Member Since: 16 Jan 2009
Location: Capital!
Posts: 89
Fuse 26 Revisited
I appreciate there are tons of threads concerning EAS and valve blocks etc., but I am a bit confused so a quick advice is sought...
[b]Symptoms[/b]
After washing the car, I left the car on a normal height overnight; the following morning the suspension was at the lowest possible level (Front c.42 cm Rear c.37cm). Concerned by this, I started the engine to reflate the suspension, it got back to the normal level in under 1 minute (Front c.50 cm Rear c.50cm). I left it overnight and again the following morning the car was back at the lowest possible level.
Before reflating the suspension again, I measured the gallery pressure using IID which stood at 135 kPa. I then restarted the engine, got it back to normal height, measured the gallery pressure (it stabilised at 1,750 kPa) and then took out Fuse 26 after cutting the engine. After 24 hours, I noticed minimal change (Front c. 48cm, Rear c.50cm).
From other threads I read that removing Fuse 26 stops the EAS (Electronic Air Suspension) self levelling / dropping.
[b]Question[/b]
Vaguely remembering that a common issue with D3s (original Hitachi pumps) is the compressor filter piston seal or drier beads deteriorates after a while, I looked at replacement kits. X8r offered some useful kits (see https://x8r.co.uk/products/land-rover/air-...t-hitachi) but under the FAQ, it had the following:
"FAQ:
Q: My car sinks on its airbags over night but pumps up OK, is this a compressor issue?
A: It is unlikely, this would more likely indicate a leak in the EAS system."
This FAQ exactly mirrors my problem, and yet the answer states that my problem is unlikely the compressor but a leak in the EAS system. From the way my D3 is holding its height after the removal of Fuse 26, I thought I ruled out the possibility of a leak within the EAS system.
I am not mechanically minded, and I am confused by all the info. I also note that no error message appears on the LCD screen, and when I did "Show Faults" in IID, none that are relevant to suspension showed up. Could someone advise me please?
9th Mar 2019 8:36 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Hi
It sounds like u have a leak in ur air tank, as when u pull fuse F26 is stops the system from self levellling by not allowing any of the valve blocks from opening
The normal operation of the self levelling system will activate after 2 x hours from locking the vehicle then every 6 x hours thereafter
Air tanks normally leak on top along the seam where u can see it
If u remove the pipe from the reservoir valve block that goes to the air tank u can then use a pressure gauge , isolating valve and pump just the air tank up to see if it leaks, easier then testing it in situ and proving if the tank is sound
Plastic pipe is 6mm that goes to the air tank
Hope that helps
Ps, have enclosed a drawing of where the pipes are and which one is the air tank, middle drawing
Last edited by gstuart on 9th Mar 2019 9:16 pm. Edited 1 time in total
9th Mar 2019 8:57 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
This is what I made up in order I could test the system, I just remove the round blue valve and connect onto the airtank pipe by using a 6mm pushfit coupling
9th Mar 2019 9:08 pm
ostland
Member Since: 16 Jan 2009
Location: Capital!
Posts: 89
Many thanks for your advice gstuart. As I don't have such an equipment I will have to take it to a garage - is it strange that no error code is appearing in my IID? It could be that I am not using it properly.
Would it be safe for Fuse 26 to be left out when driving my car for about 50 miles to get to my usual garage, or would driving that far likely to result in creating further problems / damages to the car? If so I think I can try one some 5 miles away, though not sure how good they are...
