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silvertruck
Member Since: 15 Jun 2010
Location: Bath
Posts: 339
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Hi all, my D4 boot worked when I got it from a dodgy dealer over in Kent, two weeks later the catch stopped working, but still works with the fob. I checked the handle switch to find the space swimming, so have replaced the switch with a ford one, grafting it to the existing wires. The switch still doesn't operate the boot
Checking the voltage across the wires it seems to work fine as a switch, but it has only around 3v at the switch. Is this normal or should it have more? Next step will be remove the trim and the handle I guess, which looks like it is going to be a challenge.
Help appreciated.
Thanks
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21st May 2017 9:39 pm |
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BLFarrar
Member Since: 02 Aug 2006
Location: Deepest, Dankest, Darkest, Dingiest......Le Halifax, West Yorkshire...with strong links to Ireland
Posts: 6222
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....the brass inserts in the moulded plastic housing arent strong enough to hold when a tight screw is turned - the whole thing spins around.
The task for me was to break up the moulded plastic & fir the new switch I'd already got.
Yes - I did try using penetrating oil well beforehand. BREXIT - done properly.
Right now ...We need Government - not Politics
Save the Dipstick Flagbearer-keep it simple, less likely to fail campaign-agenda items:Starting Handles, Acetylene Lamps.
Founder: Dipsticks-R-Us Inc
D3 HSE-perfectly formed, passenger friendly...has real DIPSTICK
Jag XK-but sadly no DIPSTICK...HUGE design fault
FL2 has DIPSTICK..."real comfort in rear seats"
VW Golf wondermobile (?)..has real DIPSTICK
Morris Minor..original DIPSTICK technology..and a real KEY.
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21st May 2017 10:28 pm |
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silvertruck
Member Since: 15 Jun 2010
Location: Bath
Posts: 339
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looking at the bolts I can see on the tailgate it looks like they have been attempted to be removed already. ...... not looking forward to that, hence the question......plus if it wrecks the unit ££££££??
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22nd May 2017 8:16 am |
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silvertruck
Member Since: 15 Jun 2010
Location: Bath
Posts: 339
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having lived with this for months, finally got around to fixing the switch. The loom for the switch is actually connected into a block inside the tailgate inner cover, so easy to get to without removing the handle assembly. Lift the bottom left (looking from the back to the front of the car) corner of the plastic cover and there it is. Thanks to Phil at Beckington Motors for pointing this out!
The two cables that feed the switch are the thinnest black ones bottom left and top right of the connector feed. if you look closely at the cables it is obvious which are the switch ones as they are the thinnest and aren't coloured. I found that the wires had lost their conductivity (broken) between the connector block and the switch (too thin cable). Replaced the wires with heavier duty cable into the block and fed them through the bootlid into the switch area to the switch and we have a working switch. This is fiddly in getting them through the gland in the bootlid, but can be done without dissembling everything.
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12th Oct 2017 9:02 am |
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