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DISCO3.CO.UK > Technical (D4)

Help with my very poorly D4

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T3nn3nt

Member Since: 29 Mar 2018
Location: berkshire
Posts: 7

Hi all thank you for all the input!

Here is a run through of what has happened over the last couple of days!

On Tuesday night i disconnected the battery for about 40 minutes and reconnected, this made the fuel gauge work for around 3 minutes then stop, it also fixed the "misfire" (as you suggested SteveNorman)

So this meant i could get the car to Land Rover for them to plug the car in an reset the BMS and see whats up with it.

After the BMS reset they phoned to say that the Fuel gauge will need a new connectors and seal (in or on the tank) so i get them to do that while they have it.

I go to leave Land Rover happy i have (what i think is) a fixed car but as i get down the road i get coolant level light (which i know is the bottle/sensor) but also while driving a "normal ride height only" warning. apparently the only fault on their diagnostic was a fault with near side wing mirror.

My next step is to get my previous garage to plug the car back in to see if we have the same amount of faults and to swap the coolant bottle.

so hopefully the only odd warning we have left is the "normal ride height"

5th Apr 2018 9:32 pm

robpenrose

Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Surrey / SW London
Posts: 2136

2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Are you sure your alternator is ok? I was getting normal ride height only occasionally before my alternator packed up. I think the alternator was struggling to keep up with electrical demand on startup which in turn caused the compressor to run a bit slower and throw up the reservoir too slow to fill error.

I don't know this for sure, as the compressor was changed under warranty a few weeks before the alternator gave up for good, and left me stranded.

Current: D4 HSE
Previous: BMW Z4M Coupe
Previous: Land Rover Defender 90 CSW Td5
Previous: Land Rover Discovery Td5 ES

5th Apr 2018 10:00 pm

Redline

Member Since: 20 Jan 2018
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 141

2011 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Siberian Silver

Have you got anywhere with your fault?

The BMS reset has created far more stability but there is still a problem - somewhere.

After several weeks of measuring the voltage both with and with out the engine running I also bought a current clamp that reads to 1mA.

Putting that on the output from the battery to the fusebox I found that, as before, the alternator was failing to keep voltage up from cold when the heated screens were on (as they come on automatically).

By loading the loading the electrics I could see that the voltage was failing to get back up to 13.6V and above when just over 100A were being drawn. The alternator is 150A rated.

After 30 minutes following switching off there was only 30mA flowing in to the cars systems - bang on where it should be.

It seems to charge ok when not loaded. It runs about 14.8V when the battery is about 12.4V on start. It slowly decreases down to 14.3/14.4V after a long journey. The alternator is asked to provide a higher voltage after start up and this decreases the longer the car is run - thats to get as much charge back into the battery as quickly as possible to help on short runs.

The worrying thing was the battery even fully charged was running down from 12.6/12.7V to 12.2 to 12.4V overnight.

Put the current clamp on the input to the battery from the alternator (which I think also feeds the starter). Can see the current coming in as expected when the car is running. However, having left the car for 30 minutes to let things shut down, there was still several amps flowing back out of the battery towards the alternator!

That's going in to be looked at more closely and hopefully changed on Monday. Current : Discovery 4 HSE (2012 spec)
Current : BMW Z4 20i MSport
Current : BWM Z4 3.0SI Sport Auto
Previous : Freelander 2 HSE

28th Apr 2018 6:24 pm

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