Member Since: 24 Jun 2012
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 686
Front suspension valve block.
Where am I going wrong please.
My car sags badly overnight.
My front air bags were shot so shiny replacements were fitted. Next the compressor gave up the ghost. I’ve just fitted a shiny new genuine AMK compressor.
In an effort to fix the sagging at the same time I’ve fitted a new valve block up front.
My scenario now, with the old valve block in place the suspension faults and lifts the car into standard height if but a little slowly. The car will then drop down at the front after an hour or so.
With the new valve block fitted the suspension faults and the rear only rises to standard height. The fro t won’t budge. I can rule out a faulty valve block as I’ve bought a second new one with the same results.
If I refit the old valve block I’m back to sagging after an hour.
I’m really really beginning to hate the car. It’s been a continuous fault chance for 12 years.
Any help what to try next would be appreciated, I can’t understand why the new valve blocks seem locked out.Narpy Grill, tinted windows, Smooth leather wheel (TLO Group buy), ACM fitted (thanks TLO), Rear door loom and Row 2 & 3 audio switch upgrade, RRS 20" wheel change, 285 Cooper LTZ's Sat Nav Mod (until I get a Faultmate upgrade), Front & Rear lamp guards. 4x4 screen now switched on - Woody32, Follow me home reverse lights - woody32, Auto release EPB - Woody32. Off Road Navigation - Woody32. Remap + EGR's switched off. Full chassis clean and Waxoyl.
6th Apr 2023 2:16 pm
Bardley
Member Since: 02 May 2018
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 441
Have you plugged the system In and read faults?
You mention valve blocks, so assume you know your way around the setup on your car?
If you have read faults (?) Do Heights sensors feature?2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.
6th Apr 2023 5:12 pm
Simonstarski
Member Since: 24 Jun 2012
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 686
All the height sensors are reading well on the info screen. I don’t have a fault reader to go any further on them.
I know the tracking is a bit out, it’s slipped a couple of times since a garage failed to tighten the locking nuts but I can’t think that would throw up a fault when the cars stationary
I had eyes on a new discovery a few weeks ago but I’m so fed up with the constant faults and endless repairs I’m thinking I’d like a 911 or a MFB instead. I don’t think they’ve made a good Land Rover since the discovery 2Narpy Grill, tinted windows, Smooth leather wheel (TLO Group buy), ACM fitted (thanks TLO), Rear door loom and Row 2 & 3 audio switch upgrade, RRS 20" wheel change, 285 Cooper LTZ's Sat Nav Mod (until I get a Faultmate upgrade), Front & Rear lamp guards. 4x4 screen now switched on - Woody32, Follow me home reverse lights - woody32, Auto release EPB - Woody32. Off Road Navigation - Woody32. Remap + EGR's switched off. Full chassis clean and Waxoyl.
6th Apr 2023 8:04 pm
Bardley
Member Since: 02 May 2018
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 441
Info screen meaning dash? This is not an accurate way to diagnose your issue chap.
It really needs a proper diagnostic tool. The usual and very handy GAP BT would help.no end.
Steering Angle sensors and anything else that you don't know yet can all give you issues and have knock on effects.
It may not even be your valve blocks
Best get it plugged in is my best advice here: anything else is really just a shot in the dark with the associated wallet hit when you try to just change out components.2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.
6th Apr 2023 9:39 pm
mandd
Member Since: 03 Mar 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 13
Re: Front suspension valve block.
Did you fit a genuine Land Rover front valve block?
Ensure the lines at the front block are fitted to the correct position, it is easy to mix them up.
***
Bottom green =Left front air spring
Lower left Black with white stripe =Air Inlet
Upper left black =Right air spring
***
Was an AMK compressor originally fitted? if not then the compressor type must be changed via software in the RLM, if left alone there will always be lifting and exhaust faults.
If the front valve block was purchased from an aftermarket supplier it is likely they sold you a rear valve block, even though they look identical I can assure you that they are not the same. The end result is slow lifting in the front and faults in the Ride Level Module.
Ensure the following, front bags are not leaking, air reservoir not leaking, air line to front valve block not leaking, intake line to air compressor not leaking or kinked or possible desiccant break down clogging middle valve block.
Get the faults checked has this will provide the correct guidance to locate the fault.
Simonstarski wrote:
Where am I going wrong please.
My car sags badly overnight.
My front air bags were shot so shiny replacements were fitted. Next the compressor gave up the ghost. I’ve just fitted a shiny new genuine AMK compressor.
In an effort to fix the sagging at the same time I’ve fitted a new valve block up front.
My scenario now, with the old valve block in place the suspension faults and lifts the car into standard height if but a little slowly. The car will then drop down at the front after an hour or so.
With the new valve block fitted the suspension faults and the rear only rises to standard height. The fro t won’t budge. I can rule out a faulty valve block as I’ve bought a second new one with the same results.
If I refit the old valve block I’m back to sagging after an hour.
I’m really really beginning to hate the car. It’s been a continuous fault chance for 12 years.
Any help what to try next would be appreciated, I can’t understand why the new valve blocks seem locked out.
7th Apr 2023 1:34 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1783
Just a thought, front and rear valve blocks look similar but are different. Make sure you are fitting the right item.
9th Apr 2023 11:22 am
bensla
Member Since: 02 May 2023
Location: Trowbridge
Posts: 139
Re: Front suspension valve block.
mandd wrote:
Ensure the following, front bags are not leaking, air reservoir not leaking, air line to front valve block not leaking, intake line to air compressor not leaking or kinked or possible desiccant break down clogging middle valve block.
Get the faults checked has this will provide the correct guidance to locate the fault.
What is the diagnosis process for these items? I don’t have a warning lights but it does drop at the front overnight. Is it worth looking for codes if there are no warning lights?
Is it just a case of spraying everything with soapy water to spot bubbles?
1st Jul 2023 3:15 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1783
Yes the soapy water is the cheapest approach to fault finding this air system. Check that the pipes are connected correctly as it is not unknown for people to connect them incorrectly
2nd Jul 2023 12:45 am
Shamrock
Member Since: 16 Jun 2022
Location: South Kerry
Posts: 113
Mind that most of cheap Chinese valve blocks (on eBay or amazon) are also often leaking on the separation plan...
2nd Jul 2023 9:41 am
Shamrock
Member Since: 16 Jun 2022
Location: South Kerry
Posts: 113
By the way, I have a question about valves blocks...
I know that front is RVH000095 and rear is RVH000055 and that they look identically from the outside but don't works the same (https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr3-28/valve-blocks-110945/).
The problem is I've bought on amazon a rear one some times ago and recently a front one. I've just received the front one and it's exactly the same part as the rear ! Same reference on the box (X001KVJB2T) and on the valve block (PA66GF30%). Is there a way to know which one is front or rear and which one is the wrong part ? The seller don't reply and just says to ask amazon. I have to pay for the return, so I think I'll must buy new ones from an honest seller...
Thanks
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