9th Mar 2019 9:43 pm
Mogwyth
Member Since: 03 Oct 2014
Location: Pwllheli
Posts: 3976
Quite safe to drive with the fuse out it wont cause any problems except maybe throw a fault code and warning light.==================================
05 D3 HSE V8 4.4
04 MG TF 135
03 MG TF 115 Cool Blue Edition
02 MG TF 160
00 Hymer B564 Lionheart
1971 Series III 109
9th Mar 2019 9:59 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Hi
Ur welcome , u can easily use a foot pump and then put the air tank in water to see if it bubbles along the seam , just to save u having to drive
Yes ok to drive If the suspension is in normal height and fuse 26 pulled , trouble is as it’s 50 x miles you’ve got the trip home as well and the what IF scenario and leaving u in trouble
Also if i may say make sure before u do anything to bubble test the end cap and pipes of the air compressor , the dryer caps can get a hairline crack between the pipes
Last edited by gstuart on 9th Mar 2019 10:05 pm. Edited 1 time in total
9th Mar 2019 10:03 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Mogwyth wrote:
Quite safe to drive with the fuse out it wont cause any problems except maybe throw a fault code and warning light.
Hi
Always nice having an experienced member confirming that
Also wondering about the hairline crack that can sometimes happen on the dryer end cap , which I assume would also cause the suspension to drop even if the fuse has been pulled
9th Mar 2019 10:04 pm
ostland
Member Since: 16 Jan 2009
Location: Capital!
Posts: 89
Thanks Mogwyth - I would not want to weaponise my D3 so it is good to know that Fuse 26 could be left out until I reach my usual garage. It is mostly motorway mileage anyway.
gstuart - I just printed out the Tech training (G538471) Lesson 2 on suspension components, and was referencing your diagram. Am a bit confused as you mention air tanks (which I take it is what LR calls air reservoir) and your diagram refers to reservoir valve block (RH000046). I presume your advice on end cap and pipes of the air compressor is about the area around the air supply unit and the reservoir valve block, not the actual air reservoir so looking at possibly changing the dryer caps such as the one like this (https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/adv0037-replacement-dryer-end-cap-for-hitachi-compressors---discovery-3--4-range-rover-sport-range-rover-l322-05-09-583645-p.asp)?
9th Mar 2019 10:22 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Hi
Indeed my apologises ref the terminology of confusing matters, should have called it air reservoir
Will have a look at the kit but indeed the reservoir valve block and compressor are under the same cover, air reservoir separate
Can easily make up some soapy water with washing up liquid to check the dryer cap
There is also a complete kit that includes the filters and dissicant
Hope that helps and apologises once again for the confusion
9th Mar 2019 10:42 pm
ostland
Member Since: 16 Jan 2009
Location: Capital!
Posts: 89
No worries for the terminologies, very grateful for your advice. I was just confused by the LR illustrations as to how far down the tube i need to bubble test. I will decide on whether to try the nearby garage depending on how I get on with this! I recall the desiccant was last changed some 6-7 years ago so perhaps it's time to change these anyway.
9th Mar 2019 10:54 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Cheers , my bad slang
Indeed there has been reports of the dryer cap getting a hairline crank between the pipes , so bubble test there and around the air compressor , for good measure bubble test the reservoir valve block too , so u know 100% it’s all sound and not leaking
Good call as it wouldn’t hurt replacing the desiccant at the same time
The air reservoir u can’t bubble test because the seam is at the top , think a new one is around £100
I had to virtually rebuild my air suspension when I bought my D3 , was in a terrible mess, had to replace parts then retest , as I went threw it step by step
U might be lucky and it’s just the dryer cap but won’t know until tested and taken out of the equation
Ps, not wishing to tell u how to suck eggs or be rude , when u remove the compressors cover and bubble test please please DONT get underneath as they can and do drop without warning , as u have the engine running and suspension in the off road height , axle stands are always a must
9th Mar 2019 11:17 pm
ostland
Member Since: 16 Jan 2009
Location: Capital!
Posts: 89
Thank you for this additional advice - whilst I have given up trying to get underneath the car to do the bubble test in this wet weather, I read elsewhere in this forum that the car needs to rest on a stand when doing this. For those who gets to read this thread in the future yours is a very helpful advice.
This morning I checked the height (no change from yesterday) and then started my car without the Fuse 26; immediately, IID showed an error code "C1A30-64(AF) Both switches pressed at the same time - Algorithm based on failure - signal plausibility failure" as well as dash LCD confirming that special program off.
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