Apologies for not seeing all the responses - I sold my RRS last year so I don't get on here as much. Well done to those that have given it a go. Thank you all for your feedback regarding the write up
Just a couple of things to note...
* If your tracking is out after changing a track rod end (ball joint) then you just need to loosen the nut and turn the track rod until the wheels are straight enough to be able to drive to a tracking place. Remember to tighten the nut afterwards The pic below shows the spanner on the track rod ready for adjustment:
Click image to enlarge
* It is worth having an angle grinder (with metal cutting disc) or reciprocating saw handy in case your bolts have rusted inside the bushes and need cutting off.
MikeS2005 wrote:
hi
have you been given the right track rod end as there are two types depending on year of manufacturer did you get a oe lr or a aftermarket one.
As in your picture the barrel is shorter than the original and I think they shiould be the same
cheers
Hi - yes I was given the (OEM) track rod end for a Disco 3 whereas I had a Range Rover Sport. It just meant I had to take into account the difference in length when putting the Disco 3 one on. My tracking was pretty much spot on when I finished.
Best of luck chaps
29th Mar 2014 9:38 pm
scubasteve
Member Since: 30 Sep 2011
Location: dublin
Posts: 15
wish me luck,
I'll be doing the job over the weekend since i failed my MOT.
I'll report back on Monday, Hopefully as a conqueror.
5th Nov 2014 5:12 pm
scubasteve
Member Since: 30 Sep 2011
Location: dublin
Posts: 15
well, job done.
I was lucky, only one of the mounting bolts was rusted in place. Not bad considering the car has 300000KM and is on beaches/ sea water on a regular base.
A big thanks for the excellent tutorial, I couple of point to bear in mind if you're tackling the job :
-Get a quality, large ball joint splitter, mine have to small to fit and i had to use large chisels as wedges.
-the mounting bolts have graduations marks on them, make sure to mark a reference point on the chassis mounts as well as spray painting, you'll get a much closer tracking by the time you've finished.
-pop the drive shaft off from the hub. Makes for a much easier fitting of the bottom ball joint.
-get a helper, this is definitely not a solo job. The parts are heavy and everything has to be pulled and tugged and wiggled to get into place.
- a long pry-bar is helpful too.
once again thank you.
10th Nov 2014 1:38 pm
mx468
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Middletown, Rhode Island
Posts: 367
Narpy's Grill Mod, Suspension Rods, Ultra guage, wrangler Goodyear duratracs 265/60/18, new thermostat, diff oils changed, brake switch new, aluminum rack floor, LED driving lights in foglights, rear camera, just need gvif unit, next on list! New front arb bushings, new front valve block, 191,000 miles.
17th Dec 2014 6:47 am
scubasteve
Member Since: 30 Sep 2011
Location: dublin
Posts: 15
I can't tell you exactly, I'm in the office at the moment but if i did the job again, i would use something like this.
It takes a fair amount of beating before it actually separates
17th Dec 2014 11:10 am
jake0001
Member Since: 03 Jul 2014
Location: Home
Posts: 26
Mx468 you need only appropriate hammer.
17th Dec 2014 7:12 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Thats all I use at work on the trucks, normal 3lb hammer wont work? 7lb small sledge does the job.
The only time we use the large scissor splitters is when we cannot get a hammer into the joint
17th Dec 2014 7:17 pm
derryfrombury
Member Since: 01 Sep 2014
Location: Bury St Edmunds
Posts: 212
Lower Wishbone Change
Excellent thread, supported by some very clear photos. its posts like this which make the D3 forum what it is "the best on the web"Joined Aug 2014. Disco 3 SE 54plate, Buckingham Blue, Cream leather.
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17th Dec 2014 10:40 pm
pitcaig
Member Since: 14 Mar 2008
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 156
lynalldiscovery wrote:
Thats all I use at work on the trucks, normal 3lb hammer wont work? 7lb small sledge does the job.
The only time we use the large scissor splitters is when we cannot get a hammer into the joint
I did my front arms a couple of weeks ago and I also only used a hammer. I've never had to use a splitter in over 20 years of working on vehicles. A good hammer has alway done the job 😃
18th Dec 2014 12:36 am
mx468
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Middletown, Rhode Island
Posts: 367
This website has the best info out there for our trucks!!!!
Ok great thanks guys. Pitcaig when you changed your control arms, did you just use jack stands and if yes did you have enough room to use a hammer on the tie rods? Thanks.Narpy's Grill Mod, Suspension Rods, Ultra guage, wrangler Goodyear duratracs 265/60/18, new thermostat, diff oils changed, brake switch new, aluminum rack floor, LED driving lights in foglights, rear camera, just need gvif unit, next on list! New front arb bushings, new front valve block, 191,000 miles.
18th Dec 2014 5:16 am
scubasteve
Member Since: 30 Sep 2011
Location: dublin
Posts: 15
lynalldiscovery wrote:
Thats all I use at work on the trucks, normal 3lb hammer wont work? 7lb small sledge does the job.
The only time we use the large scissor splitters is when we cannot get a hammer into the joint
Having done the job, I don't this a hammer alone will do the job but i wasn't work from a lift.
From a jack stand, You would have about a foot space between ground and the hub carrier.
I ended up wedging 3 different chisels (as wedges) and hammering them alternatively.
but if a sledge hammer worked for you fair dues.
18th Dec 2014 11:11 am
mx468
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Middletown, Rhode Island
Posts: 367
Torque wrench or just air impact wrench
Hi I was wondering if I could just use my air impact wrench to tighten the control arms bolts. My torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft. lbs. and my air impact wrench is rated at 700 ft. lbs. I saw this video where the mechanic just tightens them up with the air impact wrench.
Narpy's Grill Mod, Suspension Rods, Ultra guage, wrangler Goodyear duratracs 265/60/18, new thermostat, diff oils changed, brake switch new, aluminum rack floor, LED driving lights in foglights, rear camera, just need gvif unit, next on list! New front arb bushings, new front valve block, 191,000 miles.
19th Dec 2014 3:01 am
mx468
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Middletown, Rhode Island
Posts: 367
Torque/bolt sheet
I'm a visual person so I made up this sheet with torque and bolt sizes. Hope this helps someone who changes out their control arms. This job is on my next to do list for the spring. I also made a pdf version if anyone wants me to email them one let me know.
Narpy's Grill Mod, Suspension Rods, Ultra guage, wrangler Goodyear duratracs 265/60/18, new thermostat, diff oils changed, brake switch new, aluminum rack floor, LED driving lights in foglights, rear camera, just need gvif unit, next on list! New front arb bushings, new front valve block, 191,000 miles.
19th Dec 2014 4:34 am
scubasteve
Member Since: 30 Sep 2011
Location: dublin
Posts: 15
Re: Torque wrench or just air impact wrench
mx468 wrote:
Hi I was wondering if I could just use my air impact wrench to tighten the control arms bolts. My torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft. lbs. and my air impact wrench is rated at 700 ft. lbs. I saw this video where the mechanic just tightens them up with the air impact wrench.
Just tighten those bolts as tight as you can i.e torque wrench + socket wrench.
these are going to have to be adjusted by a garage to get your tracking 100%.
Use the air impact on the hub centre nut and the suspension strut nut but don't over do it.
22nd Dec 2014 11:11 am
Stransky
Member Since: 27 Aug 2012
Location: Wolverhampton
Posts: 9
Tie rods
Think its worth mentioning as I do all these jobs, the tie rod ends are handed so buy a pair.
1 is 16mm into the rack the other is 20mm into the rack.
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