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Can you get in using the key
yes
63%
 63%  [84]
no
18%
 18%  [25]
yes but with difficulty
14%
 14%  [19]
I broke my key!
3%
 3%  [5]
Total Votes: 133

bbyer
 


Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 678

Canada 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverLR3
bits are probably out of sync

Refer to my post above.

Since the door locks and unlocks with the remote, I expect lack of use has "frozen" the mechanical bits or they are just out of sync. Just keep playing with rotating in the key hole and with the remote as well and perhaps you will get the bits back in sync.

Also sometimes the door locks get out of sync and it takes a few key fob pushbutton lock and unlock operations to get all back in sync - that may be what you were referring to.

If all else fails, you will have to remove the door card, (not easy), and try to get the rods lined up by hand.
 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.  
Post #139372621st Dec 2014 10:26 pm
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Copper
 


Member Since: 03 May 2015
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 14

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3
Key fob failure

Hi I am new to the forum and would like to get any advice on the dreaded double key fob failure. Both of mine failed recently and after getting the diagnostic man out he tells me both keys are fine but the RF receiver is showing a fault. The garage has checked the wiring to the receiver and fitted a new one, there is 12 v supply to the receiver but still its not working! The doors lock when you drive off and open and close on the button on the dash, any ideas?
  
Post #14678283rd May 2015 2:03 pm
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bbyer
 


Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 678

Canada 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverLR3
Corroded "phone" connector is probably the problem

Here is a number of links to where the problem probably is. The fix is relatively easy as well. A telephone like squeeze connector that LR uses has corroded internally. You have to find it, remove it and resplice.

I expect the links show the solution since both your key fobs do not work. If it was only one fob not working, then it could be a fob, but since both do not work, the fobs are probably OK.

This link as good pictures.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/201915...epair.html


A couple of D3 links.

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic103468.html

http://disco3.co.uk/forum/topic54235.html?...e+receiver

Another link.

http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f41/k...elp-28115/
 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.  
Post #14678903rd May 2015 4:20 pm
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Copper
 


Member Since: 03 May 2015
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 14

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Thanks BBYER I will get the garage to check the splice, I actually looked at the wiring the other day when all the wires were uncovered and there is no sign of water ingress or corrosion to any of the wires?
  
Post #14679343rd May 2015 5:42 pm
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bbyer
 


Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 678

Canada 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverLR3
Rear door lock buttons illuminate?

Quite often the wires look good going into the spice and they just pull out when slightly pulled. Other times they seem to hold but do not conduct.

Let us know what side you found the splices on or was there one on each side.

Also there are separate splices for the rear door lock button lights down there as well. As such, check and see if your rear door lock buttons illuminate when the dashlights are on; also the front door buttons as well - but they probably are OK, but maybe not the rears.
 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.  
Post #14679463rd May 2015 6:03 pm
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BLFarrar
 


Member Since: 02 Aug 2006
Location: Deepest, Dankest, Darkest, Dingiest......Le Halifax, West Yorkshire...with strong links to Ireland
Posts: 6222

France 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Lugano TealDiscovery 3
I realise this the D3/4 forum

But I have to do this on my daughters Freelander maybe every 3 weeks.....
Over about 16 days the alarm goes to sleep....& you can't use the keyless entry

The only thing I would add is.....
Deluge the key lock hole with graphite do lock lubricant at least once a year....it make s a difference you can feel when you turn the lock....
 BREXIT - done properly.
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Post #14679563rd May 2015 6:19 pm
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Copper
 


Member Since: 03 May 2015
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 14

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Hi bbyer If the connection is bad would you still get 12v going to the sensor?
  
Post #14680463rd May 2015 9:03 pm
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bbyer
 


Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 678

Canada 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverLR3
not all the time

Your question is I presume "if the key fob internal battery connection is intermittent, would the receiver located on the underside of the roof of the 3 still do what it is supposed to do - that is receive signal from the key fob and tell the door locks to lock or unlock?"

The short answer is not all the time.

The long answer is that intermittent means that the key fob sometimes transmits and sometimes not, depending upon whether the key fob battery connection is functioning or not. If the key fob battery stays connected long enough to send a signal then yes, but if not, no.

