Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
poprivit wrote:
gstuart wrote:
Pete K wrote:
On my house I just have an MK outside socket, and a 13A switched spur inside (good to isolate if water gets in or stopping neighbors using your leccy)
The white fuse adaptor is belt a braces should a fault happen while you are testing, which is unlikely.
It sounds to me as if you haven't set your volt meter to a low enough range. 200mV I think is required.
They can't all be reading zero.
Test/practice on the 20A suspension one.
thought that about putting a socket outside , just thought it easier i can then hide the ctek in doors , ie if i go out with the dogs
didn’t realise at first the ctek short lead i’ve connected to the battery has small lights on it
the zero readings are when i set the meter to ac, for the alternator test
i will recheck the meter ref it’s settings, i did use my other multimeter to double check every small fuses and after the time out everyone showed zero , just in case i need to double check them to ensure they making contact with the meter probes 100% on the small fuses
these are the meters i’m using
Not sure if this will help, but i posted a short run through on what i did to help find my drain.
I found reading via the main earth cable was more consistent. Also didn't see in this post if you had closed out the bonnet open switch. If you close the bonnet catches with a screw driver it will allow the ECU's to go into sleep mode after around 2 min once you lock the car. You can then see what the drain is and i closed the door catch to allow access to the passenger footwell and fuse box. Defiantly worth removing the Fuse links first if you still have a drain above .5a
Hi
many thks, need all the help i can get and will look for ur thread ,
indeed, i did link the bonnet catch out and waited over 30 x mins after setting the alarm
i have now replaced the faulty split charge solonoid so is now working
however i must recheck the landy to ensure if there is still a drain , i did disconnect the split charge system when i done the test and will do the same , in order there’s no interference
have mainly been using the clamp meter , also set my meter on AC and put it across pos and earth with the engine running , to see if there was any diode feedback and meter was zero
will have a read of ur post and then when the weather is abit better get back rechecking for any drainage
thks so much once again
2nd Feb 2018 6:06 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
Hi
Now I’ve got all my other work done and motd wish to now revisit this , to track down this residual battery drain
Going to move onto the large fuses that have the plastic covers on them
Am wondering if i may ask a favour please , would anyone be so kind with an HSE take the same picture of there fusebox as a comparison please
Mines a base model so wondering of going through every fuse and relay to ensure there 100% necessary
Thks again
19th Aug 2018 10:34 am
Batfink
Member Since: 31 May 2017
Location: Isle of Sheppey
Posts: 1510
Here you go. 2006 TdV6 HSE.
19th Aug 2018 11:50 am
Batfink
Member Since: 31 May 2017
Location: Isle of Sheppey
Posts: 1510
I've sent it to you via email aswell if you need to zoom in on anything.2006 TdV6 HSE.
19th Aug 2018 11:52 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
Batfink wrote:
Here you go.
Hi
Bless u for doing that , thank u so much
Email hasn’t come through yet and indeed that will be very helpful being able to zoom in and comparing them side by side
Determined to resolve this and will make sure I update this thread as and when I find the culprit
Thks again
19th Aug 2018 1:03 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
Batfink wrote:
I've sent it to you via email aswell if you need to zoom in on anything.
Hi
Just been comparing them and see I’ve got fuse F5 where u haven’t ??
Also see , both fuses are fitted for heated seats on mine , i did retrofit electric seats but not heated , fuses F7/F8 , so will pull them for starters to see if it makes any difference
just looked ref fuse F5 , it’s for petrol EMS ??? , so think I will take that out, is missing on urs
Also got both fuses fitted for a front heated screen, I haven’t got one
Thks again
My fuse box
Yours
19th Aug 2018 1:23 pm
Batfink
Member Since: 31 May 2017
Location: Isle of Sheppey
Posts: 1510
The pic may take a while to come through by email as is 7.7mb.2006 TdV6 HSE.
19th Aug 2018 1:40 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
Hi
Bless u for that and am so grateful u taking the time , thank u
Looking at ur pic here it’s shown up fuses that were staring me in the face that don’t need to be there in mine
Have fuses fitted in the following , but haven’t got them as options fitted , so will pull them out and see what happens ,
F5 petrol EMS
F7 front seat HEVAC
F8 Rear heated seats
F15 Front heated screen
F18 Front heated screen
F22 Rear blower
As the looms are live from the fuse box to the empty connectors where there’s suppose so be something fitted I wonder if the loom can take the parasitic drain of 40Mv ??????
More than likely am just clutching at straws but certainly can’t hurt pulling the fuses that arnt needed , I hope
Plus wonder how I can test the fuses inside the cabin, as the vehicle needs to be locked , unless I flick the passenger side door catch closed with just that door open and press the alarm remote twice to disable the interior alarm
Thks again
Last edited by gstuart on 19th Aug 2018 3:04 pm. Edited 1 time in total
19th Aug 2018 1:59 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 11 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6575
40 MV is quite a lot out of a car without a flux capacitor installed...
19th Aug 2018 2:06 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
Here’s one I ordered earlier just for that very situation
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum