Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Bushwanderer wrote:
Hi Robbie,
Is the bonding due to years installed or more importantly hours of engine running (approximated by miles traveled)?
Combination of things really. The plugs are plated to reduce bonding effects to a degree, but suffer from tip swelling and, if the plug is not working, a wedge of carbon builds up between the swollen tip and the cylinder. Pulling this lot through the glow plug bore is nearly impossible.
Beyond normal failures the plugs can be ruined by poorly injectors or failing engine sensors. The increased fuelling required to compensate for failing glow plugs can also damage the glow plug tips, which is a bit of a sad irony.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
Thanks Robbie. The Bearded Dragon
8th Jan 2017 11:36 pm
UtilityGuy
Member Since: 26 Mar 2016
Location: Northampton
Posts: 343
Hi Guys,
Talk about putting the cat among the pigeons, , In the very cold weather, it takes a few more turns to fire up, I do have a fair bit of experience of pulling glow plugs out, without having any snap on me, There is a way to increase your chances of pulling a plug out without snapping it, like letting WD40 soak on in there over night and then let the motor warm right up before you even try and turn it, the reason why they get stuck in there otherwise is the fact that nobody has inspected them over the years,
But anyway, I will leave this one here for the doom and gloomers chew on a bit more whilst i pop to the fridge for a cold can of wife beater !
9th Jan 2017 2:32 am
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
Have you attempted the removal yet ?? How did you get on.
Interested as I'm thinking quite seriously about doing mine.
Steve
14th Jan 2017 4:21 pm
Felstmiester
Member Since: 12 Dec 2016
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 211
UtilityGuy wrote:
Hi Guys,
Talk about putting the cat among the pigeons, , In the very cold weather, it takes a few more turns to fire up, I do have a fair bit of experience of pulling glow plugs out, without having any snap on me, There is a way to increase your chances of pulling a plug out without snapping it, like letting WD40 soak on in there over night and then let the motor warm right up before you even try and turn it, the reason why they get stuck in there otherwise is the fact that nobody has inspected them over the years,
But anyway, I will leave this one here for the doom and gloomers chew on a bit more whilst i pop to the fridge for a cold can of wife beater !
this is a glass half full answer. I like the positivity and I hope for the op you are right. Problem lies with the size of the glow plugs. Someone mentions in a previous post that spark plugs can be the same. I disagree. A spark plug is triple the thread diameter than most glow plugs, therefore can withstand a fair amount of force needed to crack undone even if they're a bit stubborn. Not saying spark plugs have never been snapped off but if they do you're pretty unlucky.
Just looking at how fragile a glow plug looks compared to an average spark plug or even an injector come to that would steer me into not attempting the job and ordering a fbh remote to get you through the winter months.
My father has been in the motor trade for well over 40 years and wd40 is your friend. But I've witnessed many times even it can't wave its magic wand when you've got a corroded injector or glow plug.
14th Jan 2017 6:31 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8072
This subject has got me thinking, in retrospect what is a "safe" max torque to put on a heater plug when removing? - or isn't there a max limit that is safe?It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
14th Jan 2017 6:40 pm
Felstmiester
Member Since: 12 Dec 2016
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 211
Would've that that depends on how old glow plug is. How hot it's got etc.
14th Jan 2017 6:42 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
There is a published max safe removal torque figure - I included it in my guide to glow plugs.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 28 Mar 2016
Location: Redditch
Posts: 72
This might help loosing torque is top left.
15th Jan 2017 12:11 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
I have put as much as 40Nm through them, and they didn't budge
If they are seized, your going to have a bad time...
Not as bad as the chap who dropped his D3 off this week, after the tip of the plug falling into the cylinder during swapping them over My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
This is interesting. If you can believe it.
If you compare Beru and NGK
NGK appeared to heat up quicker.
Beru got hotter.
21st Jan 2017 11:44 am
Sandor
Member Since: 28 Dec 2014
Location: Csikszereda
Posts: 53
Finally what type of glow plugs do you prefer?EGR blanked.
Silicone hose done!
FBH controller: TC3
IID Tool BT
5th Oct 2017 5:55 am
dgardel
Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: Greater Venice
Posts: 2025
When the car is new or within the first year of life, we should immediately remove the glow plugs, and re-install them with a bit of copper grase or "antiseize paste".
So after a few years it could remove much more easily
Member Since: 10 Feb 2009
Location: Jersey
Posts: 351
dgardel
I agree in the principle, but I wouldn't use copper grease as they are in an aluminum head and steel heater plug is all a recipe for disaster.
I used an aluminum based grease, less chance of problems.
5th Oct 2017 11:34 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
The problem isn't really the thread, but the massive long probe in a confined space, with carbon deposits around it and not perfectly straight.
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