Also for the key fob battery to charge, the battery connection has to be working.

When the connection is open, no charge can enter the battery, nor can charge depart the battery to operate the transmitter.

If the question was "will there still be 12 volt going to the roof mounted receiver even when the key fob is not working, the answer is yes, there will be 12 VDC power into the roof mounted receiver as long as there is power in the vehicle battery.

If the question was "will door lock or unlock signal power exit the roof mounted receiver if there is 12VDC power going in, the answer is only when the receiver / transmitter is instructed to do so. That instruction would only come from a working key fob.

The link below is to a number of pdf files, wiring diagrams etc in my Album related to the locking system.

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=3813
 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.  
Post #14680743rd May 2015 10:52 pm
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Copper
 


Member Since: 03 May 2015
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 14

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Hi bbyer, remote not working update. So far we have found the splice and soldered the 3 wires together, replaced the remote sensor and there is 12v supply going to it through one of the wires. Tried both keys in the ignition with the engine running for a min of 6 minutes to sync to the new receiver and still both key fobs are not working. Any ideas gratefully received!!
  
Post #147213711th May 2015 5:02 pm
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bbyer
 


Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 678

Canada 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverLR3
two thoughts

If you still have the original receiver / transmitter perhaps plug it back in and see if there is any improvement. My experience is that the PCB stuff generally is OK and the problems are simple things like the wires and connectors - but near impossible to figure out.

I think the receiver / transmitter is just that and not an item that has to be programmed or synchronized when installed new, but I am not certain.

I think all the door lock rolling code logic is contained down in the PDB behind the passenger side fuse box but I might still try putting the old unit back in temporarily as it may be OK.

I assume both keys are still the originals that have always worked. It is good that you have two keys as both do not quit at the same time whereas if you only had one, then there would be another variable.

The second idea is to this time, search on the drivers side for the same splice you found on the drivers side.

I do not actually know if there is a splice on both sides but sometimes guys find the splice on the drivers or left side and sometimes on the passenger or right side.

The reason I am not certain is because some posts come out of the UK with the steering wheel on the right and other posts, from LHD areas.
 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.  
Post #147234111th May 2015 10:41 pm
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Copper
 


Member Since: 03 May 2015
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 14

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Hi bbyer, tried the old receiver and still no joy, one question though, should both the wires going to the receiver ( Green & Green/White) have 12v supply to them? the Green & White has but not the Green. We found the 3 wire connector, left hand side passenger seat which we have stripped and soldered. Does anyone have a indepth wiring diagram to upload? Many thanks.
  
Post #147251112th May 2015 12:35 pm
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Robbie
 


Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: Waiting for my old avatar to be allowed back... we miss her!
Posts: 17555

United Kingdom 2013 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Baltic BlueDiscovery 4

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Post #147251812th May 2015 12:46 pm
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bbyer
 


Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 678

Canada 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverLR3
Blue conductor maybe?

I looked for wiring diagrams additional to what is in my album and all that I found is the same as per Robbie above.

That drawing only shows two conductors, a green with white tracer plus a blue, but no solid green. Per below, the blue is the signal back to the CJB referred to below in what I copied from a LR pdf re the explanation of how the RF receiver operates.

The RF receiver converts the signals from the remote handset into digital messages and transmits them to the CJB (central junction box). The RF receiver is installed above the headlining, on the cross-rail between the top of the B pillars.
Operation of the RF receiver is powered by a permanent battery feed from the CJB (central junction box).


Regardless of colour, I do not think one would see a voltage on the "second" conductor with a normal voltmeter as it is apparently a "digital" signal - probably some kind of pulse rather than true digital but in any case, not power as we commonly know it.

Given that you found corroded wires on the passenger left side, I would then be digging thru the drivers right side now to see if there is a matching set of wires on that side as well. Hopefully there is and that finding and fixing them resolves the problem.

The jpg below is the passenger right side of a LHD 3 but perhaps that splice location also exists on the RHD models as well.
 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.  
Post #147255312th May 2015 2:24 pm
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