Member Since: 19 Dec 2016
Location: Northampton
Posts: 14
Help with leak from \ near gaiter boot please!!
Hi all
Can anyone tell me what is going on here so I can sort asap
Thank you for your time !!
Post edited by the site administration team to offer a clue
25th Oct 2017 7:26 pm
Roker tree services
Member Since: 19 Dec 2016
Location: Northampton
Posts: 14
Here is the pic
25th Oct 2017 7:27 pm
Down&Dirty
Member Since: 17 Aug 2012
Location: Somewhere out back
Posts: 1287
Is this the pic
MY24 Defender 90 X-Dynamic HSE
MY18 Disco 5 HSE Santorini Black Now Gone.
25th Oct 2017 7:30 pm
Roker tree services
Member Since: 19 Dec 2016
Location: Northampton
Posts: 14
Thank you D&D
25th Oct 2017 7:31 pm
ostosix
Member Since: 19 Mar 2017
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 305
New gaitor req'd me thinks
25th Oct 2017 7:37 pm
Roker tree services
Member Since: 19 Dec 2016
Location: Northampton
Posts: 14
ok thanks! and i assume thats transmission fluid?
25th Oct 2017 7:42 pm
ostosix
Member Since: 19 Mar 2017
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 305
no it'll just be CV grease, you'll get some more with the new gaitor kit. If its not messing your drive up it'll be fine like for a few days. Its not an emergency job as such. Just get it booked in when you can.
25th Oct 2017 7:45 pm
df_tom
Member Since: 10 Mar 2017
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 127
You need a new gaiter.
Boot Kit TDR 500100
Hub Nut RFD 500020
Quick fix inbetween / on the go, will last some 1500 to 2000 klicks, no need to take out the driveshaft:
Do not drive around for too long with this broken gaiter. You will eventually lose all the grease, and then you need a new cv or a new driveshaft.
You may collect the grease from the inside of your wheel
AH, i just see, in your case you need to scrape it off the road, as it seems to be the inside gaiter that's broken
25th Oct 2017 8:12 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
There are gaiters out there that do not require disassembly - you cut the old one off and the new one fits over the shaft and you glue and bolt together. I believe that tests show that the join will not come undone once the glue has gone off
26th Oct 2017 8:53 am
df_tom
Member Since: 10 Mar 2017
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 127
The glue only type will not really last long enough. It will last to bring you home, though.
Just changed mine today. The second split-glue-together boot. Both lasted approx. 2000 km.
Glue and screw might not fit. Did you try them, globetrotter?
Now, the proper boot is some completely different story. The outer one is made of plastic, not rubber. Very sturdy. If you do this one, take the whole shaft apart, start from the inner joint, and fit the outer boot over the shaft. Boot kit contains both boots.
Forgot one part: once the shaft is out, change the driveshaft seal in the diff.
driveshaft seal TZB500100
Diff Oil 75W-90
Last edited by df_tom on 28th Oct 2017 8:48 am. Edited 1 time in total
27th Oct 2017 9:04 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
No have not had the need yet so only going on what I have read and of course viewed on YouTube
27th Oct 2017 9:45 pm
df_tom
Member Since: 10 Mar 2017
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 127
Well,
glue only split boot, as mentioned in the link to some internet marketplace, are great for the big trip. If a cv boot fails on you, it's a one hour job to fit the glue thing, and that will carry you to the next clean workshop or even home.
The glue-and screw type i only know from Pinzgauers and Haflingers, and these gaiters do have one significant difference: the don't rotate !!! I doubt they would survivr for long when they rotate, especially with big angle between the two parts of the driveshaft.
Also, on the outer boot, there might be some clearance issues vs. the wheel bearing bolts and the ABS sensor, maybe. Inside should be fine, if i remember correctly
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