Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13597
Pete K wrote:
don't know how expensive that is.
I think I used a £10 clamp. But do spend a little more!
Its a good idea though, to measure at the battery and fuses at the same time, so you can see what's going on at the same time. Rather than case something that doesn't exist at that time under varying conditions
Many thks pete
Can get the clamps for £55 quid and adaptor for a few quid
Should arrive before the weekend
Last edited by gstuart on 20th Aug 2018 8:06 pm. Edited 3 times in total
20th Aug 2018 8:01 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13597
Robbie wrote:
I've had a quick skim through your efforts and it looks like a potential drain on the BCM. Most likely candidate is a corroded upper tailgate switch.
Then again, I am on a brace of prescription drugs and thinking is a bit difficult....
Hi Robbie
Thks for that and very interesting ref the tailgate switch
Will indeed update as I start going through the system of my findings
Thinking what’s that ,
Thks again
PS, hope ur on the mend ref the tablets
20th Aug 2018 8:04 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13597
Found an interesting video today actually seeing the J type fuses being tested and then using the voltage drop charts
Just put it here just in case it may be useful to anyone else for the future
Will also have the same set up using a current clamp attached to a multimeter then using another multimeter to test each fuse
Fingers crossed my new current clamp will arrive by the weekend
Last edited by gstuart on 8th Dec 2022 12:52 pm. Edited 1 time in total
21st Aug 2018 4:06 pm
BrettKaz
Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: Canberra
Posts: 209
Just checked a few scenarios concerning how the car goes to sleep. It's getting dark here and have to check some other scenarios but:
Unlock/lock 13minutes
Unlock/leave unlocked 17min
Ignition position II/lock 20mins
Ignition position I/lock 3.5 mins
BTW putting new batteries in helped my UNI-T. I now get relatively consistent readings. I had assumed it should read the same pos and neg and while it doesn't say in the manual you need to show a pos reading. Therefore I am on the money at 30mA for an HSE 08 and not looking any further for q.draws.
Best of luck
23rd Aug 2018 8:23 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13597
Hi Brett
That’s an interesting test
Great the new batteries worked better , as mines a base I’m looking for under 22 Ma
My new current clamp tester turned up, just waiting for an adaptor to plug into my multimeter, fingers crossed should be here today or Friday
Pleased urs is now resolved
Will indeed update the thread as and when I find anything , I’m even that sad I got a new pad to write all the readings down, I defiantly need to get out more
23rd Aug 2018 9:09 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13597
Finally got the adaptor for the current clamp , took a while to find
It’s now bloody raining
Hopefully will clear up later so can start
Even recharged all my batteries for my meters
25th Aug 2018 11:06 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13597
update
So started going through everything
The 0.40 M a is was a started with
I did try and put my multimeter in series by removing the batteries earth lead but the alarm wouldn’t arm so had to put the earth battery lead back on and alarm it, waited 30 x mins
After pulling fuses that I didn’t need being
F5
F7
F8
F15
F18
F22
Removed all the covers of the J type fuses and tested every single fuse including the mini fuses in the engine bays fuse box
Had zero on every single fuse
Now have 0.33Ma , so by removing those extra unwanted fuses has obviously taken off 0.7 ma
I haven’t done the inside fuses yet as it’s raining again and don’t want all the bonnet open or door
Battery was fully charged over night with a CTEK and voltage standing is 12.2 Vdc , so will recharge it and then get a reading after disconnecting the battery and then next day to see how it compares
I also with the engine running , i set the multimeter to AC put across pos and neg battery posts and got zero so I assume the alternators diode is ok
Just wondered what ur thoughts were please
29th Aug 2018 4:05 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13597
Plus just for info
This is the reading when first locked and interior lights go out
Will do another reading when it drops
29th Aug 2018 4:20 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13597
I’m more than likely to be completely wrong
Disconnected the alternator and dual battery system to see if it made any difference
This is soon as I’ve alarmed it , now for the waiting
After 20 mins
29th Aug 2018 4:35 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10359
So 0.33 is 330mA. Which is a significant amount. Wouldn't want that 24 hours a day.
I think looking at your table it should be nearer 22mA (or 0.02 on your display)
I would check your fuse voltage drop method to gain confidence.
Turn the headlights on.
There are 2 J fuses which do, the lights. FL15 FL16. Green. One of them should have a decent voltage drop.
measure it.
You have halogen headlights don't you.
110W (2x 55W bulbs)
--------
12V
= 9A
So when you convert the fuse voltage drop back to amps you should get in the ball park of 9A.
Don't rush to get into the glovebox area. It's not nice lol.
I believe most things go through the engine bay fuse box fuses first. So you should be able to detect something on one of the fuses under the bonnet. Spend more time here. (in comfort)
I don't have a lot of confidence of using the voltage drop method on the J fuses though. (for a small current drain)
So what you will need to do is check them and note any that are slightly suspicious. (post them here). Then you will need to remove the fuse and replace it with a loop of wire (spade terminals on the ends). The loop needs to be big enough for your clamp meter to go round.
Then let the car sleep, put the clamp on the battery lead so you can see it dropping.
Then measure the current going though the fuse wire loop. This will give an accurate reading.
Your looking for about 300mA or 0.3A
repeat on next suspicious J fuse
29th Aug 2018 5:45 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13597
Hi pete
Bless as always , will make some leads up in order I can remove the J fuses, have got plenty of spade crimp connectors and rolls of wire but don’t know where u get the white connectors that the J fuse plugs into
Would it be easier to say make up 15 x of them so can attached the clamp meter on each one without having to wait for it to go to sleep again
Currently the battery will last just over a week , it’s been like this since I bought it
I also removed the alternator and dual battery leads and didn’t make a blind bit of difference
Every single mini fuse and J fuse I tested across the back was zero , but will do as u suggest and make some J loops up
Ur not wrong there ref the glove box fuse box, blimey that’s tight
Seen the ones Robbie made , do u happen to know where to get the white connectors please
Thks so much for this and guiding me and will of course update u as I progress , got to get this resolved before the winter sets in , see ur well into ur electronics Pete ,
PS, apologises , yes halogen headlights , base model , only extra added is the dual battery T max system which I disconnected , no Bluetooth modules
29th Aug 2018 6:44 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10359
5 wire loops should be plenty.
I'm sure we had this conversation several months ago
Regarding the fuse holder.
1. You don't really need the fuse. you should be able to trust your D3 not to catch fire for 15 minutes!
2. If you want a fuse, it doesn't need to be J type. Use uses a common blade fuse holder with 30A fuse.
3. There is nothing special about a J fuse holder. 2 spade connectors will work well enough.
29th Aug 2018 6:55 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13597
Brilliant thks
Wouldn’t surprise me mate , I blame my memory
That would be easier using the spade fuses , , have a box of the mini fuses , should have enough crimp connectors , Male spade one end female the other
Don’t know if it would make any difference with readings but will ensure all the wires I make up are the same length
Thks pete will get them made up
29th Aug 2018 7:05 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13597
Forgot I’ve got some of these , can then just put Male spade connectors on the end to go into the fuse box , thks
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