I know others have had "fun" changing the arms but today was a total PITA
Could NOT shift the bolt holding the rear bush … 4 foot trolley jack bar on 3 foot long 1/2" drive bar and it still wouldn't shift. Ended up taking the angle grinder to the arm itself to get enough space to get a reciprocating saw onto the bolt … ran out of blades with any teeth left about 1/2 way through so had to send the youngest off to Screwfix for some more.
Managed to snap the back end of the bolt whilst he was away then used the new blades and the angle grinder to get through the bolt at the other end. And it only took about 2 1/2 hours
pix as promised …
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
So that's one side done now. Wonder how much fun we'll have tomorrow ?.
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
Last edited by Hardware on 28th Nov 2018 11:25 pm. Edited 1 time in total
28th Nov 2018 11:18 pm
johnlad
Member Since: 02 Dec 2016
Location: blackpool
Posts: 406
You won’t want to hear this but I changed both lower front arms Monday morning, all just unbolted, fitted new drop links to the roll bar as well , all finished in 3 hours lol,
Even got into kwik fit for alignment that afternoon 😂
I WAS booked in at the alignment place for this afternoon.
And based on the clunking, this (nearside) was the least goosed bush … but it was ridiculously soft/floppy (how DO you describe a knackered bush ? ).
Hopefully the other side won't be as bad. And if it is ? we have another 4 blades for the saw after the one in it.
At least it got me out of work on the downstairs loo project for the afternoon.
28th Nov 2018 11:30 pm
BAZ8046
Member Since: 26 Feb 2010
Location: Chatham
Posts: 278
They definitely aren’t much fun if they are seized in.
I have had some joy using an air hammer to drive the bolts out.
If you can get them to move they normally come out eventually.
I always use plenty of copper grease when they go back in so at least they will come out next time.
Good luck with the other side D4 2016 Landmark, Waitomo Grey.
D3 2005 HSE, Bonatti Grey, now sold but still comes back for servicing.
Defender 2002 Td5 Commercial, had a hard life but slowly being restored.
I only work so I can afford to repair my Land Rovers!
28th Nov 2018 11:31 pm
johnlad
Member Since: 02 Dec 2016
Location: blackpool
Posts: 406
Previous owner of mine had the bolts copper greased, it certainly made a difference when taking apart
There's limited access at rear of the nearside arm due to exhaust section..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
offside now done … Sooooooooooooooo much easier with decent access to nut on rear of rear bush.
Sadly, missed the slot for the 4-wheel alignment so that will have to be tomorrow now.
29th Nov 2018 1:12 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4399
Good work, it'll be so much easier next time you have to replace the arms! Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
29th Nov 2018 2:20 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
johnlad wrote:
You won’t want to hear this but I changed both lower front arms Monday morning, all just unbolted, fitted new drop links to the roll bar as well , all finished in 3 hours lol,
Even got into kwik fit for alignment that afternoon 😂
Dont forget the front will most likely have been done at least once in the cars life, whilst the rears will only really get done once in the cars life.
29th Nov 2018 2:48 pm
Browny90
Member Since: 19 Jul 2016
Location: Ashbourne
Posts: 687
N/S will always be worse due to collecting all the s t from the gutter when driving..Disco4 MY16 SDV6 Landmark Black
Disco4 MY12 SDV6 XS Orkney Grey (Gone)
Defender 90 200tdi Completely rebuilt.
29th Nov 2018 3:36 pm
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1419
J@mes wrote:
I wonder if a rotary-stop SDS drill would have the same effect as an air chisel/hammer?
Probably doing this one myself in a few weeks.
Yes it does exactly that, used it on other vehicles. Depends on the space available. I have a heavy duty Makita and it packs a punch.
29th Nov 2018 3:41 pm
Jubbly
Member Since: 20 Nov 2016
Location: Stourbridge
Posts: 401
Glad you enjoyed it though Jaguar I-Pace HSE imminent.
Gone HSE with Flappy Paddles. IID BT tool. RLD Spare Protector, Altox GPS.
when adjusting camber, front offside "adjuster" didn't do any adjusting when turned. had a look and the bolt was turning but not the washer with the lugs that should keep it and bolt fixed together rotation-wise.
whipped it apart and found it had cut straight through the lugs. bolt wasn't over-tightened so this shouldn't have happened. (pic to follow - trouble uploading !!)
took car away and put the old washer on AND changed the bolt direction though the mounting bracket so it would be the welded end doing the adjustment … theory being weld was stronger than lugs.
I also did the same on the other side … just in case same issue arose.
when I looked at this washer, although it hadn't failed (hadn't been adjusted yet though ) the lugs don't appear to be the best.
Back to 4-wheel alignment garage and … whilst nearside (and both the rear ends) adjusted as expected, the offside front broke the weld
we had to do the adjustment by jacking up the car and moving the end of the arm in the bracket with a lever. it moved easily, so i don't think it's an issue of the end of the arm sticking in the bracket. and the slide/rotate plate for the wheel moved very easily, so i don't see that was a problem either.
I now need to decide if get a replacement bolt and washer or just a beefed up washer then swap bolt direction again. I've managed to rescue the original bolt from the scrap bin too.
I could also go the route of getting a whole new bolt kit … not sure if that might be easier/quicker but if it's of same standard, will it just fail too ?
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t from the gutter when driving..
