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kilkenny
Member Since: 05 Nov 2013
Location: Northern California
Posts: 11
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First of all, thank you for this write up. Helping me quite a bit.
Second is a question about the axle and hub assembly. I removed it from wheel hub no problem. Trying to get it back in however is a puzzler. Can these axles 'slip out' of their mesh in the boot area? It feels like it is not pushed in all the way on the inner boot and therefore the axle is too long to get around and back in the wheel hub. Kinda stumped right now. Did I let the axle pull out too far from it's position? How do I get it back in?
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27th Nov 2013 11:11 pm |
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kilkenny
Member Since: 05 Nov 2013
Location: Northern California
Posts: 11
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No one? Well ok. I worked with it and it did end up falling too far out of its socket. Was a bitch to get it back in not knowing if it truly had fallen out. But I got it in and all is well. I'd modify the write up to warn people not to let that axle shaft just hang. I'm going to tie it up when I do the drivers side tomorrow.
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28th Nov 2013 8:02 pm |
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rdenyer
Member Since: 13 Nov 2010
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 11
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This is a great write up how to accomplish this task.
Just about to place an order for all the parts but I cant find the part number for the hub nut.
Can someone please provide ?
Thanks
Richard
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19th Dec 2013 10:58 am |
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rdenyer
Member Since: 13 Nov 2010
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 11
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I have a question about the axle and hub assembly. I removed one side with out any problems (RHS)
But now started on the LHS and it just wont budge.
Noticed on the RHS - every thing needed to be balance/held in just the right position and the axle slid through the hub reasonably easily.
On the LHS I have even tried tightening every thin back up - but it wont move and does not even sound like it wants to move.
Anyone got any suggestions ?
So finally got it all done
Ended up removing the disc rotor and was then able to fit a bearing puller over the hub and force the stub axle out.
Was surprised out how easy it ended up being given that it was not moving at all with a large hammer and center punch
D3 is now back on the road had it's wheel alignment done, and the camber was only a little out.
Everything is very quiet almost like new amazing how used you get to the clunk of goiing over speed humps.
Big thanks to KAV1187 for the original detailed post which was huge help in getting this done !
Regards
Richard
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3rd Jan 2014 9:02 am |
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