Member Since: 27 Jun 2011
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 22
Well today was the day that I decided to replace the front lower wishbones, track rods and track rod ends. After getting all the bits together, and reading through kav1187's excellent 'how to' I set to the task with the assistance of my youngest to fetch and carry and shove when required.
We did the nearside first and after about 5 hours, the new wishbone had been fitted. We then started the off side, and had this one completed in just over two hours!!!!
All of my bolts came undone freely and only the two rear bolts were heavily rusted.
So now just got to get the car in for a 4 wheel alignment to extinguish all the lights on the dash.
Thanks again to kav1187 for a very comprehensive 'how to guide'
Paul2005 D3 TDV6 S - EGR's blanked, RRS front lower wishbones, detangoed
2013 Swift Conqueror
Previous Landies:
2001 Disco 2 TD5 GS
1997 Disco V8 3.9
1990 Disco V8 3.5 with LPG conversion
1970 Series 2A SWB
1974 Series 3 LWB
24th Jun 2015 8:37 pm
treeiup
Member Since: 26 May 2015
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 74
Thanks kav1187, did mine today. Wasn't too much of a struggle although the rear bolts took some shifting.
I remembered I had a large hammer drill I picked up in aldi for about £30. I was going to drill some wine bottle size holes in to some wood a year or two ago and it was a godsend pushing the bolts through with the chisel attachment.
Booked for alignment on friday, it's not too bad surprisingly but the camber is definitely off drivers side.my06 D3
8th Jul 2015 9:01 pm
fino
Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Middlesex/ Surrey
Posts: 163
Had to cut both lower arms off when replacing, one on the rear and the other one was both front and back bolts. Went through 5 blades with the Bosch 18V reciprocating saw.
Copper greased those for next time.....
16th Jul 2015 10:51 pm
Nimrod
Member Since: 16 May 2012
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 71
An absolute crackin how to... I think I was lucky as my bolts flew out and I'd say I had the job done in 2-3 hrs both sides.. Replaced pads and now needs tracked, it lights up like a Xmas tree
So as I do, once the job is finished and I ask a dealer how much to do the job... I was quoted £1220. To do the above..
Parts Cost me £300.. I'm pretty pleased with my savings today...
23rd Dec 2015 11:48 pm
epninety
Member Since: 12 Oct 2012
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 327
Fitted a pair of AF arms last weekend using this guide. Would have been an easy days work if it hadn't been so bleedin' cold! So ended up being one short day and a morning.
I was lucky, only one bolt was siezed in the bush, and that gave in to the attentions of a lump hammer in the end, so didn't need the air saw.
I got the alignment wildly wrong and it drove like an absolute pig until I got the alignment done.
One thing maybe worthy of mention, a 24mm deep socket made things much easier.
23rd Jan 2016 7:28 pm
Disco Devil
Member Since: 12 Oct 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 51
Did my bushes this week, had both arms out in about 90 mins then pressed out the old bushes and ball joint and replaced with Lemforder items from Steve at AF. . . What a nice man.
Put the adjusters back exactly where they were and tracking/alignment are completely haywire. Car is actually undriveable.
Nearest hunter alignment can't get me in for over a week ..... Relegated to driving the van
It's not the nightmare of a job it's made out to be. If I'd bought AF's replacement arms I'm confident it could have been done in under 4 hrs start to finish.
I will say unless you have access to a decent size press and cups/dies then don't do what I did! Go with AF's replacement arms
If I ever do this job again I'll be buying complete arms just for the ease of doing it. Plus the welding on theirs is prob much better than the drunk monkey welding on the original LR items!
8th May 2016 12:42 am
trainmanone
Member Since: 19 Dec 2014
Location: stockport
Posts: 366
with regards to wheel geometry set up try kwic fit ,I know wouldn't let them change a pram tyre,but most of them have the hunter system now and are trained by hunter had mine done last sept for £45
not a problem all driving straight and even ware .
that was at the stockport branch on heaton lane
8th May 2016 7:03 am
Kimi
Member Since: 26 Mar 2013
Location: Home
Posts: 62
I was working on this today on my MY12 D4. After some fighting I was able to get the bolts off from RH side. Then moving to LH side I realized that there is a cat converter right behind the rear bolt. There's no more than an inch clearance between bolt end and cat converter. I don't seem to be able to fit any socket+wrench combination to work on the nut. Due long bolt end I would need to use long socket but then I run out of room to use any wrench. I could cut the old bolt to remove it, but then I don't see a way to use any wrench to tighten the nut when installing.
Hasn't this been an issue to anyone else? I may see similar situation in original instructions Step 16 / Rear, but not sure about clearances there.
1st Jul 2017 5:23 pm
Jaggz
Member Since: 13 Jan 2016
Location: U.K.
Posts: 125
Was thinking of taking advantage of Advance factors 10percent discount and ordering arms for mine, no specific symptoms at the moment but it's 83k on originals is it worth doing all 4 arms or do some of them seem to last indefinitely, I know front lowers seem to go more often.
Not convinced I want to do it myself do any of site sponsors cover Leeds ?
1st Jul 2017 8:55 pm
Caravanchris2
Member Since: 28 Nov 2016
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 5
Excellent
Excellent info now I know how to tackle my disco 4 with clunking lower arms upon hard braking
Thanks for making this so clear
25th Sep 2017 9:49 pm
mek
Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468
My car is now in for the wheel alignment after I changed the lower arms at a couple of days ago.
One thing that I found impossible to do - and if there is a solution this may benefit the next person - is there a way to torque the rear bolt on the LHS to 275NM?
On my car the nut which could be tightened (without eccentric effects) conflicted with what I think must be the catalytic converter. Plus there's a bracket in the way for the transfer box under tray!
I found that I could get a deep socket on it (just) but could not get a ratchet end or torque wrench end on it because of the shoulder around the ratchet. I tried using a universal joint with the torque wrench (a first) but that doesn't work! It didn't for me anyway.
Is there a nice solution or is it a case of tighten using best efforts and tell the garage doing the wheel alignment that this needs torquing up (which is what I have done)? On reflection maybe you just need a 24mm socket whose depth is in between the large (deep) and small (shallow) 24mm half inch sockets in my Jumbo Halfords Aadvanced socket set?
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for next time.....
