Member Since: 17 Jul 2021
Location: The Empire
Posts: 174
Issues with Tow Bar
Hi All,
The tow bar isn’t locking in place the lock spins but stop halfway around, it’s unlocked, it seems the bolt isn’t sliding all the way I don’t really want to file the hole down, what should I do and what’s the normal fix here’s some photos.
Cheers,
Sol
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7th Nov 2023 5:21 pm
riverblanche
Member Since: 31 Aug 2010
Location: retford'ish
Posts: 2210
Hi,
I would be tempted to strip it, take the lock off and remove internals, check inside to see if the spring or small ball bearing is fouling, good clean and lubricate
just take care if not done before lots loose the small ball bearing
Last edited by riverblanche on 9th Nov 2023 7:06 pm. Edited 1 time in total
7th Nov 2023 8:58 pm
sol_stevo
Member Since: 17 Jul 2021
Location: The Empire
Posts: 174
I’ve now lost the spring to the ball bearing any idea where to get a replacement bone that I had from Halfords were strong enough
7th Nov 2023 11:33 pm
Kummu24
Member Since: 16 Feb 2013
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 373
Hi
Powerful UK do a kit which includes the spring, although I don’t know if they will sell separately. They have done a good YouTube refurb video too
I’ve walked this path myself before and got the advice I needed on here ….. Hope this helpsCorris Grey SDV6 D4 2015 HSE
Adriatic Blue TDV6 D3 2004 SE (Gone)
Grey Freelander 1 TD4 SE 2001 (Gone)
8th Nov 2023 12:31 am
sol_stevo
Member Since: 17 Jul 2021
Location: The Empire
Posts: 174
Hi mate, the springs gone still got the ball bearing, you have an idea on the size of the spring? PowerfulUK don’t sell the spring
8th Nov 2023 7:26 am
Kummu24
Member Since: 16 Feb 2013
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 373
Sorry, from memory I thought it included the spring
In terms of a source for a replacement springs I think this has been asked and not answered many times. In your shoes I’d be trying towbar manufacturers like Brinks or Towtrust etc to see if they can sell you a spring.
Failing that, I’d be visiting a decent old school engineering/ironmongery supplier to see if they can offer something that will fit the bill. We have one in my home town and its universally known as a place of last resort, They have just EVERYTHING in stock including the most bizarre and hard to find obscure items but selling so few and so rarely, their prices are just eye watering to cover the cost their holding of those items.
The ball bearing it holds is 6.35mm or 1/4” so the spring it sits in is likely to be the same. You then just have to find a length and, critically given its application, compressive strength that works.
If someone else is by chance in the process of refurbing theirs and could post up some spring measurements and pics, it would be a good datapoint for everyone’s future questions. As everyone warns the ball bearing is easily lost and the spring is probably nearly as easy to loseCorris Grey SDV6 D4 2015 HSE
Adriatic Blue TDV6 D3 2004 SE (Gone)
Grey Freelander 1 TD4 SE 2001 (Gone)
8th Nov 2023 2:31 pm
riverblanche
Member Since: 31 Aug 2010
Location: retford'ish
Posts: 2210
Hi,
sadly can not remember the spring size so would just be guessing
but
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9th Nov 2023 7:08 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1783
As said before, follow the video on diassembly and then reassembly. If you do not get it back correctly, the latch will not come out far enough. There are many ways to get it wrong, don't ask Once assembled correctly it works properly. Watch the spring and ball.
15th Nov 2023 10:15 am
KPTV8
Member Since: 05 Feb 2012
Location: Itinerant
Posts: 137
Hi, apologies if this sounds naive and trivial.
I hit a similar sounding problem - I found the stainless steel "tongue" on my towhook just wouldn't retract QUITE far enough for the wedge-shape hook forging to slot fully home up into its recess under my car's rear crossmember..
The solution was SO obvious I felt really dumb afterwards, losing an entire evening to the problem. The green rotating knob would turn PART way against its spring, but then to get it to turn to its FULL extent I had to PRESS the green knob (pressing along its axis of rotation) while also continuing to rotate it. I only realised returning to the problem next day, about that last bit - TWIST followed by PUSH + TWIST. Hum !!
After that it all worked beautifully, the stainless steel "tongue" withdrew fully into the hook forging, which in turn slotted fully up and home into the recess. Then, allowing the green knob to untwist under its internal spring, the entire assembly remained locked into place and has been perfect ever since.
I'd say it's obvious in hindsight how this is all meant to work, but the instructions I had didn't explain the "axial push" bit while rotating the green knob. I used to consider I had "mechanical intuition", but on this occasion I failed completely (initially at least !!).
I'm sure the "two-stage" action of the green knob (TWIST followed by PUSH + TWIST) implements a safety mechanism to prevent the hook forging from dropping out accidentally - but I've never REALLY worked out why the design is as it is.
Later that week I towed a trailer with 1-ton machine tool from Darlington to Edinburgh - no incidents or nasty surprises !!! (I should mention I'd installed the hook+plate towhook version with the two forward-facing "A" frame bars bolted to the chassis; I'd never trust a "push-and-lock" towhook on its own without reinforcement while towing a heavy load - TOO risky eh !!!
Cheers ))
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lots loose the small ball bearing 
Once assembled correctly it works properly. Watch the spring and ball.
))
