Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Pete K wrote:
Instruments, Speed/revcounter etc unit.
Looking at diagrams fuse 39 behind glovebox or fuse 17 under bonnet do IP
Monitor one of them for volt drop or current draw
Just thought , I’ve checked all the small fuses under the bonnet including the F17 , all ok on that bit , but won’t hurt to recheck them
Will move onto the larger J fuses next , then cabin if nothing is found on the J fuses
Plus have never done a hard reset, don’t know if that can ever help with parasitic drain ????
Thks again
19th Aug 2018 6:03 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
17 should be a big one. 50A
19th Aug 2018 6:42 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Hi Pete
Many thks and found the one u mean, haven’t checked any of those larger fuses
Will just take the plastic covers off so I can use a multimeter on them, did buy some smaller test probes
Before I test the larger FL fuses Going to pull these smaller mini fuses first
F5 petrol EMS
F7 front seat HEVAC
F8 Rear heated seats
F15 Front heated screen
F18 Front heated screen
F22 Rear blower
19th Aug 2018 7:24 pm
Batfink
Member Since: 31 May 2017
Location: Isle of Sheppey
Posts: 1510
Might be a bit random but have you checked the glovebox light is going off? If the arm thats turns it off is snapped or it has been pushed back in the housing it would be staying on but with the lid shut you would not see it.2006 TdV6 HSE.
19th Aug 2018 7:57 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Hi Batfink
Many thks ref the glovebox light and Indeed checked it out
Am still wondering how everyone gets on being able to check the cabin fuses, as in being able to put the landy to sleep and still having access
Thks again
19th Aug 2018 10:15 pm
Batfink
Member Since: 31 May 2017
Location: Isle of Sheppey
Posts: 1510
How about connecting up your meter to the one your want to watch and put the meter on top of the glove box then lock and watch from outside?2006 TdV6 HSE.
19th Aug 2018 10:51 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
That’s a good thought , thks
I’m wondering if I drop the catch in the passenger door, leaving it open, then pressing the remote twice so it locks without putting the cabin alarm sensors on , if that will allow me to test the cabin fuses
Then waiting the 20-30 x mins before the system enters sleep mode
Will also check if any fuses have been fitted to the cabin that I may not need
Thks again
19th Aug 2018 11:46 pm
BrettKaz
Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: Canberra
Posts: 209
Gary, I have been doing the same procedures as you but I keep getting different reading from my Uni-t (same as yours). It seems to wander all over the place so that my Q.Draw is somewhere between 0 and 50mA even after I zero it a few times. Is yours stable?
Here are a couple of things I did..
Flipped the BJB cable around so it points up for better access.. you can close the bonnet ...just have to pull the cable forward at the top of it's arc (bungee) to avoid it being squashed when you close the bonnet.
To keep the door open I flipped the lock with my finger and then keyfob locked it. I still haven't been able to work on the CJB as the alarm goes off. You might try to block it off with something (cardboard) if needed..
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Hi Brett
Many thks as that’s very helpful , I fitted my own rechargeable batteries when I got my meter and so far so good with it being stable , wonder why urs is wandering like that
Good idea with the cable, so far I linked the bonnet switch out , alarmed it with the bonnet up, waited 30 x mins then tested the small F fuses and got no volts on them with my other multimeter , whilst leaving clamp meter on which reads the 40 Mv
Ref that door lock I wonder why the alarm goes off then, know if u press the alarm button twice it’s suppose to turn off the interior alarm sensors , wonder if that would work or as u say have to do something else
Also pressing the front light switch to disable the interior lights
Wonder if it work in finding the door fuse loom and pull that fuse ???
If I find something that works will of course let u know
Think my next port of call will be to pull the fuses that I don’t need where I don’t have some options fitted and then go from there
Have the T max dual battery set up which I will disconnect again , but have to recharge my battery every 10 x days or will go flat and don’t want to go into another winter messing around with flat batteries
Imagine like ur good self is driving me nuts
Will then move onto the larger J fuses , have a small hook tool so I can remove the plastic covers
As always just a case of pinning it down but if I find anything will update this thread which I hope may inturn help ur goodself
Hope I’m not being rude did u zero the meter off the cable, then put the clamp meter on , or is it where ur using the test leads it wanders
The again
PS , on ur marks get set, goooooooooo
20th Aug 2018 7:39 am
BrettKaz
Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: Canberra
Posts: 209
Thanks forgot about the alarm thing. I am starting to give up on the issue being a q.draw because even at a 50mA q.draw a 95amp/hour battery should last 79 days. Starting to look at how often I am in and out of it (the 'camping' battery drain phenomenon) ... doing work on it ... leaving it unlocked overnite etc. So I have been looking at how it shuts down to a quiescent (I feel like a fake using that expression) state. In the wider arena some of the newer lux cars are running at 80mA and I can't imagine they have much more than 95A/h.
Seems pretty variable and still haven't quite managed to work out what is driving the variation. Pete mentioned the ignition position might shut it down sooner/differently (will investigate):
first 2 minutes 5-10A (until ICE shutdown)
next 8 minutes 5A (but variable)
next 20minutes 0.5A declining
I also found it snoozing once at 0.5A a couple of hours after shutdown and previously q.state? (but I had left the door open with the above procedure... poss. red herring)
20th Aug 2018 9:07 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Hi
Indeed battery should last a lot longer than a few weeks
Notice urs is the HSE whereas I’ve just got a base model
It done it before I fitted a new exide battery, also found when that goes flat it won’t allow me to bring the secondary leisure battery in through the T max remote
Determined to get to the bottom of it as it’s driving me insane , constantly worrying if I want to go out to ensure I plug the ctek in, found it a lot easier after installing a 12s socket on the front of the house so now just plug an extension lead in
Know I haven’t done a hard reset and wondering like rebooting a PC if it may help , suppose there’s nothing to loose,
Have u also replaced ur interior bulbs with LED ones plse
Must admit was surprised to notice where I don’t need some of the fuses fitted , haven’t got heated seats, heated screen , rear blower , etc etc
Later am going to treat myself to an oscilloscope, know it will take me a good while to try and understand one but see they can be a very useful tool
Plse let us know how U get on and of course will do the same if I find anything
20th Aug 2018 11:56 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
A battery reset is very unlikely to fix this.
An oscilloscope won't help with this.
Yes leave the door open, with the latch pressed in, to monitor glovebox fuses. (disable movement sensor)
They don't configure a fuse box for every model as this would be far more expensive than a couple of fuses and odd relay.
They probably do 1 for diesel, 1 for petrol, an American setup etc..
20th Aug 2018 12:20 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Many thks as always pete
That makes a lot of sense now ref the fuse box, making them up at the factory
Ah that’s great ref the alarm , so at least can then test the cabin fuses after I’ve done the main ones under the bonnet
Thks so much as always
20th Aug 2018 1:14 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Hope u don’t mind me asking , but been looking at current clamp meters
Wondering then if I connect it to my main battery lead via a multimeter to show me what the parasitic drain is , then using another multimeter on each fuse one by one to look which circuit is causing the issues , do u think that’s a better set up than using a cheaper styled clamp meter plse
was just wondering what members thoughts were plse
Many thks as always
20th Aug 2018 3:10 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
don't know how expensive that is.
I think I used a £10 clamp. But do spend a little more!
Its a good idea though, to measure at the battery and fuses at the same time, so you can see what's going on at the same time. Rather than chase something that doesn't exist at that time under varying conditions
Last edited by Pete K on 20th Aug 2018 10:25 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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